Hey Dave, I'm the rattle guy, not the creak guy! What do I look like over here!?
Seriously, what I would probably do to start off with is climb in the backseat with the car idle and off, and press and poke around the deck area to see if you can locate the general source of the noise. If that fails, have a friend or significant other ride in the back while you drive and see if s/he can locate the source of the noise for you. Then start attacking it.
I, too, am extremely sensitive to every little rattle, creak, groan, squeak, whir, whiz, bang, screech, pop, and kerplunk. Why can't I have a silent car?
[Are you sure it's not your suspension?]
__________________ Brian - CCA #273611
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Redshift - 1 to 5 , how do you rate the work required to take out the seat and shelf? I have broken grill clips bouncing around like you, but I haven't felt the desire to take the deck apart because it sounds like a lot of work.
Redshift - 1 to 5 , how do you rate the work required to take out the seat and shelf? I have broken grill clips bouncing around like you, but I haven't felt the desire to take the deck apart because it sounds like a lot of work.
I'll rate it a
(that's a "2 of 5, but sort of a pain in the arse")
Not suspension. Thought perhaps somebody else might have had this plastic creaking. The thing about a silent car is its only a matter of time before the next rattle, creak, groan, squeak, whir, whiz, bang, screech, pop, or kerplunk..
Not suspension. Thought perhaps somebody else might have had this plastic creaking. The thing about a silent car is its only a matter of time before the next rattle, creak, groan, squeak, whir, whiz, bang, screech, pop, or kerplunk..
Is it possible that this creak is coming from the roof/headliner just above and behind your head? I have a creak noise coming from the back left corner of the sunroof/headliner junction. It is there all the time in cold weather (below 55F or so), but in the summer I never hear it. Other than that, my car is extremely quiet in terms of noises...haven't had door seal noises (yet) either.
__________________ Current stable:
2001 M5 LeMans Blue/Silverstone
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Brake ducts opened
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2003 330i ZHP 6MT Imola Red/Black Alcantara
2006 330i sport 6MT Electric Red/Black
2001 Audi S4 6MT Silver/sport Alcantara
1996 Volvo 850R wagon
Is it possible that this creak is coming from the roof/headliner just above and behind your head? I have a creak noise coming from the back left corner of the sunroof/headliner junction. It is there all the time in cold weather (below 55F or so), but in the summer I never hear it. Other than that, my car is extremely quiet in terms of noises...haven't had door seal noises (yet) either.
Yup, could be Chuck, the creak sounds like its coming from a high point in the cabin, although it sounds a little farther back toward the back window. I thought I'd first take the lazy-man's route and see if 'rattle guy Brian' or anyone else might have already chased this one down before endeavoring to chase it down meself... :p Will dutifully report back if I find it.
Is it possible that this creak is coming from the roof/headliner just above and behind your head? I have a creak noise coming from the back left corner of the sunroof/headliner junction. It is there all the time in cold weather (below 55F or so), but in the summer I never hear it. Other than that, my car is extremely quiet in terms of noises...haven't had door seal noises (yet) either.
I think it's the insulation material between the headliner and the roof; something soft is expanding and contracting with the temp. My headliner rattled at one time until the dealer fixed it by inserting an additional cloth layer between the roof and the headliner. Now, it creaks a little, but in a different place.
Edit: maybe also take out the motion sensor cover and jiggle stuff around to see if that's the problem.
Pic#1: First I removed the seat bottom by just pulling up at the front edges. It comes out easily. Put something over the large metal retaining tabs and then fold the seats down. It's easier to pop off the seat by tugging near the clips. Also, I left the seat there, but moved it forward so that I did not need to cover the clip to protect the fold down seat.
Pic#2: Remove the side cushions by taking out the 10mm (I think?) nut and...
Pic#3: ...pulling out at the top until you hear it release, then slide it up and out. It's easier to take out the side cushion by tugging near the clip.
Pic#4: Remove the C-pillar alcantara covers by popping the reading lamp module out from the top and disconnecting the wiring.
Pic#5 & 6: Then remove the two 8mm nuts and pull the C-pillar away from the outside of the car (there are two plastic push-pins holding it in after you get the 8mm nuts out) and then towards the front of the car. Don't pull too hard but pull hard enough to get it out.
Pic#7 & 8: Remove the plastic trim that connects the rear deck to the car with 6 plastic push-pin type connectors. Be careful not to break them.
Pic#9: I should add to Redshift's instruction that you need to loosen the lock for the folding seat in order to take out the plastic trim mentioned above (technically called "rear cross member cover"). You'll need an 8mm hex wrench. I assume this only applies to folding seats.
Pull the rear speaker grilles out. Be very careful - but I suspect if something is not already broken, now is the time it will break. The attachment clips are not intuitive, so just try to work them out slowly and carefully and without much force using your fingers - work your way around the grille until at least a portion of it comes out, then keep going until it's fully removed. I did not need to remove the speaker grilles.
My car has the baby-seat tie-downs so I removed those next. Pop off the plastic cap with a flat-blade, then remove the 13mm bolts using your socket. The entire assembly (tie-down with bolt and several washers) pulls out all at once. Place it aside for later.
I should also add to Redshift's instruction that you need to remove the headrest and it's support bars by tugging it up and out. They may come out separately.
Pic#10: My car has no sunshade so this part also might differ. You may need to disconnect and unbolt your sunshade if you have one.
There are three screws.
My next step was to pull the deck out. I pulled slightly upward and straight toward the front of the car. Working back and forth from side to side - it eventually will come out. The seatbelts will still be slotted through the rear deck itself so I just laid mine down in front of the folded down seat opening and worked above it. Slightly awkward, but I'm not old enough to know better.
For rear sunshade option, make sure to lift the deck high enough so that the sunshade screws clear the baby seat lock.
Pic#11: ...You will then see the dark gray foam I mention above. It easily lifts upward and you can then put some felt or soft velcro under there to keep it from rattling.
Notice the thin white layer as shown by the red arrow. This layer is as hard as plastic. As stated by Redshift, this is the culprit. It rattles against the sheet metal on the rear deck. I bought two 17' rolls of high density window foam tape and separated the white layer from the sheet metal. I used about 20'.
Reverse the above steps and you're done.
Unbelievable...there is absolutely no rattle with the sunshade up or down. It is a huge relief to not hear the rattle. Don't waste your money on Dynomat sound insulation sheets.
I also thought about removing the six sub screws and screw the subs in from underneath so that I can easily take them out anytime I want to replace them. But after hearing the subs without the deck rattles, I didn't think it was worth it to upgrade my subs. The subs themselves do rattle if you really really blast it, but I never go that high.
It took me a little over 5 hours to do everything, including stops at a couple auto parts store and Home Depot. Damn Home Depot customers leave their carts everywhere. I saw my car get dented by a cart again - the second time at the same store.
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We are back on this subject again so here's my input.
Similar to you folks, I had creaks and rattles on my rear deck, especially when the subwoofer is working hard. I decided to do the fix together when I upgrade my rear speakers. Here's my summary:
The rattles on mine came from:
Subwoofer bolts were loose. I remove the bolts, applied locktite. Rattles are gone.
I checked the rear window shade. Holding nuts were loose too. Remove nuts, applied lock tite, no more rattles.
Also applied non skid filler in between rear shelf and top part of the shelf.
No more rattles in the back!
I also upgraded my rear speakers and installed tweeters. Here are some photos. Hope that helps.
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Dan
Tubi Rumore exhaust, BBS RGR rims; Polk Audio Tweeters, Focal Speakers; Video Interface Module + Panasonic DVD Player + Integrated 120 gig Video iPod; 8000K low beams, Angel iBrights, Valentine 1 Radar Detector; Laser Interceptor Laser Jammer; All LED interior lights, LED footwell lights, LED trunk lights, Ultimate Cup Holders, face lifted Front and rear LCI LED turn signals; 3rd brake light LED flasher, Polished piano black front kidney grills and side grills; charcoal filter delete; ash tray delete; Auxiliary Input upgrade; LED license plate lights; RPI Ram Air Scoops + Block off plates; BMC Air Filters; Glove compartment LED light; Carbon Fiber steering wheel trim. Etc. Next is Alpine back up camera.
a_ok2me - Thanks for the great write up and pics to go with. I have just recently been hearing an annoying creak from the back area near the speakers. Trying to figure out if it's coming from the speaker, the liner, some loose part, or even the suspension (installed PSS9's about 2 months ago). I most likely will use your write up to figure this thing out. Thanks!!!
to 5 
, how do you rate the work required to take out the seat and shelf? I have broken grill clips bouncing around like you, but I haven't felt the desire to take the deck apart because it sounds like a lot of work.
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