thanks man. so how often are these to be replaced? would it make sense to do all four at once?
No. You only need to replace the offending sensor, i.e. the one that was throwing the fault. It'd be an expensive operation to replace them all and there would be no reason to do so.
Also, when you buy the CPS be sure to buy an o-ring as well. I forgot and had to make that annoying trip back to the dealer.
BTW I finally found the problem. A new friend offered to share his lift. When the car was on the lift I noticed two loose nuts on the header. My theory is that when the after market exhaust was installed by a previous owner, the shop that did the work must have needed to loosen these. As they are hard to get to, they then didn't tighten them (torque) as they should. Regardless, problem solved.
My car was experiencing the SES light on and off as well, as well as rough idling in sport mode, so I pulled the code and it was "camshaft sensor bank 2 - over-timing." I went ahead and purchased an inlet camshaft sensor from the $tealership, replaced, and so far no SES light and no rough idling during/after sports mode. I did the install from under the car and it was tough because the space was so tight, but besides that, the install was very easy Dealer quoted me $425 parts and labor, with parts being $175 for a 20 minute job!!!
Here in OZ they are about AUD$400 (USD$330 or so) each... can anyone suggest a good online supplier to source them from as a friend of mine needs a set of intake CPS's
I checked the usual haunts and could not find anyone who stocks them.
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1999 Imola Red M5. Extended Caramel Interior Mods on my pre-update beast:Eisenmann "Race" exhaust (76mm tips), 19" Hamann PG2's, AACAI, Clear Angel Eyes, MK4 Nav, GC's M5 Coilover kit w/front camber plates, Dinan Front and rear sway bars, D/A swaybar mounts, Dinan front and rear strut brace, Braided brake lines, Eibach 3mm wheel spacers, Rogue Engineering underdrive pulleys, IATS Relocation, Powerchip, Xenon foglights & Lower engine covers w/Brake duct cutout
2008 Volkswagen Golf GTI. The wifes new car
2005 Ford Territory Ghia. The wifes car. (Sold)
1986 Toyota Landcruiser HJ75. The farm ute.
Last edited by aaronmiles; 21st March 2007 at 05:20.
I managed to get all 4 replaced but it was a severely difficult thing to get around that black bracket.
How in the WORLD do you remove that thing.
I found that i hadnt tightened them enough due to the black bracked being in the way and now they are leaking. In fact the only way i could get them off was by using a strap to pry the bracket away so i could cram an allen wrench in there. It took HOURS to do, made me wish i'd've payed to have it done, and even may end up paying someone to tighten them for me if i cant get that stupid bracket off.
I found it was much easier to replace the driver's side exhaust CPS if I disconnected the two left most (as seen from the driver's seat) heater core lines. Take these off, move them out of the way, and collect a little collant from the car underneath.
This will make access to the sensor a whole lot easier, and doesn't drain too much out of the car. You won't need a lift to get underneath, or make any special tools. just a 5mm allen socket.
Can I clarify as i've been reading through this thread i'm getting a little mixed up.
Where is :-Camshaft Exhaust Sensor on Bank 2 as you look from the front of the car to the rear. (UK right hand drive)
My car has just had the same FAULT Diagnosed so I will be looking to swap it to fix the problem HOPEFULLY. BMW Dealer £70.51 inc vat for part.
Call me tight but i'd rather do it myself if possible to save the pennies..
Just got the car 2x rear tyres, front discs pads etc, door seal, rear PDC sensor,Tax due this month also .
Dealer quoted me $425 parts and labor, with parts being $175 for a 20 minute job!!!
OH NO!
so I will be looking to swap it to fix the problem HOPEFULLY. BMW Dealer £70.51 inc vat for part.
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Linear Mode
