Last night I installed the black M5 fuel pump relay behind the glove box. This is a total pain in the *** to do, because the wires are pretty short and there's a bit in the way to get to it. To do it, I first pulled the glove box, which is pretty easy actually. Pull the black cover from the bottom towards you and it will slide right off. There's 2 10mm nuts on the bottom at the back that need to be loosened, then there are 2 clips that hold the gas damper and tether on the inside to the glove box. Slide those off and pull the glove box out and you'll see an electrical connector going to the flash light plug. Squeeze the top and bottom of the connector and it comes right out. Once you pull the glove box out of the car, you'll see the GM and several relays right behind it. The relay you're looking for is as close to the firewall as possible and all the way to the right. It took me a while to get the socket out of the white housing that holds all the modules and relays, since I didn't realize it had a clip on both sides of it. I found it much easier to slide the GM out of the housing to give better access and there are just two clips and it slides straight out. I didn't disconnect the plugs on it since doing so would set off the alarm. With it out of the way, you should see the left and right side press clips holding the relay socket. I found it much easier to reach up and push down on the relay itself, then use a small flathead to push the left side clip in and then carefully also spread the housing apart, releasing the right side clip. Once it's released, you can pull it down the rest of the way and towards you to start working on it. You're going to need to do a couple different things. I had already grabbed 2 other wires from a used relay socket off my parts car, but you could buy brand new relay socket wires if you want. You need the small ones, not the bigger ones. You'll be adding one wire to pin 1 and one wire to pin 7, which are in the corners of one side of the socket and can be identified by the green clip that goes under the relay itself. You'll need to remove the green clip though to insert the wires all the way in, then push the clip back down to secure the connectors in the socket. The black relay module fits the socket with the green clip, so no modification needed. Pin 4 is the one that is currently the black with violet wire coming from the DME and will need to be cut somewhere near the socket and wired to the new wire you added to pin 1. Pin 7 is a new ground wire that I ended up running down the A pillar kick panel to a ground splice under the carpet. This is doable without removing the seat, but it's kind of a pain. You'll want a proper spade terminal for the BMW splice junctions so you can just slide it into an unused slot. Lastly, go into the Ebox and relocate pin 10 of x60004 (4th DME connector) to pin 11 on x60002 (2nd DME connector). This is the pin that supplies the PWM signal for the fuel pump relay. Make sure it starts at this point before putting it all back together. Then it would be a good idea to wait an hour or two (or more if you can) and try starting the car again. This makes sure that it starting and running isn't just from the residual fuel in the lines, rather than the relay actually working. I found out that last night when I did the work that I didn't get the wires all the way into the socket and the car wouldn't start this morning. I had to take it all apart and realize that I needed to remove the green relay clip to push the wires in all the way. Once you've confirmed it's working, put it all back together and you're done
Also today I installed the M5 traction bars. I had bought all new hardware to install them, which made it go pretty easy and clean. It turns out you don't even need to remove the front subframe bolts as I thought, since both M5 and non-M5 have the same bolts. It's just the bolts that hold the plastic covers on that are different as the M5 ones are much longer and hold the bars on as well. Then you need to remove the 4 bolts holding the exhaust under the driveshaft and bolt up the front ends of the bars using the new bolts and washers. Simple to install and hopefully will make a difference, but I'm not holding my breath.
Also, new 12.5mm ECS spacers will be in on Monday and hopefully I don't have any problems with them.