Clutch Failure? - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

Stuart.Levy · 12th October 2004, 21:38

OK, so I know that E39 M5's will eat clutches when they are driven hard regularly. I'm on my 2nd clutch, 54k miles on the car. 21k miles on this clutch.

Over the weekend, this clutch let go with an abrupt bang (more felt than heard) while accelerating onto the highway. No warning at all, it just acted like it popped out of gear. In fact, I dropped my hand down to the shifter to see if it was out of gear.

I have two questions?
1) Does this make sense? There was no slip whatsoever beforehand. In fact, it was just at the dealer for 2 days last week for warranty service and they concurr it wasn't slipping. Is there anything I should check before I take their word for it and pay for a replacement?

2) VOB in Rockville is telling me that a new one will be $1550. When I did this 21000 miles ago, it only cost me $500 because of extenuating circumstances for which VOB funded half of a warranty replacement cost. Is the cost of $1550 appropriate?

Sorry, guess that was really more than 2 questions. Any help and/or advice is appreciated.

Lscman · 12th October 2004, 22:52

Firstly, I would not install another defective or inadequate 9-5/8" clutch. Why absorb recurring labor fees? The proper corrective action is to install a UUC 11" clutch. Ford and Chevy cars with 1/2 the horsepower you have employ 10.5" and 11" clutches. See the advertizers above for the solution.

Secondly, I would aggressively pursue warranty repair for $0 fee. The failure you describe has nothing to do with clutch burnout abuse and should be fully covered.

I question whether the failure you describe is a bad clutch. It sounds like something in the drivetrain let go like the tranny or differential. Can we assume the tranny shifts OK and you have no propulsion in any of the 7 gears?

Stuart.Levy · 12th October 2004, 23:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lscman

Firstly, I would not install another defective or inadequate 9-5/8" clutch. Why absorb recurring labor fees? The proper corrective action is to install a UUC 11" clutch. Ford and Chevy cars with 1/2 the horsepower you have employ 10.5" and 11" clutches. See the advertizers above for the solution.

Secondly, I would aggressively pursue warranty repair for $0 fee. The failure you describe has nothing to do with clutch burnout abuse and should be fully covered.

I question whether the failure you describe is a bad clutch. It sounds like something in the drivetrain let go like the tranny or differential. Can we assume the tranny shifts OK and you have no propulsion in any of the 7 gears?

Interesting on the 11" clutch. I'll look into it. I wish I could prove the "no burnout abuse" statement, because they see some bluing on the flywheel which is indicative of this. I'm aggressive but no longer have a need to do burnouts. Also, you're correct that i have no forward or rearward propulsion. I can get the car to move, but it honestly feels like its slipping the clutch and it only moves the car a bit. A friend told me it sounds like a broken clutch spring, which still isn't covered under my extended warranty