AA improved air intake - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

mr_bock · 12th October 2004, 15:23

I have been running the Active Autowerkes Cold Air Intake since last summer. I have had the front bumper off several times for other installs (electric engine fan, remote air temp sensor, etc...). Each time I had access to the air tubes, I would try to seal up air leaks to create a 'ram' air path. Well just the other day I noticed the plastic air tubes were not aligned and were actualy restricting the flow. Without removing the bumper or the front wheels, I was able to remove the black plastic air tubes and the aluminum air box that the flex air hose connected to. I found that I could twist the air hose and connect the hose right to the aluminum fitting in the plastic mesh. After tightening the clamp, I found that if I just folded over the portion of the aluminum air box that extended in front of the box opening, I could mount it up and still have mounting points for the air pan. Now I have a direct air path to the air filter boxes. I an not concerned about rain getting in as there are drain holes in the filter box and it would be dificult for water to travel that far up. I will check this the next time I am out on a rainy day. As to the butt-o-meter I have to say I really do feel a big difference. I think this complements the other mods.

SC'dKellenersM5 · 12th October 2004, 15:31

interesting....

Tin · 12th October 2004, 16:01

hmm.... quite a good idea, except that you've taken away cooling away from the brakes.. unless you feeding another pipe towards the inner grill area..

mr_bock · 12th October 2004, 16:27

My inner plastic fender well does not have the holes for the air and I did not want to cut them as I feel the air would only hit the back of the dust shield. Unless you have ducted dust shields that put the air where it is needed. These could be piped to an area around the fog lights. I also felt that the AA air path did not put enough air to the intake filters. With so many gaps and leakage areas, the air flow would always take the path of least resistance, i.e. right out the brake duct. Now the air cloumn to the air filter box is always packed at speed. I don't know if I will dyno this as I would have to find a way to simulate air flow at speed (a leaf blower?). Right now all I know is that it feel great.

MAH · 12th October 2004, 18:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr_bock

My inner plastic fender well does not have the holes for the air and I did not want to cut them as I feel the air would only hit the back of the dust shield. Unless you have ducted dust shields that put the air where it is needed. These could be piped to an area around the fog lights. I also felt that the AA air path did not put enough air to the intake filters. With so many gaps and leakage areas, the air flow would always take the path of least resistance, i.e. right out the brake duct. Now the air cloumn to the air filter box is always packed at speed. I don't know if I will dyno this as I would have to find a way to simulate air flow at speed (a leaf blower?). Right now all I know is that it feel great.

I have the same setup, but I do have the ducting to the brakes as well. I never saw the issues you mentioned with regards to air leaks. Of course I have not removed the front bumper lately. Did these leaks occur over time?

I have had the AA CAI for the better part of two years and there is no way to realize the posative impact from this modification on a dyno no matter how much air you try and force into those intakes. I suppose it is in theory, possible to simulate the ram air effect, but no one has been able to.

Mark

BTW - I like the AA CAI. I would do it again.

mr_bock · 12th October 2004, 18:14

The air leaks are the gaps and lose fitting between the plastic tubes (AA CAI) that just sit behind the aluminum inlets in the grill. I tried using Heating/Air conditioning aluminum tape to close off and seal the openings. This is hard to do because of the way these fit together along with the bumper. Anyway, running the hose direct solves all of this. I do have to remember to release the hoses when the bumper has to come off. Any excess air pressure being forced into the inlets from forward motion of the car has only a couple of small vent holes in the air box.

MAH · 12th October 2004, 18:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr_bock

The air leaks are the gaps and lose fitting between the plastic tubes (AA CAI) that just sit behind the aluminum inlets in the grill. I tried using Heating/Air conditioning aluminum tape to close off and seal the openings. This is hard to do because of the way these fit together along with the bumper. Anyway, running the hose direct solves all of this. I do have to remember to release the hoses when the bumper has to come off. Any excess air pressure being forced into the inlets from forward motion of the car has only a couple of small vent holes in the air box.

I am still confused. Did the openings in the hoses occur because of a faulty install or are the hoses too short to fit properly against the fittings?

Can you see these problems by looking in the wheel wells with the wheels turned all the way to one side? If not, how did you discover the problem?

Thanks,

Mark

cali6869 · 12th October 2004, 18:39

I did something similar on my car last week. I installed the sink drains in my front lower grille, then I connected the the sink drains to some hose.... the other end of the hose goes to the airboxes. Now, what is different on my kit? what I noticed is that those pipes (the snorkel tubes from airbox to the front bumper) had good fitting, so I decided to cut them and then connect my hose to it....
all I can say its that my car feels way better, car feels more powerful and not restricted.
then last week I also installed GruppeM intakes, and boy the car feels powerfull, I will dyno the car soon just to see if there are any gains.

mr_bock · 12th October 2004, 20:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAH

I am still confused. Did the openings in the hoses occur because of a faulty install or are the hoses too short to fit properly against the fittings?

Can you see these problems by looking in the wheel wells with the wheels turned all the way to one side? If not, how did you discover the problem?

Thanks,

Mark

The gaps I am talking about have nothing to do with the hoses (no damaged parts). It is because there is no air tight seal between the black molded plastic tube that sits just behind the grill duct. Then there is no seal where the same plastic tube sits inside the aluminum air box. If the brake duct opening is not sealed there, the air will just rush through and out and not exactly into the hose up to the air filter box. I tried to tape all of these different sections together but it is too much hanging out while trying to get the bumper back on. Ram air intake is just that, ram it in, no leaks except that that goes into the engine when the valves open. The faster you go, the more air pressure at the valve ready to go in.

FAST 5 · 12th October 2004, 20:26

We would all be grateful if you were to post PICS of what exactly you are describing, since this will answer many questions that can't be described in words. PICS PLEASE!