So I am lucky enough to be installing my new ESS kit. For those who have done before did you have any issues with the lower radiator hose/AC line? They are pretty sandwiched in with the SC bracket. I decided to order a new hose tonight as it looks a lot easier to replace before mounting the SC/tensioner I wouldnt want to have to deal with it post install especially if i wasnt near a decent tool kit.
Common consensus is that it is a good idea to replace the lower hose when doing the SC install. It is also a good idea to do a SAP delete by cutting the metal tube off on both sides and welding them shut to get rid of the pipe going across the front of the engine to give you more clearance. It's easy to code out SAP in the DME and shouldn't cause any emissions test problems. Getting rid of the pipe should give you much more clearance for the hose.
ESS tune codes out the SAP. But yes, that's a squeezed hose in that setup. Not my favorite aspect of that kit. But plugging the secondary air ports and removing the pipe and the pump helps. If you want SA plugs for the heads, Partee Racing can supply.
Thanks guys, good advice. Will check out the SA hoses. I am a bit hesitant to cut into as I would like the ability to return the car to stock down the road.
The leaking plenum gasket....was it the main large gasket that gets clamped down with the fancy chrome nuts?
You can easily pick up a replacement SAI pipe from Clemster (Adam) I'm guessing if you ever want to return to stock but even so, keeping yours is easier. And you can then sell the Partee Racing parts with the used SC kit for the new buyer.
No, the leaking plenum gasket was the lower ones that go around the throttle bodies. I got some RK plenum plates to solve that.
Cool, I will take a look when I return to the garage. Other then the bracket, I didn't notice something in the way. I wonder if they have already been deleted by the PO.
What PSI were you running to see the leaks? I have a smoke tester but it doesn't apply much pressure. Is it an effective way to test for potential leaks?
Check my build thread for gory details, but I used a pressure tester rig that Clemster came up with. I found leaks starting at 2-3psi and when I worked those out, more at 5-6psi IIRC. I'm only boosted to about 8.5-9.0 right now, but it's solid with no leaks finally after many hours of installation, testing, disassembly, etc. Took a LONG time. Save yourself the trouble and replace everything vacuum related ahead of time.
I even went and got an early '00 S62 aluminum plenum and new gasket to make sure it wouldn't shatter down the road. I've heard it happens but is not overly common.
My build thread prior to recent work which includes photos and details of the testing:
Redshift...Reviewing your thread. Is it possible to use a silicone bead to seal rather than replacing the plates? I am only planning to run 6PSI.
Also, do you have a good picture of what plugs go where on the supercharger? I saw this but am a little confused. Thanks
My dipstick tube was also in the wrong location. ESS told me to put it on the bottom of the two holes (the upper is the vent plug). Once I added the teflon tape and re-tightened the stainless drain hose it didn't leak any more so I'm finally good.
Everything else looks to be solid and holding tight. It's a great, well thought out kit and installed very easily. I would add a few notes to the installation instructions but otherwise it was dead simple and it works amazingly well. The car is a total monster and nobody expects or knows it.
Sorry to misword...was trying to figure out the orientation of the dipstick plug in the supercharger. I am sure it will become more obvious once I have it mounted. Will use Teflon tape on the drain as well.
Will give the silicone a shot at first, it sounds like I may be removing the plenum a few times though!
Will do. And thanks for possibly saving me a few bucks on a drill bit...was about to run out and grab a 1/2" today. Have a 5/8" already in the took box which sounds like it might be a better fit. Will put a caliper on the vent to check.
So I emailed to ask what this little plate is for. It allows you to block off the air injection valve at the head. Looks like this is a new addition. Seems like that will help with the hose and i won't have to cut the pipes.
Looks like they have made several changes to the kit along the way. They all seem positive from what i can tell. Hopefully they will also update the instructions in the near future.
Ok I thought that is why you were removing the pipes, to get the valve out of the way. With the valve out-of-the-way is there a reason to remove the pipes? they look like they're well below the coolant hose.
also now that the valve has been removed is it OK to eliminate this vacuum line actuator thing? The kit had me placing a T between one of the lines. seems that I can go directly to the intake now in and Eliminate the T.
Ok I thought that is why you were removing the pipes, to get the valve out of the way. With the valve out-of-the-way is there a reason to remove the pipes? they look like they're well below the coolant hose.
also now that the valve has been removed is it OK to eliminate this vacuum line actuator thing? The kit had me placing a T between one of the lines. seems that I can go directly to the intake now in and Eliminate the T.
Can anyone comment on the little actuator pictured above? Hoping to avoid CE lights when i put this back together. Not sure if i can completely bypass and go straight to the manifold. Expecting injectors to arrive today so i can wrap this up!
So I decided to run the vacuum line directly to the supercharger bypass valve and took the actuator pictured above out of the loop. I did leave it plugged in to the electrical system. Test drove the car about 20 miles yesterday and no CE light. Guessing its safe to be removed. Will update if that changes.
Also, did try the silicone on the plenum plates. There is a nice little groove to run a bead down. I don't really know if it is working as I haven't pressure tested the system but plan to do a smoke test for anything obvious. I am sure its not as tight as the RK plates but I didn't have another 900 in the budget and don't plan to run high boost. If needed I can add those down the road.
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