Looking for Feedback on Clutch DIY & Part list - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 18 Old 18th March 2017, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
Eurosapien
Member, Sport: On DSC: On (>100 posts)
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 107
Thanks: 3
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Looking for Feedback on Clutch DIY & Part list

Hello all, I'm replacing my clutch soon and really need some feedback on my parts list from an
experienced member. Please let me know if I'm missing anything and/or any input on the clutch/flywheel setup I have chosen:


1. JB Racing Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel

2. South Bend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch Kit

3. Slave Cylinder

4. Hydraulic Clutch Line

5. Guibo (Flex Disk)

6. Clutch Fork Lever

7. Clutch Fork Pivot Pin (Metal)

8. Rear Crankshaft Cover - With Seal and flange gasket

9. Driveshaft Centering Sleeve

10. Driveshaft Center Mount

11. Pilot Bearing

12. Throwout Bearing Guide Tube (Do I need to replace this?)

13. Polyurethane Transmission Mount Set - Street (ECS Brand, UUC better?)

14. Also I ordered the E60 545i SSK Kit! Would UUC be better?


Couple Questions:


  • Does anyone strongly recommend a specific trans fluid? I recently did Royal Purple but now it seems to grind more. I'm considering Redline MTL 75w80

  • Is it necessary to replace the trans to engine bolts? And to confirm they are T55 ?

  • Will I need to drain the diff when I remove the drive-shaft? I plan on resealing it sometime later AND would rather not address it at the same time as the clutch since its my first time doing a clutch change.

  • One more thing, I came across this gasket, 11141405969. It is the 'Rear Coolant Cover Gasket', and is located above the rear main seal. Seems like the only way to every replace it is to drop the trans. Has anyone experienced leaking from here? Just want to avoid draining the coolant if i don't need to.


Thanks for reading this and any input would really help, this is the biggest repair that I'm attempting and don't want to botch it. I did as much research as I could before starting this thread.
Eurosapien is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 Old 18th March 2017, 09:01 AM
aligoodn
Member, Sport: Off DSC: On (>50 posts)
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Augusta, GA
Age: 30
Posts: 67
Thanks: 1
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
Garage
As far as your questions go,

1. I run royal purple synchromax with no issues or grinding (160k miles on transmission)
2. Not necessary to replace the trans to engine bolts, they are two different sizes though. The two on the upper bell housing are smaller IIRC. If you're going to work on your own car, just go ahead and get a whole set of torx bits.
3. No need to drain the diff to replace the driveshaft. The CV on the rear of the driveshaft bolts onto a mating flange on the diff that then goes through the pinion shaft seal. Recommend knocking the studs out of the driveshaft CV before installation to make it a lot easier to get in without pinching the CV boot.
4. You are correct about the gasket, replacement is impossible without removing the flywheel. I replaced mine for peace of mind, but there were no signs of leakage. I would recommend a pressure test before installing your flywheel/clutch to make sure you don't have any issues.

I assume you are aware of the chatter you're going to get with a lightweight flywheel. If you're not supercharged, I'd recommend the OEM flywheel with the south bend stage 2 daily. You can find the LuK DMFs for ~$350 if you shop around. I wouldn't bother replacing the clutch fork and the guide tube only needs to be replaced if its damaged, mine wasn't at 160k so I didn't bother. You're going to have to pull the driveshaft to do all this anyways, so depending on your mileage you may as well pick up a rebuild one. Driveshaft Specialist Inc has been used by many people on this board as well as myself and they are good quality for money.
aligoodn is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to aligoodn For This Useful Post:
Eurosapien (19th March 2017)
post #3 of 18 Old 18th March 2017, 02:22 PM
M3Fan
Fellow Member (>400)
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 426
Thanks: 4
Thanked 73 Times in 53 Posts
Regarding the poly trans bushings, think hard about this as the NVH will be ridiculous. I swapped mine with UUC Black and I couldn't stand it. Had to switch back to stock.

You're missing the 6 or so bolt washer/gaskets for the rear main seal flange. They are basically washers with an integrated seal for each bolt.

Figure on replacing the transmission input seal.

I did replace the release bearing guide tube. Mine was pretty scored after 130K. This is not a lubricated part (do not grease it) so it kinda relies on the release bearing's plastic surface and wears inherently. Personally I'd replace it.

There is a particular grease from BMW to lightly grease the trans splines as well as the fork pivot points. I'm sure other greases would do but I didn't want to do it again so I used the actual BMW grease FWIW.

You'll want the pilot bearing puller, special torx bit for the flywheel, trans jack, and the flywheel lock tool. Sell them after the job, but IMO it's worth it to have the real tools.

Evolve Alpha-N tune, FMU Rear Exhaust, E60 Shifter
M3Fan is online now  
The Following User Says Thank You to M3Fan For This Useful Post:
Eurosapien (19th March 2017)
 
post #4 of 18 Old 18th March 2017, 03:03 PM
CSBM5
M5 Expert (>4000)
 
CSBM5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Raleigh, NC
Age: 58
Posts: 7,047
Thanks: 1,491
Thanked 1,405 Times in 943 Posts
The guide tube is inexpensive and should always be changed. I've never seen one that didn't have wear on it. I would go with stock trans mounts too as anything else is going to increase NVH substantially for little gain. Then again, you're looking at a solid lightweight flywheel, so I assume you're prepared for the substantial rollover noise that will come with that.

Current stable:

2001 M5 LeMans Blue/Silverstone
Dinan: springs, Konis, rear sway bar;
Ground Control camber plates, Brake ducts opened, Evolve tune


2011.5 M3 sedan 6MT Silverstone, slicktop
Dinan front swaybar, Eibach rear swaybar, pins-out-max-camber-up-front, Michelin PSS street/Nitto NT-01 time trials

2007 328i wagon Silver/gray
2006 330i E90 ZSP 6MT Electric Red/Black
1975 CanAm 125MX2
CSBM5 is online now  
The Following User Says Thank You to CSBM5 For This Useful Post:
Eurosapien (19th March 2017)
post #5 of 18 Old 19th March 2017, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
Eurosapien
Member, Sport: On DSC: On (>100 posts)
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 107
Thanks: 3
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by aligoodn View Post
As far as your questions go,

1. I run royal purple synchromax with no issues or grinding (160k miles on transmission)
2. Not necessary to replace the trans to engine bolts, they are two different sizes though. The two on the upper bell housing are smaller IIRC. If you're going to work on your own car, just go ahead and get a whole set of torx bits.
3. No need to drain the diff to replace the driveshaft. The CV on the rear of the driveshaft bolts onto a mating flange on the diff that then goes through the pinion shaft seal. Recommend knocking the studs out of the driveshaft CV before installation to make it a lot easier to get in without pinching the CV boot.
4. You are correct about the gasket, replacement is impossible without removing the flywheel. I replaced mine for peace of mind, but there were no signs of leakage. I would recommend a pressure test before installing your flywheel/clutch to make sure you don't have any issues.

I assume you are aware of the chatter you're going to get with a lightweight flywheel. If you're not supercharged, I'd recommend the OEM flywheel with the south bend stage 2 daily. You can find the LuK DMFs for ~$350 if you shop around. I wouldn't bother replacing the clutch fork and the guide tube only needs to be replaced if its damaged, mine wasn't at 160k so I didn't bother. You're going to have to pull the driveshaft to do all this anyways, so depending on your mileage you may as well pick up a rebuild one. Driveshaft Specialist Inc has been used by many people on this board as well as myself and they are good quality for money.
I see Synchromax is widely accepted, so must not be necessary to use 'GL-4 spec'?

Ive read a lot of testimonies about the lightweight flywheel, I figure my car already sounds like a diesel (vanos). And I have no idea what setup I'm running right now since the car has 0 history (Owned for just over a year now, 7k hard driven miles ~152k presently and no other issues)
I figure the endurance kit might handle more abuse and last longer?
As for the driveshaft, is that for preventative maintenance? Is it common to replace it before signs of failure?
Ive read horror stories of the guibo failing under acceleration and airbags deploying.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Fan View Post
Regarding the poly trans bushings, think hard about this as the NVH will be ridiculous. I swapped mine with UUC Black and I couldn't stand it. Had to switch back to stock.

You're missing the 6 or so bolt washer/gaskets for the rear main seal flange. They are basically washers with an integrated seal for each bolt.

Figure on replacing the transmission input seal.

I did replace the release bearing guide tube. Mine was pretty scored after 130K. This is not a lubricated part (do not grease it) so it kinda relies on the release bearing's plastic surface and wears inherently. Personally I'd replace it.

There is a particular grease from BMW to lightly grease the trans splines as well as the fork pivot points. I'm sure other greases would do but I didn't want to do it again so I used the actual BMW grease FWIW.

You'll want the pilot bearing puller, special torx bit for the flywheel, trans jack, and the flywheel lock tool. Sell them after the job, but IMO it's worth it to have the real tools.
Advice taken, definitely don't want to change the trans bushings twice.

Would've never known the washers act as a sealer, getting those!

As for the transmission input seal, should i get the output seal as well?

Guide tube stays in the shopping cart.

BMW Grease, check.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
The guide tube is inexpensive and should always be changed. I've never seen one that didn't have wear on it. I would go with stock trans mounts too as anything else is going to increase NVH substantially for little gain. Then again, you're looking at a solid lightweight flywheel, so I assume you're prepared for the substantial rollover noise that will come with that.
Got it, guide tube is $58, not too bad.
As for the lightweight flywheel, the videos i found online with cars idling sound like mine already lol. The PO got the car from someone else and had it for literally months before he flipped it. History is unknown beside rod bearings being done around 90k lol. Anyway i drive it hard and it takes the abuse well.
This is why I'm figuring this clutch/flywheel combo, If i went to the LUK Dual Mass and Stage 2 Daily clutch that aligoodn suggests, would that be a step down in performance and longevity?
Eurosapien is offline  
post #6 of 18 Old 19th March 2017, 03:09 PM
M3Fan
Fellow Member (>400)
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 426
Thanks: 4
Thanked 73 Times in 53 Posts
Trans output seal doesn't have to be done on this particular job, especially if it's not leaking.

Evolve Alpha-N tune, FMU Rear Exhaust, E60 Shifter
M3Fan is online now  
post #7 of 18 Old 20th March 2017, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
Eurosapien
Member, Sport: On DSC: On (>100 posts)
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 107
Thanks: 3
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Getting ready to put in the order Monday, quick question.

Im thinking of changing Diff input shaft seal ( 33121213949 ) while I have the exhaust down and shaft out, i could service other diff seals with exhaust and shaft in?

Any other must-do's ? I don't have a lift and want to do this once.
Eurosapien is offline  
post #8 of 18 Old 20th March 2017, 05:37 PM
booster_
Member, Sport: On DSC: On (>100 posts)
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 155
Thanks: 28
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Fan View Post

You're missing the 6 or so bolt washer/gaskets for the rear main seal flange. They are basically washers with an integrated seal for each bolt.
Is this part of the kit? I don't see them in the image? What's the part number?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/11141436109/
booster_ is online now  
post #9 of 18 Old 20th March 2017, 06:45 PM
Rontgen
Member, P500 Sport, MDM on (>800)
 
Rontgen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 885
Thanks: 63
Thanked 158 Times in 135 Posts
You get the gasket for the CV-Joint to Diff surface?

- Darrell

2001 M5 - Jet Black / Black Nappa
Dynavin N6, Dinan Exhaust, AutoSolutions SSK
Rontgen is online now  
post #10 of 18 Old 20th March 2017, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
Eurosapien
Member, Sport: On DSC: On (>100 posts)
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 107
Thanks: 3
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by booster_ View Post
Is this part of the kit? I don't see them in the image? What's the part number?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/11141436109/
Yea its very unclear, doesn't even show whether it comes with the flange gasket ( 11141736521 $1.60 ). Looks like there are washers on the bolts though, but the description is very unclear for this one for some reason.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rontgen View Post
You get the gasket for the CV-Joint to Diff surface?
Part # please
Eurosapien is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Special tools for DIY clutch & flywheel nkcfd148 E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 8 4th March 2014 01:51 AM
DIY: Remove & Install Clutch WallyM5 E60 M5 and E61 M5 Touring Discussion 3 5th March 2013 02:53 AM
Replacing Sunroof Seal - Part # Question & DIY Request shieldze1025 E60 M5 and E61 M5 Touring Discussion 14 26th February 2013 08:03 PM
Rod end DIY Part numbers list jamiepeers E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 10 25th January 2011 08:02 PM
More clutch questions [feedback on long-term use of UUC & Clutchmasters]? ssomed E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 10 9th January 2007 12:03 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome