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post #1 of 12 Old 10th January 2017, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
Abdiel Hiram Gonzalez Mafla
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Another misfire thread..

Hi Everyone.

I will really appreciate any help on this matter, as the car started with misfire this morning, after I refuel the tank, yesterday.

Car has been running OK, and misfire were logged from time to time, in the past, now the misfire is permanent and the car have no power as it used to be.

I've had ran the scanner and thinking on a possible bad fuel, drove this afternoon to burn the fuel, still the same.

Scanner codes are attached on the file.

I'm completely lost honestly. Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 12 Old 10th January 2017, 04:07 PM
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I don't think it's a coil based on cylinders involved and firing order. With no other codes I suspect VANOS.
How many miles on car? Has VANOS maintenance been done? CPS's original?
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post #3 of 12 Old 10th January 2017, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Car is 95,000 Miles, but I havent done anything to the VANOS yet. shouldn't be throwing VANOS code if thats the case? I swapped some COils this morning to see if theres any change, and it seems to run better.
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post #4 of 12 Old 10th January 2017, 11:00 PM
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Sounds good but? What do you mean based on the firing order? If we look at the firing order it clearly looks like a coil injector or plug. 6 and 1 are opposite and 2 is pre opposite 6. Firing order 1 - 5 - 4 - 8 - 6 - 3 - 7 - 2. Code 205 and above are during warmup or the first 1000 rotations on the exhaust fire so I would agree vanos is a suspect, but since these are all misfires or acceleration of the crank, more accurately, on the exhaust fire. More accurately is a bit of a joke because that was the intention but it failed. The DME has a hard time figuring out if it is the exhaust fire or the opposite compression fire even though they are offset a bit. It could be anything so I would suggest going through the steps and not slapping the Vanos without ruling out the standard culprits.

OP since your title says "another" I take it you have read a few of these so follow the basic steps. A bottle of really good fuel injector cleaner(you don't say where you are from, hard to name a product) Techron or CRS Guaranteed to pass Then follow with an upper head lube or 1/2 a liter of synth oil in the next tank.

Pull the plugs and replace because it is easier than testing each one and do some coil moving ignore 2 and move 1 and 6 to the location that is 3 before this gives the best space between fires and is the most likely to move the misfire codes. So 6 goes to 5 and 1 goes to 3 or 6 to 3 and 1 to 5. Not sure why the later works better but it seems to.

While you are doing that prepare for the vanos work because you should do it anyway and it is a likely candidate for warmup misfires.
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post #5 of 12 Old 11th January 2017, 12:13 PM
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I had a random misfire code last year. Had some noise coming from the clutch/flywheel and the clutch was due to be changed anyway. Finally got to it over Xmas. Turns out the clutch pilot bearing had disintegrated and all the metal swarf/shavings had magnetically stuck to the crank sensor pick up in the bell housing. Cleaned it when replacing clutch and has been fine since.

Is pretty easy just to pull the crank sensor out and look at. Just an idea.

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post #6 of 12 Old 11th January 2017, 05:45 PM
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Misfires are all on exhaust. The cylinders involved are not in sequence of the firing order... cyl 1 and 2 are as far away from 6 as you can get. I think these two things make a coil unlikely. Both banks involved so I doubt it's a single cylinder/injector problem and more likely to be a general issue like VANOS, MAFS, vacuum leak, etc.
OP does your scan tool do fuel trims? Do you have maintenance records on the car? At 95K miles VANOS, CPS, MAFS, plugs are all due for R&R.
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post #7 of 12 Old 11th January 2017, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrviz View Post
Misfires are all on exhaust. The cylinders involved are not in sequence of the firing order... cyl 1 and 2 are as far away from 6 as you can get.
Yes they are as far away as possible the exhaust and compression fires are near the same time. Time and time again it has been proven that the misfire module can't really tell if it is the comp stroke or exhaust which is misfiring. Just read Ard's thread on his misfire extravaganza.

You might have noticed that Vanos is bank specific.
The one other thing I did not point out because it is in other threads which is what the OP should be using rather than making us type every thing again and again is you need the battery fully charged for one of the tests because the coils have to fire twice as much. The drain on the electrical system is very high. Misfires can be caused by the coil firing before using too much current and not leaving enough reserve for the next one. That is why you move two coils then move the next two etc. Eventually you will hit the offending coil and the misfires will move.

There is only one way to find misfires and that is to go thru all of the steps, randomly jumping around will get you no where. There are so many causes to misfires. You have to rule one thing out at a time and check everything. Then what is left is the likely cause which could be a driver in the DME even.
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post #8 of 12 Old 11th January 2017, 08:30 PM
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Of course VANOS is bank specific but at 95K miles if never serviced both noid boards could easily be boogered and causing misfires on both banks, as mine were when I first got the car.
Very true, misfires can be from many causes and testing should be orderly. Getting some fuel trim info would be really helpful here.
Also, in ard's thread, he had regular misfires, not exhaust. I have not seen that code by the way, misfire on exhaust. Is it on the Peake list?

Last edited by xrviz; 11th January 2017 at 08:41 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 12th January 2017, 01:57 AM
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205 -213 decimal or CD - D5 hex is listed as Misfire during warmup in Peake. Others list it as exhaust but they are just definitions, the truth of it is it can be on the exhaust or the comp the module can't really tell nor is there a claim by BMW that it can. They say look for opposites and key on them to start the diag. then look at unrest and you might see which is the exhaust and which is comp but it is hard to see. The key to telling which is a misfire on the exhaust stroke is the cyl next in firing order may also show codes, in this case 2.
Clearly 1 and 6 are opposite that is where you start. I have been warned about posting what my All Data says but it has a tree that starts by looking for opposites and does what I said about moving two at a time.
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post #10 of 12 Old 12th January 2017, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
Abdiel Hiram Gonzalez Mafla
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Thanks for all your responses.

Basically I did the fuel injector cleaner, drain the thank to discard bad fuel and add octane booster to the next one. something interesting from the lecture here is:

1. I moved COIL from cylinder 6 to cylinder 5 and reseat the other 2 coils 1 and 2 and so far now i am getting misfire only on Cylinder 5.

2. Mordor110 mentioned the clutch, mine is due to replace and that was the next service planned before the misfire. I will check that sensor just in case.

I was thinking on replace the coils anyways and found a descent guide here to the vanos maint, you think is a good DIY idea?
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