It's getting to be race season again for many of us, and I've been getting a few pm's about running the 1/4 mile, so here's some things that worked for me. Most is what I've learned is from running maybe a thousand 1/4 miles over the years, but realize that this is only my opinion, and what works for me may not work for you. Some of the key M5 points were learned from board member "bluemax", a professional drag racer and THE KING of M5 1/4 mile, running mid-12's with his beast.
1) Plan your race trip so that you are racing with air temperatures between 50 and 70F. Winds need to be calm, or better yet, a strong tail wind! Low humidity, and the higher the atmospheric pressure, the better. Plan your fuel so that you have about 1/3 of a tank of premium fuel when you arrive at the track. Fuel weighs 6 pounds per gallon, and you don't want too much, or worse - too little, when racing.
2) When you get to the track, open the hood and let the motor cool. Heat soak resulting in increased charge temperatures is not your friend at the track.
3) Now gut the car. Remove floor mats, cel phones, owners manuals, radar detectors, all tools, M-Mobility, umbrellas, etc. You will be surprised how much all this stuff weighs.
4) Tire pressure: Max out the air pressure in the front tires - 50. 32 worked best for me in the rears.
5) Before your run, make sure all unnecessary electrical systems are OFF. DSC OFF! SPORT ON! Don?t bother with a big smoky burnout in the water box. With stock tires, I drive around the water box and do a quick dry burnout to clean the tires.
6) Ignore the guy in the other lane - your opponent is the clock. Carefully examine the launch area. Many times the best traction isn't where everyone else is launching, but slightly off-center. Shallow stage. This means slowly and carefully pull up to the start until the first yellow staging light illuminates, then stop as soon as the second yellow staging light illuminates, and no deeper. Shallow-staging allows for more rollout before tripping the timing equipment. This means your car is already rolling (head start) before starting the clock. You will lose some consistency in your run-to-run times by shallow-staging, but if your goal is 12 seconds, this is the thing to do.
7) Make sure your car is pointed absolutely straight down the track and remains perfectly straight all of the way. Even a slight wandering or correction will kill your time.
8) I tried 1500-2000 rpm launches, and 2000 worked the best. Do not move the gas pedal until the tires hook up. The natural tendency is to FLOOR IT when the green light shines. DON'T DO IT! My car wheel-hops so badly under full power, you would think the whole back end will fall off. That's if you don't kill your clutch first. Wait until the tires hook. With some practice, you can actually feel the suspension "load up" -the weight shifting to the drive wheels. That's when you floor it. This will also preserve your delicate clutch.
9) The tachometer is slow and can't keep up with the quick-revving S62 motor, especially in first and second gear. You certainly don't want to hit the rev limiter, so shift at an indicated 6500rpm. In third and fourth you can run it out a little more, maybe 6700. You must change gears without letting up on the gas pedal, and shift mercilessly as hard and as fast as you possibly can. Just as a test, I quick-shifted fourth gear letting up on the gas, and it cost about a tenth of a second!
10) Just remember to keep the car pointed straight, and STAND on the go-pedal all of the way through the finish line.
11) Be persistent, and expect your first runs to be high 13's. Take 4-8 runs. You will need to adjust the tire pressure in the rears before each run. Now shut down the car (with the hood up!) and go watch the other guys race for an hour or two. Your cooled-down car will run much better. Now run again. This is the one that counts. If everything goes well, you will collect your 12-second time slip from the timing booth!