Car not starting P0335 after clutch install - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 24 Old 13th May 2017, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
Slick_m5
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Car not starting P0335 after clutch install

Changed the clutch along with all seals, fuel filter and front crankshaft seal. Battery has been on a tender for 5 months and I tried starting it and it wouldn't. Battery is dead. I tried jumping and it just turns over. I checked the codes and P0335 popped up. I can hear the fuel pump turning on. Did the code pop on because of the dead battery from the first initial startup and should I just replace the battery? Or is the sensor really bad? Chime in if you had this issue. I don't think I messed with timing or anything in the front. Any advice is appreciated.
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post #2 of 24 Old 13th May 2017, 06:30 AM
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Check the rear Cps sensors make sure you didn't break any of them

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post #3 of 24 Old 13th May 2017, 06:40 AM
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Until you get a battery it is moot likely. That code does not mean it is the sensor you might have pinched a wire. You will have to check everything including the distance off the flywheel. It might throw that code if it is not reading the sensor. If the sensor is too far away from your new flywheel it may send no signal rather than a weak one.
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post #4 of 24 Old 13th May 2017, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sailor24 View Post
Until you get a battery it is moot likely. That code does not mean it is the sensor you might have pinched a wire. You will have to check everything including the distance off the flywheel. It might throw that code if it is not reading the sensor. If the sensor is too far away from your new flywheel it may send no signal rather than a weak one.
I was messing around with the pulse sensor and even replaced it with one from another transmission and still no luck. Both had no washer or shims so it's kinda hard to check the clearance between the sensor and flywheel.
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post #5 of 24 Old 13th May 2017, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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Check the rear Cps sensors make sure you didn't break any of them
Is it possible the bellhousing could even reach those sensors? Transmission went in pretty smooth. I'll have to check in the morning when daylight approaches.
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post #6 of 24 Old 13th May 2017, 09:28 AM
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How is it hard? You remove the sensor measure the distance from where the sensor bares to the flywheel. You measure the sensor from where it bares to the tip and subtract that number from the first. It is hard if you don't have tools but even monkeys use sticks. Stick a stick in the hole until it touches the flywheel scribe a mark where the sensor bares, hold that next to the sensor measure the difference.

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post #7 of 24 Old 13th May 2017, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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How is it hard? You remove the sensor measure the distance from where the sensor bares to the flywheel. You measure the sensor from where it bares to the tip and subtract that number from the first. It is hard if you don't have tools but even monkeys use sticks. Stick a stick in the hole until it touches the flywheel scribe a mark where the sensor bares, hold that next to the sensor measure the difference.
You guys really give that constructive criticism on this forum. I guess I'll have to dish it out since this is the only place to get my questions answered. What I was referring to was that both sensors sat the same distance from the flywheel. A few thousands of an inch away. I brought up the sensor dilemma meaning if it sat too close I would shim it to pull it back some. Can you tell me if one sensor looks bad from the pics or what readings should it draw on a multimeter.
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post #8 of 24 Old 14th May 2017, 03:24 AM
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I forget what the distance is but it is small and needs to be in the range or no go. In the second pic it looks like that one has been touching the flywheel but hard to tell from a pic.

This is not magic it is only your input that will resolve the issue. You have the car in front of you. On that point do you remember the dowel that lines up the flywheel correctly? Do you specifically remember doing that in the install, that is the most common error.

Just since, it is also common to post the definition for the code so someone trying to help does not have to go to the extra effort to look it up. You have to give to receive. Now that we have that out of the way lets get on with trying to figure what might be wrong. Do you have a volt meter? Do you know how to get to the pins on the DME? You need to check the wires first, find the pin on the DME that relates to the Crank sensor and check it on OHMS. I can look up the pin outs for you.
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post #9 of 24 Old 14th May 2017, 03:50 AM
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post #10 of 24 Old 14th May 2017, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick_m5 View Post
You guys really give that constructive criticism on this forum. I guess I'll have to dish it out since this is the only place to get my questions answered. What I was referring to was that both sensors sat the same distance from the flywheel. A few thousands of an inch away. I brought up the sensor dilemma meaning if it sat too close I would shim it to pull it back some. Can you tell me if one sensor looks bad from the pics or what readings should it draw on a multimeter.
The one on the bottom looks like it might have made contact with the flywheel, but is that the new one or old one? Been a few years since I've pulled mine out...
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