I will be picking up a 00 or 01, wish I could get a new M5, but it’s not an option.
1. Are there any noticeable differences between and 00 & 01 in regards to stock RWHP dyno ratings?
2. What about external visual differences, what differentiates an 00 vs 01
3. Any major suspension difference, again I’m talking stock vs stock
Basic point, I’d rather spend a little more $$’s if there is substantial evidence that an 01 is better than an 00, or vice versa.
Most 02’s are still priced a little high for what I want to spend, but… if the 02’s dyno’d higher than 00 & 01’s, I would consider the added cost.
I have been reading multiple posts here on this forum and have not found much evidence that the 00, 01 & 02 are really any different.
Thanks
VinMan
Ps: please send me goooooood vibes for selling my SS, this needs to go before I can driver home in an M5. That’s the deal with the wife!
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Searching for my M5!
99 740iL
70 Buick GSX Stage1 (talk about torque, 510lbs stock)
65 El Camino (Grandfather bought new)
97 Grand Cherokee
I think jajo answered the question reference major significant differences in appearance.
I am not certain, but I also think this was the point that BMW made some minor changes to the engine ring design in an attempt to reduce oil consumption.
With regard to RWHP and/or suspension differences from one model year to the other, none. Probably boils down to price between the two years.
IMO the 01 year would be the better purchase if you want a car that more closely represents current production.
If those things are not important and you have found a 00 with the miles and price you want, mechanically and performance wise it is just as good.
Ken
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03 BMW M5 ein gut fahrt
02 Volvo V70 XC der Frauto
Life may not be always be the party
I thought it would be, but while I am
here I'm going to DANCE
I posted a thread "2000 VS. 2001, Advantages?" when I was looking for a M5. I pulled it up for you to look at the helpful information that members gave me. Hopefully, it will save you some time and their answers won't have to be repeated.
Pm me if you have a question.
John
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2002 M5 titanium silver
19701/2 Chevrolet Camaro SS396/375 HP
1973 Chevrolet Z-28
1986 Jeep CJ-7
1960 Willys CJ-5
1946 Willys CJ-2A
I have owned both of these model years. I would purchase the MY01 if you have the opportunity. Not that there is anything the matter with the MY00, but the MY01 had quite a few upgrades.
* M-Audio option
* Updated front and rear lights
* larger Nav screen
* Max AC button
* Integrated garage door opener(I think this was an option on MY00)
* Alcatara headliner (option on MY00)
* Less expensive oil 5-30W vs 10-60W
* Gun mounts, oh I added those, sorry.
Mark
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MY2001 Imola Red
Lux. Black Interior
Painted Calipers,
AC Schzitner Type III Two Piece 18 chrome wheels, Stage II HID's Low Beams and Foglights, Supersprint X-pipe (removed).
Autowerke CAI
Powerchip Software Upgrade
Stage I upgrade MB Quarts Speakers from Bavarian Soundwerks (our sponsor here)
Tubi Catback Exhaust
361RWHP
425HP and growing!
... versus price when comparing the two. I drove both MYs and couldn't tell the difference performance-wise, but I do like the MY2001's bigger Nav Screen and angel eyes. I hate dinky displays of any sort, but I'm not sure it's worth $5-$7K alone.
The early MY2000 M5s allegedly had higher oil consumption that's been reflected in some earlier board discussions. BMW supposedly changed the oil rings in March 00 and solved the problem. Mine is consuming 1 qt every 2000 miles now, not unacceptable but an irritation nonetheless.
So it boils down to secondary stuff - traditional vs. sport interior, value of aftermarket mods, colors, etc. I went with the MY2000 because it seemed like a better deal, cost wise. Much more important in my mind is what's the beast's background. Other posts on the board go into details about what to look for in used M5s. Do your homework and you're less likely to get bit by a bad deal.
They all use oil, and the ring change in 3/2000 did nothing to improve this. Do a search on the subject and you will find owners complaining of oil ussage for all years.
This only thing about the ring change that was made public by BMWNA is the oil spec change, which now appears to be reversed by BMWNA (back to 10w-60).
My 2000 M5 hasn't used ANY measureable oil in the last 2400 miles. I don't think I'm pushing it hard enough!
The only new item on the 2001 that I want is the bigger nav screen. I probably should buy and install it.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that the display clusters (tachometer/speedometer) are gray instead of black
edit: And due to changes like this and the ones that other members have stated, it is why I would never get the E60 M5 (or any other car) the first or second year in production.
I looked for a long time and saw some very good MY 2000 cars that were extremely clean.
Examples; Lemans blue/LM-BLK sport with 9000 miles for $51000, Imola Red/RED-BLK sport with 19,000 miles for $51,000, Titanium Silver/Silverstone-Blk sport with 19,000 miles for $50,000, Titanium Silver/BLK lux with 31,000 miles for $50,000, and many others from $48,000 to $53,000 in excellent condition.
The MY 2001 cars were from $55,000 for a Titanium Silver/Silverstone-Blk sport with 19,000 miles, $57,000 for a Titanium Silver/BLK lux with 19,000 miles, $60,000 for an Imola Red/RED-BLK sport with 10,000 miles, and several others.
I came away with the feeling that if you are planning on collecting the car, the MY2000 with very low miles is desireable since they were collector cars from the start. The cars with higher mileage were used as regular cars and have the usual nicks and some had repainted hood sides, bumpers, replaced windshields, etc. compared to the collector cars that stayed out of the sun and inside a garage.
If you are going to use the car for a driver, the later cars have a little more to offer, but not enough if you can get a really good deal on a very low mileage MY 2000. But usually those cars are hard to get a low price (maybe $46K to $49K) on since the owners probably bought the cars at a premium when the market was hot.
The bottom line is that all cars depreciate over time and mileage, even if you don't drive them. With that in mind, I think you can get an almost new car from an enthusist that maintained the car well rather than a guy that leased it and just drove it like a regular car.
John
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2002 M5 titanium silver
19701/2 Chevrolet Camaro SS396/375 HP
1973 Chevrolet Z-28
1986 Jeep CJ-7
1960 Willys CJ-5
1946 Willys CJ-2A