So I pull up behind a Stillen'd 90-something 300ZX on one of my favorite mountain roads up to a stop sign. He turns on his left indicator, I turn on mine. He takes off, I take off to pass him in the opposing lane of the two-lane road (no cars, of course.)
She really pulls in first, and I'm already a full car length ahead of the ricer, and I grab second, but the clutch just won't let go! Imagine my dismay So, my Beast, of which I took delivery two weeks ago, has 39K miles on her, and her clutch is slipping. (I still easily took the ricer, by the way, as it was no match for the DFC on race track with SO3's, and the clutch doesn't slip except when upshifting at full throttle.)
So, my question for those more technically-endowed than I is, does this mean my clutch is toast, or can it possibly be adjusted Is there a way to influence the dealer to replace it, as it's under warrantee? Thanks in advance for your help...
Hello M'nd. Another handle I don't understand. Is it Maryland? Anyway, DFC is AC Schnitzer's Damper Force Control suspension. it is an electronically-controlled, cockpit-adjustable system that changes hydraulic pressure in the shocks from sport to intermediate to race track. It is the ultimate suspension setup for anything from near-stock comfort to all-out race-track firmness IMHO (that's In My Humble Opinion.)
Originally posted by chirofirst
So, my question for those more technically-endowed than I is, does this mean my clutch is toast, or can it possibly be adjusted Is there a way to influence the dealer to replace it, as it's under warrantee? Thanks in advance for your help...
Todd
Hi Todd,
I'm not a mechanic, I hope Greg, Bart, and others will chime in to bail me out in the 'clutch' , but here goes. I think once the clutch starts to slip, especailly if the cause is over-heating, it will never be back to 'as new' again. It will probably deteriorate over time. How fast depends on your driving habits. If you have not detected 'burnt-clutch' odor during your ownership, then the previous owner probably did the toasting for you.
As for being covered by BMW. If they did, it's not under the warrenty provisions (4 years, 50k miles), but as a full- maintenance item. Incidentally, the full-maintenance includes brakes also. The normal free-maintenance period is 3 years, 36k miles. Since you are at 39k miles, unless you, or the previous owner, had bought an extended-service policy, to 4 years, 50k miles, you have no coverage. Since you are not much over 36k miles, you may try to call various dealers and see if you can still get the extended- service policy. I bought mine for $450, explicitly for the possibility of a failing clutch. I now have 39.5k miles, and the clutch is still strong as ever, so I might have blown $450 for essentially a free oil-change.
as one who fears his clutch is toast already , I have read everything I can on this topic. A brief search should yield Greg's test for a worn clutch, something like accelerate to 3000 in either 3rd or 4th, foot off-throttle then back on to make sure clutch is "hooked-up", then floor the throttle and see if engine and road speeds rise together. That is, if the engine revs shoot up but your car doesn't accelerate, clutch is a problem.
That is my best recollection of the procedure: if I had a straight link I'd give it to you but I don't.
See the dealer. This is a almost a hidden recall item. M5's only produced at the rate of about 2500 a year. When I went to my dealer for my clutch at 18k, not only was it not a problem (at a dealer not previously known for good customer service), they even STOCKED complete clutch kits for this rlimited production car. Kit included new PP, throw out bearing and flywheel IIRC. If that doesn't tell you it is a known problem, I am not sure what will. Give the dealer a chance. As long as BMW agrees to pick it up so the dealer gets reimbursed, it is not a problem. Good luck
Regards,
Jerry
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'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit
So, my Beast, of which I took delivery two weeks ago, has 39K miles on her, and her clutch is slipping. (I still easily took the ricer, by the way, as it was no match for the DFC on race track with SO3's, and the clutch doesn't slip except when upshifting at full throttle.)
Is there a way to influence the dealer to replace it, as it's under warrantee? Thanks in advance for your help...
????
, I have read everything I can on this topic. A brief search should yield Greg's test for a worn clutch, something like accelerate to 3000 in either 3rd or 4th, foot off-throttle then back on to make sure clutch is "hooked-up", then floor the throttle and see if engine and road speeds rise together. That is, if the engine revs shoot up but your car doesn't accelerate, clutch is a problem.
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