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Picked up a new noise yesterday. Fun Fun! Carrier Bearing? Video

2K views 25 replies 6 participants last post by  Thumper600 
#1 · (Edited)
Howdy, On my ride home yesterday, I couldn't help but notice a new noise. I'm thinking carrier bearing.

Description:

Rapid clicking/card in spokes/clicking frog sound
Best heard from 10-40 mph or so while coasting in gear
Speed dependent
Only apparent for first mile or so of operation then gone
Apparently louder on outside than inside of car verified while coasting past building....could hear the sound reflection.
Sounds like coming from passenger side, cant tell front or rear.
Video sound gathering indicates coming from under console area

Recent activities:
Lots of donuts shredding old tires
New wheels and tires with 3mm spacers all around
Thats it.
Checked tire to strut clearance on front, tiny rub mark.....wouldn't make this noise either...probably wouldn't go away if it was caused by rubbing.
Checked all around wheels and BBK for any interference. Brakes are close, but not touching anywhere.....once again, probably wouldn't go away.
CHecked all around wheel wells and no interference anywhere

I'm leaning towards carrier bearing...noise is from worn bearings clicking around, probably dry, then quiets down as it heats up.

What do you think??


https://youtu.be/qWiW-jGyhXA


Edit: Extra ///M emblem on the dash gives me 20 more HP......ugh, more rice from PO. It currently looks better than the mess it leaves behind from removing. I do have a nice set of tech graphite trim sitting in my shop at home for a rainy day!
 
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#2 · (Edited)
My money is on the CV joint on the front of the diff. The card in the spokes sound gives it away. Mine failed last fall. Pretty easy fix once the exhaust is out of the way. I think the center bearing would give a constant hum or clunking noise. Could be guibo too. Get the car in the air and you should be able to figure it out quickly. There should be no backlash in the CV.
Several years ago I had a similar noise that I thought was the CV but turned out to be broken diff gears, so that is a possibility as are the output shaft CVs. In that case the noise was always there when loaded or coasting. This time with the CV it went away mostly when off load and coasting. If you've been beating on it, it could be any of these.
Here is the thread from my issue last fall.
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/464561-rear-end-rattle.html
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the ideas, I'll check them out. The noise is independent of acceleration, deceleration or coasting and the fact that it goes away means that it isn't a gear failure. No new vibrations or anything. I'll get under there and check it out soon. Last time I looked my guibo wasn't very happy looking, but I've seen worse in the past. Axles guibo and driveshaft all replaced 80k miles or so ago.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I wish Florida had hills. It would make driving infinitely more interesting. :). Flat, straight, over enforced and boring around here!

The wheels/driveshaft rpm will always be related, there is no separating the 2
 
#7 ·
SOLVED!!! Axles. Lame

Put the car on stands, put it in gear. Really easy to find the culprits. As seen in the video, took me about 30 sec to find the source of the noise. Wheel side CV joints, more so on passenger side as heard from inside the car. Check out the video to hear it at the source.

http://youtu.be/GnrnGYSn9RU
 
#8 ·
Make sure that when you were shredding tires, something didn't get wrapped up or bend the sheet metal around the brake disc. That sounds like something hitting a piece of stamped steel. I think the rears have those dust/cooling plates? Good luck.
 
#9 ·
Has anyone ever heard axles clicking like this before and making this sound? You would think that they would tend to all fail in a similar fashion.

Gzig, I'll check for any foreign objects. You can see the boot move outward directly in phase with the click/knocks. Easier to see on the driver side that only has 1 knock per revolution. You can see it on the passenger side too, but it really goes inward during the only part of the revolution that does not click/knock.

Anyone seen or heard anything similar with failing axles?
 
#12 ·
Has anyone ever run their car in gear on stands and had no noise like this? Just wondering if the axles are making noise just because of the extreme angle due to the wheels off the ground.

Taking the car off the road this evening to dig further into this and isolate the issue. Going to pull the wheels and run again to get a better look/hear. The guibo is about toast, but I cant see it making the in-car sound as the sound does not change with load....a dwindling guibo would be doing very different things with load and without. I had one previously turn to a ball of spaghetti with the only indicators being a vibration under acceleration.

We'll see. Next would be to detach the axles from the diff and see if the diff itself is making any noise.

I'll get it figured out.....add it to the list! :smile
 
#14 ·
Last time I ran mine up on stands all I heard was the bad CV joint. A car without a problem will not make any funky noises when run on stands, in my experience.
 
#15 ·
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
 
#17 ·
This does sound strange. :grin

What could blower bearings have to do with a vehicle speed dependent sound?
 
#19 ·
that "whine" more reminiscent of a small bearing failure rather then a large one. but you're right, the whine is speed dependent. it's not coming through the radio, (like the old AM radios when you drove past electrical lines), perhaps the best bet is to jack up the rear of the car, put it in gear and listen from underneath. if it's the Guibo or Carrier they should make noise, if it's the axle that might be laod dependent. Any way's, sorry to have lead you in the wrong direction
 
#20 · (Edited)
If you are referring to a whine in the 1st video, you are right that it would be blower noise. Check out the 2nd vid (bottom of 1st page) for the actual noise I am referring to

No worries, I appreciate any and all insight. :)
 
#21 · (Edited)
Few months ago, I had what I would describe as "Card Clicking in spokes" sound that occurred occasionally on startup, but generally went away after a few minutes.

A few days later, my water pump seized up, shredding my belts. New pump and belts, and all is back to normal.

I have a 2000 M5 with 61k miles, original water pump.

FWIW
 
#22 ·
I wouldnt be half surprised if the noise goes away when I remove the rear wheels. Awfully coincidental timing....add new wheels, suddenly new noise...heard at the wheels... We'll see.

Been working on my F250 taking care of a couple issues it has so I can decommission the ///M for a while and dive into this problem and take care of a bunch of other stuff as well. The F250 Had a rear brake that was sticking. Got that done, now some sensor is getting flaky and making the motor surge randomly. Dont want to decommission the 5 until I know my truck isnt about to leave me stranded. When it rains it pours!

I must say that I love working on the 7.3 diesel and truck compared to the M5! I changed the CPS yesterday. It required a 10mm ratchet and less than 10 min including time to grab a beer. Cost $30! Didnt fix it though... Rear caliper was sticking. $60 at Advance Auto, 20 min and 2 bolts....done!
 
#24 · (Edited)
Haha, If it were, I wouldn't have the Beast! The truck is great for towing boats, hauling stuff like M5 parts, and gettin dirty! The M5 is infinitely better at everything else. After wrenching on my beast for the past 5 months or so, it was refreshing to work on my truck. Go to the local parts store, pay a cheap price for a decent part, and have it installed in a simple and straight forward manner in less time than it takes to drink a beer! Working on the beast requires clearing my schedule, holding all calls, and emptying out my bank account. But for some sick, demented reason, I kind of like it. :devil
 
#25 · (Edited)
Solved solved solved! Easy! Yay!

Well, I knew the timing of the new noise was way too coincidental with the installation of new wheels. While installing the wheels, I also installed new 3mm wheel spacers on all corners with new lug bolts that were 5mm longer than the OE lugs. (OE is 28mm, I installed 33mm). I had read in previous threads that lugs a little too long were no big deal so I figured the extra 2mm wouldn't hurt anything right?

I took the back wheels off. Fired up the car and put it in 4th gear. Got out and looked around. No noise. Excellent, so what's rubbing on the wheels then!! Looked all over calipers and wheels, no marks to be found.....hmmm....you know what, let's check those lug bolts....BINGO!!

They are just a touch under 3mm too long! Right at the end of the threads behind the rotor in the 12:00 position is some part of the e brake assembly....literally right behind where the threads end. Bolts protruding just a touch outside the back of the rotor=interference and clicking noise. Solution, order up some 30mm bolts and be done with it.

I wish all M5 issues were this cheap and easy to fix!

Best part is my axles do not need to be replaced!!!!!! :woowoo:
 

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