I've had my M5 for almost a year now, and I'm about to roll over the 100,000 mile mark. It's a very early USDM (March 2000, i believe). I've been doing my research about what I should replace and inspect, but I want to make sure i've got all the items, and can get them properly prioritized. The car has been in the family since it was new, and i've digitized the service records for any interested party to look over.
UPDATE:
I forgot to mention that the car is almost certainly down on power and does sound slightly like my wife's TDI. The car feels no faster, if not slower, than my STI which is only 300 hp and has more driveline loss, albeit less weight.
http://www.filedropper.com/m5maintenance
(I uploaded it to an external site because i was given an error when attaching an .xls that the maximum file size was 0KB)
So far i've come up with this:
Sensors:
CPS x4
Pre-cat O2
MAF x2
Spark Plugs
Chain Guides...less sure on this
Tensioners...ditto
Vanos:
Rebuild the vanos units with new o-rings (OEM vs Dr Vanos?)
Update to the covers with 4 clamping screws
Test selonoids
Install the "oil pressure accumulator"
and of course get INPA (or DIS?) installed.
I'd love any feedback, especially given the maintenance that's been performed.
Does the vanos make noise? If not I would leave that be. Ditto with chain guides. Plugs for sure - just did mine at 92K and car runs smoother now. CPS sensors not a bad idea but you could also wait until one fails and replace them all. Once in a blue moon mine throw a code but 99.9pct of the time they work good so I have let them be. Same deal with O2 sensors.
If anything I would replace suspension bushings front and rear and shocks before doing the motor stuff if the car runs well.
So it seems the diff and tranny fluids were replaced in 2011 - is that correct? I'd change every 50K miles; the same for spark plugs. If your CPSs were all original I'd do them. It seems that only one is original at this point (I could be misreading the spreadsheet); in that case it may make sense to wait for one to fail and then replace them all. But you can't be faulted for wanting a clean start! I replaced my original CPSs at 90K just because I didn't want to wait for them to fail, as well as the pre-cat O2 sensors. But part of me realized that new parts can fail and everything was working well...Since your MAFs are > 10 years old, I'd do that as well, although you could do the old fashioned MAF test first (http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...788-how-test-mafs-yourself-how-mafs-work.html). Personally I'd leave the VANOS alone unless they are causing problems.
Other recs:
It seems that you have the original fuel pump in the car (I may have missed it, I saw the fuel filter was replaced a few times). Unless you want to get stranded somewhere, replace it now. After reading about how fan clutches can seize and wreak havoc (one of many examples: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/128834-fan-clutch-seized-pow.html) I replaced mine about four years ago. If your air filters really are from 2008, replace those for sure.
It's nice that the car has been in the family since new! Here's wishing to many more miles of use.
I just added fuel pump and fan clutch to the list to research.
I should add that the car does sound a little diesel like at idle, and seems to be down on power. Its roughly as quick as, but maybe a little slower than, my STI. The STI is AWD and only 300 hp, but maybe a little lighter.
I'll pick up all four filters and swap them this weekend.
CPS sensors made a HUGE improvement for me when I replaced them. I have an 09/99 build, and the sensors were dated 1999. Replaced them around ~63.5k miles, I was barely making 300HP on the dyno. No codes, no engine light, nothing until you hooked it up to a computer did it spit out a VANOS bank 1 issue. Swapped sensors, no ghosts, no lights, no 'real' codes, power is back.
If VANOS isn't broke, I wouldn't touch it either. Mine sounds a little like a diesel too, but I've had no issues with it. I do plan on replacing the tensioner though. I have the part just haven't got around to swapping it out.
Mostly agree with the above however you say the car is down on power. There's a good chance this is related to old MAFS and/or VANOS not functioning optimally. You could do some testing with INPA/DIS specifically fuel trims and doing the DIS VANOS test. Those may help narrow down the problem.
Or you could just replace the usual suspects.
Personally I would replace the MAFS, CPS x 4, O2S x 4, fuel filter, plugs, and do VANOS maintenance- O rings, remove the brown filters, and blow out the noids. Also scan for any codes.
I'd look over the suspension too if that hasn't been done in a long time. I had mine overhauled and they basically had to replace all the components. All the various ball joints, tie rods, etc. were completely gone. The wheel bearings were worn as well.
The car feels superb after getting all this done.
I would also check the fan clutch, the CPS O-rings, and various gaskets. While doing the spark plugs, look for damage or oil. If your fuel filter hasn't been replaced, it's probably clogged. If the fuel pump is original, it'll fail on you at some point. Mine failed at the 85K mark.
Are you just looking for engine parts to replace, or anything?
Here are some of the non-obvious-to-me things I've done, or will be doing soon:
Valve cover gaskets probably need some work. While in there there are other things you can do, such as:
- Check for vacuum leaks
- Fuel evaporation purge valve ( causes vacuum issues and throws all kinds of crazy SES codes)
- Clean the oil separators, you will almost certainly want to replace some of the hoses in that area too
- There is a vanos oil regulator valve (part 11361407095) -- cheap but I'm not sure if you need to take VANOS parts off too.
Definitely do the engine and transmission mounts, they are cheap and easy in the E39 luckily.
Thrust arm bushings -- it is impossible to be gentle with 400 hp.
Sway bar end links -- cheap & easy & rattle-prone
Fan clutch
Mounts for the oil filter and power steering reservoir housings. (cheap & easy, and they rattle sometimes)
CLEAN the MAFs first. That made a huge difference in mine.
I had my mechanic rebuild my VANOS for far less than Dr Vanos (he's about $250).
My 140k motor had a stretched chain that the VANOS was compensating for. Something to think about.
Other than that just keep driving it.
I also did the secret menu test 4.2, and found that I was hitting ~135 at WOT, so it appears as if the MAFs are at least pretty ok. Would the MAF readings be that high if the VANOS and/or CPS were out of whack?
Other things mentioned:
Fan clutch - Added to list
Valve Cover Gaskets - Last done in 2011
Rod Bearings - I'll have to research what's involved in diagnoising/fixing, but that sounds like it might be beyond the scope of my "garage" work area.
Fuel Pump - I've looked into the upgrade to the Aeromotive
Fuel Filter - Done in 2011
AOS - I was under the impression the AOSes were just swirl pots and didn't really require cleaning?
Suspension - Right now I'm more interested in shoring up small problems that can become bigger ones later. There are, i'm sure, a million bushings and whatnot that can be replaced. That'll come later.
PS and Oil Filter Mounts - McMaster special a few weeks ago. Old ones were toast.
I see lots of install guides for INPA (I think i have it installed now, just misplaced my OBD-II cable, and may need to order the 16-20 pin adapter for the pac man in the engine bay). However, there are pretty much NO DIS guides, and DIS is needed for VANOS tests.
I also may get the injectors cleaned this winter when the car'll be hibernating anyways.
I got Carly for Bmw's working on my google tablet, and I have the correct OBDII connector [usb] as well as a USB -> MicroUSB adapter cable. IF you want let me know we can meet up and I can pull all the computer codes as well as re-code your alarm functions [Windows UP when alarm is enabled on lock for example].
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