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post #61 of 127 Old 22nd October 2016, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
blackknight530i
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Well, I got the replacement spacers in and they aren't even close to working, even without me putting them on the car. I took a spare wheel and slid the spacers into it and there was about a 1-2mm gap between the wheel face and the spacer, just like before. I then compared the spacers to some 10mm H&R spacers on ECS and they both have this 1-2mm straight rise before the bevel. This is what's causing the problems. If it wasn't there, the wheel would fit flat against the spacer, as it should, but instead it's relocating the bevel, and therefore the wheel further out. These wheels have the bevel right at the face, so this would never work. I looked at some 12mm in both H&R and ECS and both have no rise before the bevel, so it looks like I need to swap them out for some of those. Ugh.

-Paul
2003 "M5" - S62/420g swap, M5 diff, M5 driveshaft, M5 brakes, M5 Traction Bars, Eibach Sway Bars, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Custom Exhaust,
BMW NBT Retrofit, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-Xenon Retrofit, M5 Extended Leather Interior Swap, APEX PS-7s, e60 Hubs, Koni Sports
Coming Soon - M5 Bumpers
530i 6-speed swap build thread

2003 530it6 - M54b30/S6S-420g swap, 3.15 540it diff, e60 SSK, VMR VB2 19" Wheels, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-xenon Retrofit, NBT Retrofit, Koni Sports, 540i Brakes

2001 749i6 - Retired and being parted out - M5Board Build Log
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post #62 of 127 Old 28th October 2016, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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Last night I installed the black M5 fuel pump relay behind the glove box. This is a total pain in the *** to do, because the wires are pretty short and there's a bit in the way to get to it. To do it, I first pulled the glove box, which is pretty easy actually. Pull the black cover from the bottom towards you and it will slide right off. There's 2 10mm nuts on the bottom at the back that need to be loosened, then there are 2 clips that hold the gas damper and tether on the inside to the glove box. Slide those off and pull the glove box out and you'll see an electrical connector going to the flash light plug. Squeeze the top and bottom of the connector and it comes right out. Once you pull the glove box out of the car, you'll see the GM and several relays right behind it. The relay you're looking for is as close to the firewall as possible and all the way to the right. It took me a while to get the socket out of the white housing that holds all the modules and relays, since I didn't realize it had a clip on both sides of it. I found it much easier to slide the GM out of the housing to give better access and there are just two clips and it slides straight out. I didn't disconnect the plugs on it since doing so would set off the alarm. With it out of the way, you should see the left and right side press clips holding the relay socket. I found it much easier to reach up and push down on the relay itself, then use a small flathead to push the left side clip in and then carefully also spread the housing apart, releasing the right side clip. Once it's released, you can pull it down the rest of the way and towards you to start working on it. You're going to need to do a couple different things. I had already grabbed 2 other wires from a used relay socket off my parts car, but you could buy brand new relay socket wires if you want. You need the small ones, not the bigger ones. You'll be adding one wire to pin 1 and one wire to pin 7, which are in the corners of one side of the socket and can be identified by the green clip that goes under the relay itself. You'll need to remove the green clip though to insert the wires all the way in, then push the clip back down to secure the connectors in the socket. The black relay module fits the socket with the green clip, so no modification needed. Pin 4 is the one that is currently the black with violet wire coming from the DME and will need to be cut somewhere near the socket and wired to the new wire you added to pin 1. Pin 7 is a new ground wire that I ended up running down the A pillar kick panel to a ground splice under the carpet. This is doable without removing the seat, but it's kind of a pain. You'll want a proper spade terminal for the BMW splice junctions so you can just slide it into an unused slot. Lastly, go into the Ebox and relocate pin 10 of x60004 (4th DME connector) to pin 11 on x60002 (2nd DME connector). This is the pin that supplies the PWM signal for the fuel pump relay. Make sure it starts at this point before putting it all back together. Then it would be a good idea to wait an hour or two (or more if you can) and try starting the car again. This makes sure that it starting and running isn't just from the residual fuel in the lines, rather than the relay actually working. I found out that last night when I did the work that I didn't get the wires all the way into the socket and the car wouldn't start this morning. I had to take it all apart and realize that I needed to remove the green relay clip to push the wires in all the way. Once you've confirmed it's working, put it all back together and you're done .

Also today I installed the M5 traction bars. I had bought all new hardware to install them, which made it go pretty easy and clean. It turns out you don't even need to remove the front subframe bolts as I thought, since both M5 and non-M5 have the same bolts. It's just the bolts that hold the plastic covers on that are different as the M5 ones are much longer and hold the bars on as well. Then you need to remove the 4 bolts holding the exhaust under the driveshaft and bolt up the front ends of the bars using the new bolts and washers. Simple to install and hopefully will make a difference, but I'm not holding my breath.

Also, new 12.5mm ECS spacers will be in on Monday and hopefully I don't have any problems with them.

-Paul
2003 "M5" - S62/420g swap, M5 diff, M5 driveshaft, M5 brakes, M5 Traction Bars, Eibach Sway Bars, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Custom Exhaust,
BMW NBT Retrofit, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-Xenon Retrofit, M5 Extended Leather Interior Swap, APEX PS-7s, e60 Hubs, Koni Sports
Coming Soon - M5 Bumpers
530i 6-speed swap build thread

2003 530it6 - M54b30/S6S-420g swap, 3.15 540it diff, e60 SSK, VMR VB2 19" Wheels, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-xenon Retrofit, NBT Retrofit, Koni Sports, 540i Brakes

2001 749i6 - Retired and being parted out - M5Board Build Log
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post #63 of 127 Old 31st October 2016, 01:07 AM
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electronics always my weak point. did you experience any driving issues with the none M fuel pump relay? and did you have code for fuel relay and did swapping the relay cleared the code?


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Originally Posted by blackknight530i View Post
Last night I installed the black M5 fuel pump relay behind the glove box. This is a total pain in the *** to do, because the wires are pretty short and there's a bit in the way to get to it. To do it, I first pulled the glove box, which is pretty easy actually. Pull the black cover from the bottom towards you and it will slide right off. There's 2 10mm nuts on the bottom at the back that need to be loosened, then there are 2 clips that hold the gas damper and tether on the inside to the glove box. Slide those off and pull the glove box out and you'll see an electrical connector going to the flash light plug. Squeeze the top and bottom of the connector and it comes right out. Once you pull the glove box out of the car, you'll see the GM and several relays right behind it. The relay you're looking for is as close to the firewall as possible and all the way to the right. It took me a while to get the socket out of the white housing that holds all the modules and relays, since I didn't realize it had a clip on both sides of it. I found it much easier to slide the GM out of the housing to give better access and there are just two clips and it slides straight out. I didn't disconnect the plugs on it since doing so would set off the alarm. With it out of the way, you should see the left and right side press clips holding the relay socket. I found it much easier to reach up and push down on the relay itself, then use a small flathead to push the left side clip in and then carefully also spread the housing apart, releasing the right side clip. Once it's released, you can pull it down the rest of the way and towards you to start working on it. You're going to need to do a couple different things. I had already grabbed 2 other wires from a used relay socket off my parts car, but you could buy brand new relay socket wires if you want. You need the small ones, not the bigger ones. You'll be adding one wire to pin 1 and one wire to pin 7, which are in the corners of one side of the socket and can be identified by the green clip that goes under the relay itself. You'll need to remove the green clip though to insert the wires all the way in, then push the clip back down to secure the connectors in the socket. The black relay module fits the socket with the green clip, so no modification needed. Pin 4 is the one that is currently the black with violet wire coming from the DME and will need to be cut somewhere near the socket and wired to the new wire you added to pin 1. Pin 7 is a new ground wire that I ended up running down the A pillar kick panel to a ground splice under the carpet. This is doable without removing the seat, but it's kind of a pain. You'll want a proper spade terminal for the BMW splice junctions so you can just slide it into an unused slot. Lastly, go into the Ebox and relocate pin 10 of x60004 (4th DME connector) to pin 11 on x60002 (2nd DME connector). This is the pin that supplies the PWM signal for the fuel pump relay. Make sure it starts at this point before putting it all back together. Then it would be a good idea to wait an hour or two (or more if you can) and try starting the car again. This makes sure that it starting and running isn't just from the residual fuel in the lines, rather than the relay actually working. I found out that last night when I did the work that I didn't get the wires all the way into the socket and the car wouldn't start this morning. I had to take it all apart and realize that I needed to remove the green relay clip to push the wires in all the way. Once you've confirmed it's working, put it all back together and you're done .

Also today I installed the M5 traction bars. I had bought all new hardware to install them, which made it go pretty easy and clean. It turns out you don't even need to remove the front subframe bolts as I thought, since both M5 and non-M5 have the same bolts. It's just the bolts that hold the plastic covers on that are different as the M5 ones are much longer and hold the bars on as well. Then you need to remove the 4 bolts holding the exhaust under the driveshaft and bolt up the front ends of the bars using the new bolts and washers. Simple to install and hopefully will make a difference, but I'm not holding my breath.

Also, new 12.5mm ECS spacers will be in on Monday and hopefully I don't have any problems with them.
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post #64 of 127 Old 31st October 2016, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackknight530i View Post
Another pic taken by BlindKenny on Hwy 80 on our trip last Saturday:

i like the square mirrors over the round ones
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post #65 of 127 Old 31st October 2016, 03:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaid View Post
electronics always my weak point. did you experience any driving issues with the none M fuel pump relay? and did you have code for fuel relay and did swapping the relay cleared the code?
Hi Zaid,

No, I didn't have any drivability issues with the old green relay, I just figured I had the $30 relay module already from my e38, so I figured I would go ahead and swap it and do it right. Yes, there is a fuel pump relay code for any relay other than the black one, but it doesn't affect anything. Since putting the black relay module in, the code is now gone. It doesn't throw any CEL, so it's not really worth worrying about. The only thing about your car is that I accidentally told you to wire the fuel pump relay differently, then realized my mistake later and suggested you move the wire back to where it originally was. The way yours is wired right now is providing the PWM signal to the green relay, which is not right and in my car caused the green relay to buzz really loudly. I think on yours the relay is in the trunk area above the battery, so that's probably why you don't hear it. Either way, when I moved that wire back to the original spot (unmodified from the original wiring for the old engine), it got rid of the buzzing and worked fine, just had the code.

-Paul
2003 "M5" - S62/420g swap, M5 diff, M5 driveshaft, M5 brakes, M5 Traction Bars, Eibach Sway Bars, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Custom Exhaust,
BMW NBT Retrofit, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-Xenon Retrofit, M5 Extended Leather Interior Swap, APEX PS-7s, e60 Hubs, Koni Sports
Coming Soon - M5 Bumpers
530i 6-speed swap build thread

2003 530it6 - M54b30/S6S-420g swap, 3.15 540it diff, e60 SSK, VMR VB2 19" Wheels, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-xenon Retrofit, NBT Retrofit, Koni Sports, 540i Brakes

2001 749i6 - Retired and being parted out - M5Board Build Log
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post #66 of 127 Old 31st October 2016, 03:44 AM Thread Starter
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i like the square mirrors over the round ones
Funny you mention that, I am planning on picking up some aftermarket M5 mirrors and getting them painted to match when I do the front and rear bumpers and exhaust. I'm hoping to have the only M5 sedan in Black Sapphire Metallic (since it wasn't offered on the e39 M5 apparently). I installed the M5 door sills last night, except for the front left one that was in pretty rough shape. I'm looking for a replacement for it. Once I do the bumpers, I'll be putting the M5 side badges on the gloss black sapphire rub strips, rather than switching them to matte black like actual M5s. This means cutting the openings out for the holders, but I already have the parts.

-Paul
2003 "M5" - S62/420g swap, M5 diff, M5 driveshaft, M5 brakes, M5 Traction Bars, Eibach Sway Bars, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Custom Exhaust,
BMW NBT Retrofit, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-Xenon Retrofit, M5 Extended Leather Interior Swap, APEX PS-7s, e60 Hubs, Koni Sports
Coming Soon - M5 Bumpers
530i 6-speed swap build thread

2003 530it6 - M54b30/S6S-420g swap, 3.15 540it diff, e60 SSK, VMR VB2 19" Wheels, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-xenon Retrofit, NBT Retrofit, Koni Sports, 540i Brakes

2001 749i6 - Retired and being parted out - M5Board Build Log
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post #67 of 127 Old 31st October 2016, 01:35 PM
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I had the buzzing sound from under the dash and the code from day one. The buzzing stopped but still have the code. Im worried the the buzzing stipped after burning somthing in the relay because after that i had the issue of random sudden cutting gas for a split second. It happens very random. Sometimes it drive for days with out it happening and sometimes over 10times in a 20minutes trip
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post #68 of 127 Old 31st October 2016, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I had the buzzing sound from under the dash and the code from day one. The buzzing stopped but still have the code. Im worried the the buzzing stipped after burning somthing in the relay because after that i had the issue of random sudden cutting gas for a split second. It happens very random. Sometimes it drive for days with out it happening and sometimes over 10times in a 20minutes trip
That could be. That's why I told you about changing that wire as soon as I discovered it.

-Paul
2003 "M5" - S62/420g swap, M5 diff, M5 driveshaft, M5 brakes, M5 Traction Bars, Eibach Sway Bars, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Custom Exhaust,
BMW NBT Retrofit, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-Xenon Retrofit, M5 Extended Leather Interior Swap, APEX PS-7s, e60 Hubs, Koni Sports
Coming Soon - M5 Bumpers
530i 6-speed swap build thread

2003 530it6 - M54b30/S6S-420g swap, 3.15 540it diff, e60 SSK, VMR VB2 19" Wheels, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-xenon Retrofit, NBT Retrofit, Koni Sports, 540i Brakes

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post #69 of 127 Old 1st November 2016, 04:07 AM Thread Starter
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Today the 12.5mm ECS spacers came in and these seem to finally fit properly. I took the car for a quick test drive after installing them and I didn't notice any new vibrations like I had before, but I haven't been on the interstate yet to know for sure if there are any high speed vibrations. Torquing down the lugs was much more accurate, so that's a positive. Also, I could have easily gone to like 20mm spacers, there is so much room on the front of these cars, but the 12.5mm seems to be about right and should allow me to lower the car later on if I want without rubbing. There is officially no more rubbing of tires on this car. I can't get the back to rub at all, no matter what I try, and the fronts don't even rub the inner frame rails anymore, though they didn't when I raised the struts in the knuckle, so who knows. I think I now have the clearance though to be able to get new tires later on and not have them rub the spring perches.

That's all I did to the car today though.

-Paul
2003 "M5" - S62/420g swap, M5 diff, M5 driveshaft, M5 brakes, M5 Traction Bars, Eibach Sway Bars, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Custom Exhaust,
BMW NBT Retrofit, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-Xenon Retrofit, M5 Extended Leather Interior Swap, APEX PS-7s, e60 Hubs, Koni Sports
Coming Soon - M5 Bumpers
530i 6-speed swap build thread

2003 530it6 - M54b30/S6S-420g swap, 3.15 540it diff, e60 SSK, VMR VB2 19" Wheels, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-xenon Retrofit, NBT Retrofit, Koni Sports, 540i Brakes

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post #70 of 127 Old 6th November 2016, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I'm totally done with these ECS spacers. Drove to Alabama yesterday and noticed that they have an absolutely horrible vibration at 45 MPH that makes the whole car shake side to side and is easily felt in the steering wheel. I plan to drive back to Charlotte tomorrow evening and was going to take them off for the drive back, but while it worked ok using the longer bolts on the passenger side, the driver side dust shield is broken and was causing the longer bolts to hit it, so I had to leave the spacer on for now. I wish I had a spare set of wheel lugs so I could take these off, but I don't. At least the vibration isn't that bad at higher speeds. Ugh, 5 hours of driving like that is going to suck again.

Once I get home, they are coming off and getting sent back to ECS again, but this time I'm not getting any replacements, because I'm just done with them. 3 sets with the same vibration that is gone as soon as they're removed tells me that something is wrong with them.

-Paul
2003 "M5" - S62/420g swap, M5 diff, M5 driveshaft, M5 brakes, M5 Traction Bars, Eibach Sway Bars, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Custom Exhaust,
BMW NBT Retrofit, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-Xenon Retrofit, M5 Extended Leather Interior Swap, APEX PS-7s, e60 Hubs, Koni Sports
Coming Soon - M5 Bumpers
530i 6-speed swap build thread

2003 530it6 - M54b30/S6S-420g swap, 3.15 540it diff, e60 SSK, VMR VB2 19" Wheels, M5 Gauge Cluster, Hella G4 Bi-xenon Retrofit, NBT Retrofit, Koni Sports, 540i Brakes

2001 749i6 - Retired and being parted out - M5Board Build Log
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