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post #1 of 30 Old 9th February 2017, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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weird vanos error

Hello,
I'm getting the following error code when I plug up INPA to my 00 M5.


The VANOS units were rebuilt in July of last year by Dr.Vanos, and both CPS's on the driver side were replaced. I never trigger an SES light, but have a kind of weird cold idle. Those 2 codes were present in memory aswell. Where should I start looking to diagnose this?

-2011 Alpine White 1M
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post #2 of 30 Old 9th February 2017, 08:02 PM
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How is that weird? If you have 15 then you will surely get 185 or other descriptor. It is possible to get the 185 alone but 15 never goes to the dance alone. For those that use hex he has B9 = 185, Exhaust camshaft VANOS position control, Cyl#1-4 and 0F = 15, Crankshaft/Camshaft position correlation, Cyl#1-4. BTW you should have included that info in your post.

No offense but you put little effort into finding the answer to this, albeit to find it on the board you need to convert decimal codes to hex codes but you should do that anyway because we use hex as default when "we are talking codes".

The answer to your question is you have a broken/shorted electrical path on one of the exhaust solenoids on bank one those are the ones on the left side looking from the rad or failed hydraulics. IE leaky noids or something else and you will not find out until you bench test the boards.

I will say the odds are highest because of the two code combo that you have a failed or broken off diode/Mov controlling one of the exhaust solenoids.
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post #3 of 30 Old 9th February 2017, 08:13 PM
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INPA does the hex conversion for you already. The first hex after Errorcode: at the bottom of each error corresponds to the hex/Peake value more commonly used here (the image is broken on the board, btw. Works OK on tapatalk though...)
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post #4 of 30 Old 9th February 2017, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor24 View Post
How is that weird? If you have 15 then you will surely get 185 or other descriptor. It is possible to get the 185 alone but 15 never goes to the dance alone. For those that use hex he has B9 = 185, Exhaust camshaft VANOS position control, Cyl#1-4 and 0F = 15, Crankshaft/Camshaft position correlation, Cyl#1-4. BTW you should have included that info in your post.

No offense but you put little effort into finding the answer to this, albeit to find it on the board you need to convert decimal codes to hex codes but you should do that anyway because we use hex as default when "we are talking codes".

The answer to your question is you have a broken/shorted electrical path on one of the exhaust solenoids on bank one those are the ones on the left side looking from the rad or failed hydraulics. IE leaky noids or something else and you will not find out until you bench test the boards.

I will say the odds are highest because of the two code combo that you have a failed or broken off diode/Mov controlling one of the exhaust solenoids.
I didn't know that, I've owned the car for less than 7 days at this point. So my next course of action is to pull the VANOS control solenoids off the passenger side and test/look for cold/broken solder joints?


Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdmb View Post
INPA does the hex conversion for you already. The first hex after Errorcode: at the bottom of each error corresponds to the hex/Peake value more commonly used here (the image is broken on the board, btw. Works OK on tapatalk though...)
Good to know, I will use those HEX codes going forward. Thank you.

-2011 Alpine White 1M
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post #5 of 30 Old 9th February 2017, 09:56 PM
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Read this as a guide. VANOS Solenoid Maintenance_Full DIY
You may not have to do that but it will give you an idea.
What you need to do is test the resistance of each noid to look for shorts. Should be ~4 ohms. Do that at the plug. A short will be clear the resistance will be near 0 ohms. If the diode has fallen off it won't be there.

If everything seems OK then pull the left and put it where the right was and vise versa. Button her up and see if the code moves. If it does then you know which board it is, if it does not you have something deeper in the vanos. Since you just bought this car it makes me suspicious that the problem could be deeper. As in this thread.
B9 , Exhaust camshaft Vanos position control

Last edited by Sailor24; 9th February 2017 at 09:57 PM.
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post #6 of 30 Old 9th February 2017, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor24 View Post
Read this as a guide. VANOS Solenoid Maintenance_Full DIY
You may not have to do that but it will give you an idea.
What you need to do is test the resistance of each noid to look for shorts. Should be ~4 ohms. Do that at the plug. A short will be clear the resistance will be near 0 ohms. If the diode has fallen off it won't be there.

If everything seems OK then pull the left and put it where the right was and vise versa. Button her up and see if the code moves. If it does then you know which board it is, if it does not you have something deeper in the vanos. Since you just bought this car it makes me suspicious that the problem could be deeper. As in this thread.
B9 , Exhaust camshaft Vanos position control
Got off the phone with Dr.Vanos. Everything was rebuilt less than 12m ago. He informed me that the solenoid board was redone with new orings and the joints were all reflowed and that I should look towards replacing the CPS. I have the cover off, but can not for the life of me get these stupid solenoids out. I've watched 3 different videos about it.

-2011 Alpine White 1M
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post #7 of 30 Old 9th February 2017, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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post #8 of 30 Old 9th February 2017, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Ohming out the board it looks like Im not getting a solid signal on the first set of plug on the right side of the bottom picture. The wire that doesnt have the trace seems to be the one I have to wiggle around. Gonna reflow the solder to it.

-2011 Alpine White 1M
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post #9 of 30 Old 10th February 2017, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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Board mounted MOV's are bad. 1N4148/1N914 Diodes are still the go-to to replace them?

-2011 Alpine White 1M
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post #10 of 30 Old 10th February 2017, 03:16 AM
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Maybe the rebuilt boards were switched for some others. Those still have the filter rings on. Looking at the solder work I am unimpressed. Take the filters out and throw them away, the brown rings but look to see if there is any fibers left or if they have been scraped clean. I personally would re-solder the small boards and there are two on the main board I would want to look at more closely.

Don't reflow solder it does no good. At best it is temporary. You need to suck the solder off apply flux and re-solder. Thousands of times we have gone through this argument even recently. The flux is key and will do all the cleaning for you. Does this bridge on my solenoid board look ok?

They are likely diodes not MOVs but no one knows for sure. Why do you say they are no go?

Last edited by Sailor24; 10th February 2017 at 03:16 AM.
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