If I'm paying to have a clutch replaced out of pocket, it looks like you can go OEM, or UUC, with UUC being vastly more expensive. If I purchased a clutch online somewhere, frm a reputable place, what would the part cost?
Do you generally need to replace the flywheel as well?
What is a fair price to pay to have the clutch replaced in terms of labor?
On brakes, can be it be a DIY job. Doing brakes on my Audi A4 is fairly basic if you have a caliper retractor and some air tools. Is the M5 vastly complicated that one could not do it themselves? I'm speaking strictly pads and rotors?
What do new pads/rotors cost in general? What kind of labor if you paid someone?
If I'm paying to have a clutch replaced out of pocket, it looks like you can go OEM, or UUC, with UUC being vastly more expensive. If I purchased a clutch online somewhere, frm a reputable place, what would the part cost?
Do you generally need to replace the flywheel as well?
What is a fair price to pay to have the clutch replaced in terms of labor?
On brakes, can be it be a DIY job. Doing brakes on my Audi A4 is fairly basic if you have a caliper retractor and some air tools. Is the M5 vastly complicated that one could not do it themselves? I'm speaking strictly pads and rotors?
What do new pads/rotors cost in general? What kind of labor if you paid someone?
I have changed lots of brakes...and ironically enough the bmw's have been by far the simplest design..I always use sand paper and remove dirt/rust from all the mating surfaces, hub, wheel mounting face, rotor, unless new.. i also put a thin THIN! coat of protectant, grease,oil, or never-sieze on these surfaces to prevent corrosion....Also make sure you torque the lug nuts upon reassembly. I have only needed allen wrenches, metric sockets and wrenches for all of the above....Also don't let the calipers hang by the rubber flex hose, use a coat hanger or other to support the caliper after removed. This is also a good time to flush your brake system and bleed...
Steve
I have changed lots of brakes...and ironically enough the bmw's have been by far the simplest design..I always use sand paper and remove dirt/rust from all the mating surfaces, hub, wheel mounting face, rotor, unless new.. i also put a thin THIN! coat of protectant, grease,oil, or never-sieze on these surfaces to prevent corrosion....Also make sure you torque the lug nuts upon reassembly. I have only needed allen wrenches, metric sockets and wrenches for all of the above....Also don't let the calipers hang by the rubber flex hose, use a coat hanger or other to support the caliper after removed. This is also a good time to flush your brake system and bleed...
Steve
Uh, good info, but does anyone realize this is almost 2 years old?
Regards,
Jerry
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'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit
Old or not...does that mean it should not be reasked?? I think there are a lot of stupid questions asked here, however i view this as a valid question..And i'll bet 70% or more questions have already been asked and reasked and reanswered......Hmm is that why they call it a forum?
Steve
Old or not...does that mean it should not be reasked?? I think there are a lot of stupid questions asked here, however i view this as a valid question..And i'll bet 70% or more questions have already been asked and reasked and reanswered......Hmm is that why they call it a forum?
Steve
Not at all, that's why I said "good info". I have seen a few old posts get dredged up and the new person didn't realize it was old and not relevant. Just wanted to make sure you realized the original poster's questions had long ago been answered.
Regards,
Jerry
__________________
'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit
Admirable how folks (for the most part 'newbies') search the old posts, I really mean it! Power to you, as this generally involves more time and work than simply initiating a thread that may have been addressed a myriad of times...
Actually, I do find this post relevant and will pose a question on the clutch topic. With Dinan's sale, all of a sudden their pricing is a bit more 'digestible' which in turn has made me consider their high performance clutch vs. UUC's. Anyone with personal experience on one (or hopefully both) of these is strongly encouraged to comment and summarize their thoughts.
i've had dinan's clutch since what, maybe november. Unfortunately my car has been off the road 6 - 8 weeks in that time, long saga...
Original dinan clutch installed, i was a beta tester. Car had slight vibration at about 1800 rpm after install, and some difficulty getting into first when cold. My car previously had a slight vibration at 1200rpm, so i initially thought maybe just a different "frequency" because of less weight. I picked the car up after hours, so nobody to ask. I got a call from them a couple days later, asking how it was going, i mentioned my vibration and was told, 'doesn't sound right, bring it back in' which i did a couple weeks later. Turned out to be an installation issue. There is apparently a locating dowel pin on the crank, mine was a bit beat up due to past dealership clutch work, so dinan thought they'd put a new dowel in. Turns out there are different dowels, and they installed the wrong one, so my flywheel was not perfectly seated on the crank. They checked the ballance on the flywheel, all good, reassembled, vibration gone. I still had a little difficulty getting into first gear when cold, but it was better, and had a few leaks that i wanted cpo to cover.
2 weeks after that, got the car back from the dealer. A week or so later, back to dinan to check out the stiff shifting. They confirm this is not correct, feels like a bad pilot bearing, but a new one was installed at the reassemble time. They disassemble again, they think the clutch disc is warped, most liklely from my incorrectly installed flywheel. New clutch kit is installed. "While i'm in there" i figure good time to get throttle bodies. Some other issues occur (another story) which necessitate more work, and more mods 'while we're in there'....
So short story, clutch seemed goood, certianly no slip, no rollover noises, nice smooth engagement, but i've had some bad luck with installation issues and a lack of quality control. Mistakes happen, and dinan is making it right for me, but my patience is wearing thin...
Board member alpineblue has had the clutch for awhile too, no problems at all.
mike
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Mike
91 M5 Alpine White II, Silver Gray 3/90 production
17x8/17x9 M system with PS2, 20mm touring roll bar; Ground Control Coilovers; EAT Chip, CD43; bmw/nardi blackline steering wheel, 3.8 Cam Gears
08 535i / 6 speed
Space Gray; Gray; Sport/Premium/Nav
00 M5 Ti Silver; Imola/black sportiv --Sold
Engine:
Supersprint Headers, Dinan CAI kit and MAFS, Throttle Bodies, Cams, Ported heads, Exhaust, Custom dinan software, Evosport Pullies, Dinan clutch and lightened flywheel; Ignition solutions plasma coils
Suspension:
Dinan Stage 3 with front and rear Strut Tower Braces, Beastpower Sway bar brackets, Dinan Wheels with 275/285 PilotSport, X5 Thrust arm bushings, Stoptech 355mm 4 piston front, 355mm 2 piston rear brake kit, Dinan 3.45 diff
Interior/Misc:
Eurodash, updated steering wheel, Bluetooth retrofit, Sirius Retrofit, hardwired V1, Widescreen Mk4 nav, M audio retrofit, Ice Link, BSW Stage 1 speaker upgrade, bmw towbar
Cheers Mike, I was hoping a response would come from you since you have had experience with the Dinan clutch. Thanks for sharing.
While I technically don't need a clutch replacement asap, I am really likely pushing its limits considering it is still original and I have almost 3-sigma more miles than the (largely dispursed) average I have to say that I am 'babying' it, which in turn affects the level of 'spirit' involved in driving. Until Dinan came out, the options for a high performance M5 clutch were really limited. Most folks went the UUC way, but reading a thread as of today, the number of unhappy users is alarming. Add that to call it 'pre-existing' grudges against the retailer, then I am more or less left with either an OEM replacement, or Dinan. A few more reassuring comments by Dinan users will likely be all I need to make up my mind.
It might boil down to numbers. Can someone summarize what the costs are for a stock replacement vs. Dinan vs. UUC, vs. any other alternative - I see various numbers thrown around to the point it's gotten confusing. Labor is the same, so parts alone (plus applicable discounts) is the relevant factor (plus of course reliability, fitment issues, warranty, etc.)
(Mike I assume you have the lightened flywheel as well as the componentry as mixing and matching with OEM is not recommended? Also, Dinan claims a noticeable feel in throttle response - has that been the case for you?)
I have to say that I am 'babying' it, which in turn affects the level of 'spirit' involved in driving. Until Dinan came out, the options for a high performance M5 clutch were really limited. Most folks went the UUC way, but reading a thread as of today, the number of unhappy users is alarming. Add that to call it 'pre-existing' grudges against the retailer, then I am more or less left with either an OEM replacement, or Dinan. A few more reassuring comments by Dinan users will likely be all I need to make up my mind.
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