OK operating under the theory that there ARE bent AND water injestion, then maybe this is a post for you to review- Help....possible flooded motor....please advise I would feel comfortable PM'ing RRoberts for more info.
I wish I had the tech knowledge to help out, but I think any additional info you can give about your symptoms/tests/whatever would be helpful to all those reading.
Now please understand that this is just my personal opinion and not based on what test info/symptoms you have provided, okay? If this were me, and looking at this kind of major work estimate, I would very likely extract my car from the current dealership as politely, but as firmly as possible. Have they given you a time when the rep will look over your car? I'm under the impression you have not had any other work done at this dealer before or don't have confidence in them, is this right? If you feel the need to offer reasons, use anything get you car so you can take it to another BMW dealership w/o them fussing about the "free" clutch work they already did (like it's closer to home, or work, I need to get another estimate or my spouse will kill me, I always get second opinions, whatever). The rep's ruling should be good at any BMW dealership anyway, I would think. Maybe I'm panicking here, but I think you need to get as much info as possible before the repair?
Good luck!
Anita
Anita,
Interesting thread. I need to gather all of the facts before I am able to decide what may be the best avenue. I would prefer to take it to individual shop and not the dealer, but then again if BMW picks up a large piece of the cost I have to consider that as well.
Time will tell.
Mark
BTW - the dfealer gave me a X3 to drive and I am impressed by how it handles. Ok, not in terms of the M5, but not bad for what it is.
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I don't know anything about the water issue but, your tapping sound seems identical to mine whem I had the problem.
There are 16 connecting rods.
I would be shocked if BMWNA did not pick up half the tab and I must disagree some with Lscman to a degree - it all depends on the tech doing the work on the car AND the dealership.
Again, board members in NC know how good Leith is and my tech Nathan, tore down MANY engines not just BMW's so I had the utmost confidence in him.
I swear if you weren't so far away, I guarantee you that they would lobby for you and do a great job as well.
My S/A is a member of this board - name is Matt Moody - great guy and if you'd give him a call and mention my name - Tom Ranck - he can tell you all the details if your local dealer doen't want to step up to the plate for you.
Sounds like your problem is very similar to mine,
If a connecting rod IS tapping, your crank is toast too - other members will agree on this - make certain that they spec the crank because if they DO try and cut costs and leave the old crank in, you'll be looking at another major job very soon.
One more thing, I definitely would not drive the car like it is - the rod could easily go through the block (at least that's what one of the techs said) and then you're sunk.
New engine - $20,000 to $25,000
Leith's number is - 919-876-5432 or, 1-800-763-0057.
Mah, one more thing and you probably already know this but, if you are not a member of BMWCCA, join now - it's like $40 per year and you get an automatic 15% discount on all parts and labor at the dealership plus, you get a subscription to Roundel magazine which is practically worth the $40 separately.
As other NC members will attest, Leith's service dept. is very honest and more than fair.
Damn right! Leith BMW service is awesome...by far the best BMW service department I've experienced in 26+ years of BMW driving and one of the reasons my wife wanted to get a new E90 recently (awesome car by the way).
Chuck
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Hmm, something sounds very fishy. If you ingested enough water to bend a rod, not to mention several, you will know immediately because the engine will immediately stall. The fact that you were hearing tapping sounds that got louder under load sounds an awful lot like detonation, which is can definitely cause low compression.
Are the low compression cylinders adjacent to one another? That would suggest a blown head gasket. Did the technician try adding a teaspoon of oil into the low compression cylinders and repeat the compression test? That will give you an idea of whether you are dealing with something like bad piston rings vs. something like damaged valves.
PS, anyone know if our engines are interference or non-interference design?
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