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This car hates me, spun bearing

9K views 31 replies 14 participants last post by  C4RACER 
#1 ·
I'm 99% sure this car hates me, nothing has ever been easy since I bought and I've done so much to restore it. Anyway I just installed new coilovers and rear control arms, back it out of the garage to set up the ramps to tighten the arms and the lower end starts knocking . I immediately pull it back in and shut it down. Checked the filter and it's clean, I'll pull the pan later this weekend and check the bearings.

Naturally this happens after I order the supercharger, so if I can't salvage the crank anyone want to buy super charger? I'm hoping I caught it in time and there is no crank or rod damage.

Also I think it's funny out of all the cars known for spinning bearings, I didn't think it would happen to the S62.

For the record 92k
 
#2 · (Edited)
Wow just like that? I was going off the notion that bearings spin due to high rpm and not just an unpredictable manner such as this. Might be something loose like a backed out bolt. Anyway if it just happened and was running only a few moments hope be with you. Since the interval is at 100k probably would be a great idea to change out your bearings before a supercharger install at 92k.
On the other hand pm if you want to sell your S/C im in the market at 147k original bearings (i think)
 
#5 ·
I'm pretty certain that's what it is, but in case I'm wrong it'll be good to do anyway. I'll know more this week and if it's totally toast we'll talk if not, you should do it anyway :)

Eh, I doubt there will be crank damage. My M5 had horribly spun bearings that were almost all down to the copper when I changed them, and the engine's been running great since I replaced the rod bearings. I think people overthink this and worry excessively. Change the bearings when they start to go bad and you'll be fine.
Yeah I'm hoping I caught it quickly enough with less then a minute of runtime, my concern would be crank or rod damage. Did you have any noise? I do agree that the whole bearing this is over thought, if I didn't I'd lose sleep over the ticking S54,S85, and S62 timebombs in the garage ;)
 
#3 ·
Eh, I doubt there will be crank damage. My M5 had horribly spun bearings that were almost all down to the copper when I changed them, and the engine's been running great since I replaced the rod bearings. I think people overthink this and worry excessively. Change the bearings when they start to go bad and you'll be fine.
 
#4 ·
How many miles did you have when you noticed they were bad?
 
#6 ·
What kind of supercharger and who wrote the software? Anyhow, seems to me that the bearings should have been checked prior to installing the suspension. All water under the bridge now though. Are you mechanically inclined? Do you have access to a cherry picker and tools? there are some M62 videos on youtube regarding a complete rebuild and if you search hard enough you'll find S62 stuff too. Please spend 6 minutes of your day watching this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZfQKg9UFco

The M60 is similar to the M62 which is similar to the S62. There are some details that are different as the how to lock the cams in place for timing between the M60/M62 and S62 +++, but the nice thing about the S62 is you don't require as many specialized tools. If the video does not seem unreasonable then please study the picture story below.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...8697-rod-bearing-chain-guide-replacement.html

If that doesn't seem overboard then all I can say is its not rocket science and there are plenty of people here to help too. Please keep us posted and if you want to sell that SC unit please advise either here or via PM make and model, thanks
 
#9 · (Edited)
Thanks guys, I feel better and danny made me think the rod and crank will be fine and just need a little clean up. Like I said minute I heard it and I verified what it was, I shut it down. There was no metal flakes in the filter or on the dip either so catching this in time is giving me wood.
 
#10 ·
Quick update... Pulled the lower pan, no chunks of metal a little glitter in the oil, I'm feeling like I caught this one in time. 1 and 5 feel tight, I can reach up from the lower pan, but it sounded like it was coming from 2 or 3 anyway.

Couple of things I noticed, oil pump and sprocket were nice and tight, I know this is a concern with the M62. The Driver side side scavenge solenoid had a few tar like chunks not really sludge more like roofing tar in it, not sure what it was but I cleaned it out and will hook them up the bench supply to make sure they work tonight.

The oil screen did it's job when it came to filtering out plastic(timing chain guide?), o ring materials and RTV sealant it( I assume the dealer got crazy with the RTV when they took the heads off for the SAP cleaning).

I hope to have the upper pan off tomorrow night.
 

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#13 ·
Can you replace the guides and button it back up? If the rods all feel good I wouldn't start pulling bearings until I was sure. You're in there to the point where [If I am recalling correctly] you can replace the tensioner without too much more disassembly.
At least you can put the pan back and restart briefly see if the 'slap' sound is gone.
 
#14 ·
The tensioner can be done with the engine in the car. It sits on the block below the passenger side cylinders.
 
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#16 ·
Yes I agree it's chain guide bits and that could be the issue as well. My goal when I first heard it was establish it wasn't lifter tick and coming from the bottom end, wasn't coming from an accessory, and wasn't normal, seeing it passed all three I didn't want to let it run any longer than needed.

At this point given the history of the the S engines and bearings, the mileage, I'm going S/C and the fact that the upper pan is ready to come off, I'm in for a penny and in for a pound at this point and will change them regardless.

I consider the chain guide bits a new problem discovered and will address it accordingly as well. Since the car is new to me but I have all the service records I will see if it was done and if so might hold off. Otherwise will probably end up doing after I break the new shells in.

I did do the tensioner when I first got it
 
#19 ·
At this point given the history of the the S engines and bearings, the mileage, I'm going S/C and the fact that the upper pan is ready to come off, I'm in for a penny and in for a pound at this point and will change them regardless.
Very wise IMHO.

Regards,
Jerry
 
#17 ·
You did the timing chain tensioner when you got it and still had timing chain guide failure? That sucks, thought I would be able to sleep easier after I replaced it.
 
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#20 · (Edited)
Best approach would be replacing the guides and bearings at the same time. At least few of those plastics bits are clearly from the central V-guide due to curve shape.

You have still clean engine but that doesn't remain that way if the chains bite the aluminum and create aluminum particles. These particles contaminate the oil and are embedded into the bearing surfaces. This accelerates bearing wear ruin new bearings quite fast.
 
#22 ·
Quick update

I finally got it all a part and luckily none were spun or showed excessive play. I pulled Cyl's 2 because , random, so I can inspect. Here is what it looked like.

It looks pretty normal for a BMW S Engine with 92K miles. It's down a layer and half, looks like it picked up some dirt at some point but did it's job and ate it instead of the crank journal. I'll clean and confirm the journal when I measure to know for sure.

All and all, I think I caught it in time and this was a good exercise before installing the S/C. I'll post the full set when I replace them, I'm ordering everything monday.

Thanks for all your feedback I <3 this community. Now it's time for :margarita: with the wife.
 

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#23 · (Edited)
Those bearings looks "so-so". I would certainly change them. I think you will probably be okay with just that. Check the crank very carefully.
 
#25 ·
Maybe his new tensioner failed in a new way. Maybe the plastic was already all beat to hell and was going to fall off at some point. Last maybe he used the wrong tensioner, either bought a 540 tensioner or the part guy substituted the 540 tensioner. No good guesses until it comes a part.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Update

I have the new shells on I'm buttoning up the car this morning. Wanted to contribute the picture of the shells to the forum as well as the condition of things.

Previous owner used the dealer on recommend intervals with 5w30.

1)8 was the worst as far as wear, which I did get misfires in 8 when the car was ran for >20 minutes. Possibly could be related but not sure if it's a chicken or egg thing.

2)5 was slightly spun but maybe 1/16 to 1/8 of inch out of alignment.

3)7 seemed to have particle damage.

Despite all of the above the crankshaft was in perfect condition.
 

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#29 ·
5W30 ah the horror !


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Lolz I didn't post it for any other reason than info. I don't actually think oil weight makes a difference at all. Though I will switch to 10w60, but only as a convenience because I'm stocked with it. It bothers me to pick up 0w20 for the wife's car and the bottles look out of place on the shelf in the sea of 10w60 .
 
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