OK, I've done a bit of searching on the audio upgrade topic, and it seems a lot of the threads are a bit dated, so initiating a new one so more people can chime in share their thoughts and experience.
Here is what I would like to do - upgrade my sound quality, without going way overboard, which really means keeping my stock amp while upgrading my front speakers and tweeters, as well as my subs (will leave rear speakers off the table for the time being). I do not have the M-Audio, so I find my sound particualry lacking.
Based on some preliminary research, I see a lot of folks swear by the MB QUART RSB215s, so that is among the considerations. One Boardmember recently upgraded to the Boston Acoustics S55 5-1.4'' 2-way speakers and the Polk db1000 1'' dome tweeters. He didn't do anything to his subs in the trunk as he has the M-Audio package, but claimed the difference was night and day. I am thinking of popping in two 10'' Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1, these are open air subwoofers. Any other options?
So a few questions (I think all are yes, but just verifying):
1). Do all Beasts come with DSP?
2). What is the final verdict - can a non-M-audio equippped car be retrofitted (should I find an inexpensive used set)?
3). For the non-M audio cars, is fitting in a 10'' sub like the Infinity above a plug-and-play, or do I have to make a proper housing for it (not sure of the non-M audio cars have 10'' speakers [Nokia?]
Would be great to hear people's thoughts on the most optimal speaker/woofer combo upgrade while keeping stock amp, including weather free-air woofers is a good idea.
So a few questions (I think all are yes, but just verifying):
1). Do all Beasts come with DSP?
2). What is the final verdict - can a non-M-audio equippped car be retrofitted (should I find an inexpensive used set)?
3). For the non-M audio cars, is fitting in a 10'' sub like the Infinity above a plug-and-play, or do I have to make a proper housing for it (not sure of the non-M audio cars have 10'' speakers [Nokia?
Cheers
1. No, if you have it, it's in the menu
2.If you want M audio you can get it, but spend that money on a full upgrade.
3. Infinity makes some serious high quality crap that is sold at walmart.
My suggestion, take say 2g to 2500 bucks and upgrade everything. Dump any and all stock peices.
__________________
2003 LeMans Blue Bmw M5-Stoptech 4 wheel brakes, Eibach sway bars, Bilstein PSS9 coilovers, Dinan Brake ducts, UUC short shifter, UUC trans mounts, Dinan Clutch and flywheel.Sirus Radio, Dinan strut brace
I spoke with a store manager at Myer Emco about this about 4 weeks ago. His thoughts after looking at my car was that it is very hard and expensive to do a complete upgrade without touching the stock head unit because it has DSP and Nav. He said it can be done but will be very costly.
So instead he recommended upgrading the speakers, get a new amp for them, and pop out the subs in the back and he can custom fit 3 JL Audio subs back there but in a nicely enclosed box. He said the subs that came with the car are not bad and to just put 2 JL audio subs back there will have similar results to stock that is why he suggested 3. All this could be done according to him for $2Gs.
The speakers are obviously very upgradable and definately should be done. Please stay away from the Infinity kappas, like the other member posted they are not of high quality at all. I had them in high school in my Honda Civic and can vouch that they are crap. Stick to MB Quarts, JL Audio and Boston AC.
My suggestion:
Head Unit - Leave it
Speakers - MB Quarts, Boston AC
Amp - JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, possibley MTX
Subs - JL Audio (2 - 3)
Estimated Price ~ $2000
Other than electronics for the M I have a weak spot for Alpine electronics (primarily head units and Mobile TVs). I have used them for years and love thier layout and quality but it doesn't fit or look good IMO in the M.
Good Luck
__________________
08 GL 320 CDI
95 Nissan Pathfinder (winter beater)
03 M5 Titanium Silver; Grey/black Interior
Mods:
Active Autowerke cold air intake w/ Brake Duct Cooling
UUC Evo III Short Shifter Kit w/DSSR
Supersprint Exhaust System
X-center pipe
IATS Relocation sensor
ShadowTech” DME reprogramming (i.e PowerChip 93, DA tuned)
Valentine V1 (hardwired
StealthOne display
Last edited by bimmer23; 18th October 2005 at 21:41.
I spoke with a store manager at Myer Emco about this about 4 weeks ago. His thoughts after looking at my car was that it is very hard and expensive to do a complete upgrade without touching the stock head unit because it has DSP and Nav. He said it can be done but will be very costly.
So instead he recommended upgrading the speakers, get a new amp for them, and pop out the subs in the back and he can custom fit 3 JL Audio subs back there but in a nicely enclosed box. He said the subs that came with the car are not bad and to just put 2 JL audio subs back there will have similar results to stock that is why he suggested 3. All this could be done according to him for $2Gs.
The speakers are obviously very upgradable and definately should be done. Please stay away from the Infinity kappas, like the other member posted they are not of high quality at all. I had them in high school in my Honda Civic and can vouch that they are crap. Stick to MB Quarts, JL Audio and Boston AC.
My suggestion:
Head Unit - Leave it
Speakers - MB Quarts, Boston AC
Amp - JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, possibley MTX
Subs - JL Audio (2 - 3)
Estimated Price ~ $2000
Other than electronics for the M I have a weak spot for Alpine electronics (primarily head units and Mobile TVs). I have used them for years and love thier layout and quality but it doesn't fit or look good IMO in the M.
Good Luck
You can leave the stock head, and get the JL audio converter and get a clean signal that way.
__________________
2003 LeMans Blue Bmw M5-Stoptech 4 wheel brakes, Eibach sway bars, Bilstein PSS9 coilovers, Dinan Brake ducts, UUC short shifter, UUC trans mounts, Dinan Clutch and flywheel.Sirus Radio, Dinan strut brace
Strong words aganist the Infinity Kappa Perfects (the Perfects are allegedly even better than the Kappas - but then again, this is all according to Crutchfield, that is what they recommended for the Beast, but I am sure that's what they have in stock, hence their bias...)
I have Infinities as my home entertainment center and I am not crazy about them, except for the center channel. I have Velodyne as my sub and that makes a difference and compensates for the lack of base in the Infinity front standing speakers, so I can see why for car audio the Infinity brand is not well regarded (for subs at least).
As far as the three JL woofers, are they 10''s? People seem to be holding conflicting views what's better - two 12''s or three 10''s?
He said the subs that came with the car are not bad and to just put 2 JL audio subs back there will have similar results to stock that is why he suggested 3.
Good Luck
Is he just saying put the subs in, running off the stock amp? In that case, yes. But two JL's with a dedicated sub amp would rock the heck out of the car. Three is overkill.
He is what I'm in the process of doing. Phase one is to put a JL 12w3 with a JL 500/1 amp fed from an Audio Control LC6. I built a box and mounted the amp last week. I just have to wire it this weekend. If that doesn't do the job (which I'm fairly confident it will), I will then upgrade the speakers to the Boston Pro's I have sitting in the basement. In addition, I'll hook up my Soundstream 800.5 to run the components. If that doesn't do it, I'm ripping out the entire system - nah, I'm not going to do that. Seriously, I've read every thread about audio on every board and the conclusion with DSP cars is to just add the sub and sub amp first. It's the best bang for your buck. You won't win any sound competitions but it will be satisfying none the less.
__________________ The Car: 2002 Alpine White ///M5 / Lemans Blue extended (sport) leather / aluminum trim The Upgrades: Dinan Stg. 1 / Dinan RSB / TCD Sway Bar Brackets / UUC Evo III SSK / UUC DSSR / UUC Tranny mounts / MKIV Nav Unit / JL 500.1 Amp / JL 12w6v2 Sub
Strong words aganist the Infinity Kappa Perfects (the Perfects are allegedly even better than the Kappas - but then again, this is all according to Crutchfield, that is what they recommended for the Beast, but I am sure that's what they have in stock, hence their bias...)
I have Infinities as my home entertainment center and I am not crazy about them, except for the center channel. I have Velodyne as my sub and that makes a difference and compensates for the lack of base in the Infinity front standing speakers, so I can see why for car audio the Infinity brand is not well regarded (for subs at least).
As far as the three JL woofers, are they 10''s? People seem to be holding conflicting views what's better - two 12''s or three 10''s?
Well I know for home audio Infinity can hold thier own. My dad has some and they sound pretty good but I know for the audio stuff they are not as terriible as I might have said but against the competition they are not even close. Sure if you put them in the car they wuld sound better than the stock but knowing that you were just a few bucks shy of getting better quality stuff would annoy me.
The JL woofers suggested was 10". I believe having 2 12" would be just too bassy whereas the the 10" would have some good base but would be a better punch rather than a long thud that you will get from the 12s. It is similar reason why some prefer not necessarily for the M but other cars 8" as oppose to 10" woofers for that quick rapid hitting bass rather than a drawn out bass sound.
So my suggestion was for the 10". Of course if your goal is the shake the block and all the mods fom your car then 3 - 4 12" might do the trick, just ask Remey from Unique Whips (HA HA).
But seriously though I think the 3 10" JL's would do just fine. I would like to do this setup but have a performance mod bug following me every where I go, even to bed.
__________________
08 GL 320 CDI
95 Nissan Pathfinder (winter beater)
03 M5 Titanium Silver; Grey/black Interior
Mods:
Active Autowerke cold air intake w/ Brake Duct Cooling
UUC Evo III Short Shifter Kit w/DSSR
Supersprint Exhaust System
X-center pipe
IATS Relocation sensor
ShadowTech” DME reprogramming (i.e PowerChip 93, DA tuned)
Is he just saying put the subs in, running off the stock amp? In that case, yes. But two JL's with a dedicated sub amp would rock the heck out of the car. Three is overkill.
He is what I'm in the process of doing. Phase one is to put a JL 12w3 with a JL 500/1 amp fed from an Audio Control LC6. I built a box and mounted the amp last week. I just have to wire it this weekend. If that doesn't do the job (which I'm fairly confident it will), I will then upgrade the speakers to the Boston Pro's I have sitting in the basement. In addition, I'll hook up my Soundstream 800.5 to run the components. If that doesn't do it, I'm ripping out the entire system - nah, I'm not going to do that. Seriously, I've read every thread about audio on every board and the conclusion with DSP cars is to just add the sub and sub amp first. It's the best bang for your buck. You won't win any sound competitions but it will be satisfying none the less.
Yes he was talking about having a separate amp for the subs and he did say 3 would do the trick. I am just the messenger though so I really don't know how it will sound but if 2 can work then that is even better on the pocket but i'm sticking with JLs.
__________________
08 GL 320 CDI
95 Nissan Pathfinder (winter beater)
03 M5 Titanium Silver; Grey/black Interior
Mods:
Active Autowerke cold air intake w/ Brake Duct Cooling
UUC Evo III Short Shifter Kit w/DSSR
Supersprint Exhaust System
X-center pipe
IATS Relocation sensor
ShadowTech” DME reprogramming (i.e PowerChip 93, DA tuned)
Is he just saying put the subs in, running off the stock amp? In that case, yes. But two JL's with a dedicated sub amp would rock the heck out of the car. Three is overkill. 
Linear Mode
