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Old 2nd July 2004, 22:57   #1
BlueBomber
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TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

I've been slacking for way too long. Here are the instructions on replacing the intake camshaft position sensor (problem discussed earlier in this thread)...

Disclaimer - I'm not a mechanic, nor will I ever be. Follow these directions at your own risk!!

First, the problem...

The SES light was off and on for a few weeks. There were a number of different faults being thrown. I also noticed that occassionally, a deep low rumble would appear almost sounded like I had a hole in my muffler. After resetting the lights a few times, and trying to debug the problem I noticed that only two errors were constantly being thrown, MAFS fault and camshaft
position sensor (CPS) fault (with the CPS errors being thrown first). Since the CPS error was listed first and cheaper, I decided to replace this first. The error reported that intake CPS for cylinders 1-4 was possibly faulty.

Tools/Parts Needed:
* Intake CPS (also called a pulse generator) - Costs around ~$80 USD (dependent on where you buy it and various discounts; e.g. - CCA).
* O-ring - $1-2 USD
* Flat head screwdriver - medium size
* 5 mm allen wrench - I'm fairly certain this is the correct size
* Bright light!
* Small hands preferred

Time Required:
* Roughly 30 minutes. I could probably do it in 15 minutes after running through it once. Leave yourself one hour just in case. Make sure you understand what to do before doing it!!

Directions:
The following directions are provided for removing the intake CPS for Cylinders 1-4 (left side of engine when facing the front of the car). If you need to replace the intake CPS for Cylinders 5-8, the instructions will be the same.

Step 1 - Removal of the Airduct

In order to gain access to the intake CPS, you'll need to remove the airduct which connects the airfilter to the firewall. It's located at the top of the engine bay on your left hand side. Unfortunately, I don't have a nice pic with an arrow pointing to it.

First, you'll need to unhook five tabs connecting the airduct to the air filter box. There are three tabs on top (see three horizontal arrows in picture attached) and two underneath. Gently use your flat head screwdriver to pry them off. Once all five tabs are free you are ready to remove the airduct.

Using one hand grab the airduct near the base where it is connected to the firewall. Use your other hand to steady the rest of the duct. GENTLY twist/swivle the air duct upwards so that the part of the airduct connected to the air filter box is pointed upwards (The TIS instructions caution that using excess force could damage the firewall... bad thing to do!).

Once it's pointed, upwards, you should be able to easily pull the airduct out. Experience has shown that that removal of the airduct is much easier than putting it back in!!

Picture of airduct removed... the set of three yellow arrows on the right show the little tabs that are used to keep the airduct in place.



This picture is a closeup of the airduct and you can see how it is connected to the firewall. So removing it requires twisting and pull out towards you.



Step 2 - Locating the intake CPS

Once you've removed the airduct you'll need to find the intake CPS. The picture below aids in it's location.



Step 3 - Removing the connector

Here is are two pictures of the intake CPS removed. The 1st picture show how the CPS is oriented in the car (the screw is at the highest point). The second picture shows the bottom portion of the sensor and the old O-ring. The plug you need to remove is simply connected via a tab. Disconnect this first.

First pic...


Second pic...


Once disconnected, you can unscrew the single bolt (5mm allen wrench) used to keep the sensor in place.

Step 4 - Install new intake CPS

The BMW TIS instructions stated that you should first screw in the new intake CPS first but I found it easier to connect the plug first and then screw the intake CPS in place. Do what you feel is comfortable...

Step 5 - Putting airduct back in place

Once you've got the CPS sensor in place and the connector attached, it's time to put the airduct back in place. This is the trickiest part of the whole process. I recommend studying the tabs on the firewall and slots in the airduct (see above pics) a bit. Once you've understood how it fits, putting it back in is just a matter of patience. When everything lines up, it should easily twist back into place. I found that I needed to push the airduct in and
turn the duct back down to get it locked in place. Again... be GENTLE. Don't force the airduct to snap in... you don't want to break any thing.

Once the airduct has been locked in place to the firewall. Reattached the five tabs to the airduct. It should be fairly easy to lock each in place. If you got quite a bit of distance, then the airduct was probably not put back in correctly.

Step 6 - Test drive

When I test drove the car for the first time, it ran REALLY rough; lots of hesitation and such. I thought I had just trashed my car. I pulled over and waited a minute or so. After that no more hesitation and everything ran perfectly. You probably need to let it run idle for a couple minutes. SES lights never returned and I never saw the camshaft position sensor error again!

Notes - Replacing the intake CPS for cylinders 5-8 is a bit more difficult since there is not a clear path to the sensor. I'd recommend removing the right side airduct first and taking a look for yourself. If it's too difficult to reach then procedures are pretty much identical.


I've never written once of these TECH instructions before... if anything is confusing let me know and I'll try and clarify.

Last edited by BlueBomber; 2nd July 2004 at 23:02.
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Old 2nd July 2004, 23:48   #2
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Re: TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

Thanks Johnny that is a great help!
although I've got a misfire on cylinder 5.. which I believe is on the other side, when I go to change it, I'll take some pics for comparison.

Thanks again.

Tin
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Old 2nd July 2004, 23:52   #3
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Re: TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

It's just a little bit more challenging on the right side... I should have taken a pic when I removed the airduct. I'll try and do that this weekend.

J
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Old 5th July 2004, 12:34   #4
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Re: TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

I have faults code on CAM sensors..on diagnostics It says "Camsensor type 2"...I think it time to replace it

Anyone knows which one is this and where it is located???

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Old 5th July 2004, 14:27   #5
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Re: TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritter
sell the car Misha.. it's just crap anyways
to WHOM ...I can see you start to hate your Beast...
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Old 5th July 2004, 14:54   #6
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Re: TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritter
Yes it's pure SHIIIITcar..faults all the time..why buy a BMW anymore..tell me one reason Misha??? Me never more..bad quality & PROBLEM stand for BMW M5
Yes some probs...not major ones....what is you millage...
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Old 5th July 2004, 16:27   #7
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Re: TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritter
84.500 KM not too much...way tooooooooooo much small s***** faults all time.. Bmw can't handle the electronics it's pretty obvious.. i''ll go for Audi anytime.. at least they can handle the electronics better
I'll go for 211 E55....may be...if have more money then NEW M5....

Last edited by atomic80; 5th July 2004 at 16:41.
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Old 5th July 2004, 16:42   #8
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Re: TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

Ritter, please watch your language...
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Old 5th July 2004, 17:22   #9
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Re: TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritter
New M5 It looks not a car i'll buy it will have same problems as the old M5
Hopefully it will have less probs...Other cars have some faults as well...but mainly mechnical...

Yes I agree with you from the cars I've owned M5 has the most probs...small and big....still annoying ...
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Old 6th July 2004, 09:40   #10
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Re: TECH: Replacing intake Camshaft Position Sensor...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritter
Aga..this should be solved before they relese the M5 cars on the market.. it's not proffesionally built..Engine & electronics..the rest i have no complaints.. very nice built ..perfect quality of the interior and carbody...it's up to perfection on those points a REAL of ...BUT Engine and electronics probs
I will still buy it...HOPEFUlly...
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