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          Old 9th October 2002, 01:48   #1 (permalink)
          XrayMD
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          Proper way to break in the Sachs clutch?

          OK! I've heard that if you don't break in the M5 clutch properly, you'll ruin it for the life of the clutch...something with the pressure plate. This supposedly is the problem with some M5 clutches that slip. I leased an M5 with about 8500 miles on it and I can make the clutch slip between 2nd & 3rd by stepping on the gas hard before the clutch is let out all the way.

          So, if this is true, and I decide to replace my clutch, what is the "proper" way to break in the clutch so this doesn't happen again?

          Thanks!
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          Last edited by XrayMD; 9th October 2002 at 01:50.
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          Old 9th October 2002, 02:55   #2 (permalink)
          HotRod
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          XRAY,

          I don't recall a procedure for breaking in the clutch?? I only remember the engine, tires, and brakes need time to adjust. I think it is just a matter of common sense at all times with the clutch--much like the tires and brakes--if you burn rubber alot, you're going to wear out your tires quicker......if you ride your brakes (or clutch!), then they will wear out quicker.....I know it wasn't you that did it, but I think just common sense is the only break-in for the clutch.....the clutch is an on and off switch IMO, you either have it engaged or not engaged--often quickly like a light switch being turned on and off--don't slip the clutch under heavy power--it's that simple!!!

          On a side note....I asked my SA how many clutches he has replaced on the M5's in the area, and he said 2. I asked him if it was due to a "weak" clutch, or if it was driver error. He said most definately it is driver error, but the clutch is covered so they HAVE to do it--just like the brake pads being covered.....No big deal to him.....it comes with the price/perk of having an M5....

          So, regardless of what ANY dealership tells you about replacing the clutch--it is plain and simple:

          They HAVE to do it as part of teh maintenance agreement!! So, if your dealership won't do it because they say you were the cause of it, then find a dealership that really cares about their clients.....

          Thank God mine does!!

          HotRod
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          Old 9th October 2002, 03:36   #3 (permalink)
          CM5GO
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          ANY M5 clutch will slip if you step on the gas before the clutch is let out all the way. That does not mean there is anything wrong with your clutch. Make sure the clutch is fully out before stepping on the gas and you should be fine.
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          Old 9th October 2002, 04:26   #4 (permalink)
          XrayMD
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          I'm not sure that this is true. I had the opportunity last week to drive 2 other M5's, a 2001 and a 2002 and neither of these 2 had this happen. BTW, the other 2002 has the power steering whine and the 2001 doesn't. BMWNA says this is "normal", but it only occurs in about 50% of M5's. No one can tell me what's different about the other 50% that doesn't have the whine. Mine has it and it gets annoying. It happens at slow turns like in a parking lot or turning into the driveway, with just a little turn of the wheel either direction, and is worse with "sport" engaged. I've read other posts where someone had their power steering pump replaced and it still did this. My SA said he's heard about it but they haven't been advised of a fix yet.

          Seems like every car has its quirks, but you hate to have things like this in a 70K+ vehicle
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          Old 9th October 2002, 04:48   #5 (permalink)
          thebishman
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          Clutch break-in

          Steve,
          I had to have my clutch replaced at 9000 miles in my M5. It had never been abused. There is no doubt that MOST people believe the OEM clutch/pressure plate to be the Achilles Heel of the M5, (along with crap brakes on the track).
          When you have the clutch replaced, the service dept. will tell you to be extremely easy on the clutch for the first 300-500 miles. This is because the clutch is very slightly conical in shape, and takes a short time to conform properly to the pressure plate; i.e. so that both surfaces fit flush. If this initial 'clutch break-in' process is not followed, your brand new clutch can be essentially ruined from the start, leading to increased problems as it ages.
          thebishman
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          Old 9th October 2002, 06:16   #6 (permalink)
          XrayMD
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          Thanks to the bishman! I suspected as much. Now I just have to convince my SA that it should be replaced under warranty. I asked him last time I went there and he said BMW wouldn't cover it. I thought this was BS!
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          '02 M5 LeMans Blue:

          Active Autowerke CAI/brake ducts
          Supersprint Headers and cats
          SuperSprint exhaust with X-pipe
          Evosport custom 3.45 diff. with 30% lockup and 2x dynamic lockup
          UFMotorsport intake air temp sensor relocation
          Powerchip Gold (SS header/cats version)
          Ignition Solutions plasma coils
          Dinan Stage III suspension
          BeastPower sway bar brackets
          Dinan front strut tower brace
          Stoptech Custom Silver Big Brake kit (fronts)
          RMS short shifter
          Rogue Performance transmission mounts, Royal Purple Synchromax fluid
          Llumar window tint (35%)
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          Old 9th October 2002, 06:33   #7 (permalink)
          IloveM5s
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          Quote:
          Originally posted by XrayMD
          Thanks to the bishman! I suspected as much. Now I just have to convince my SA that it should be replaced under warranty. I asked him last time I went there and he said BMW wouldn't cover it. I thought this was BS!
          Typically, unless there is something wrong with the clutch that can be attributed to its manufacturing etc, it will not be covered under warranty. I'm sure dealer policies vary widely on whether or not they will cover it, but as a general rule of thumb, wear items (brakes, clutch, etc) are not covered under warranty.

          I would wait until your clutch is actually slipping. Meaning, your foot is completely off the clutch (the clutch is engaged at this point), and it slips when throttle is applied. The reason your revs are jumping slightly when your foot is not completely off the clutch, is because the clutch is not fully engaged. The pressure plate is not "locked" or fully pressed against the flywheel (the flywheel is connected to to the engines crankshaft in case you're wondering). Therefore, since the engine is only partially conected to the drivetrain, you're only going to see partial power to the wheels. When this happens the flywheel is spinning faster than the friction plate of the clutch. It's very important to make sure the clutch is fully engaged before giving the car a lot of gas for the simple reason that you will fry your clutch much much quicker (this goes back to the flywheel spinning faster than the friction plate, which will in turn wear down the friction material on said plate). I hope this is not just totally confusing
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          Old 9th October 2002, 07:30   #8 (permalink)
          Noka
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          Quote:
          "... what is the "proper" way to break in the clutch ...?"
          Go to following link clutch break-in procedure and scroll down to about 5th post by me with green text to see procedure I got from dealer service.

          Rgds,
          Norm
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          Last edited by Noka; 9th October 2002 at 07:31.
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          Old 9th October 2002, 22:26   #9 (permalink)
          XrayMD
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          Thanks for all the excellent info...it is greatly appreciated!

          I'm waiting for my SA to get back to me and see if I can get it done when I have my exhaust system put in.
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          Steve
          '02 M5 LeMans Blue:

          Active Autowerke CAI/brake ducts
          Supersprint Headers and cats
          SuperSprint exhaust with X-pipe
          Evosport custom 3.45 diff. with 30% lockup and 2x dynamic lockup
          UFMotorsport intake air temp sensor relocation
          Powerchip Gold (SS header/cats version)
          Ignition Solutions plasma coils
          Dinan Stage III suspension
          BeastPower sway bar brackets
          Dinan front strut tower brace
          Stoptech Custom Silver Big Brake kit (fronts)
          RMS short shifter
          Rogue Performance transmission mounts, Royal Purple Synchromax fluid
          Llumar window tint (35%)
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          Old 10th October 2002, 01:27   #10 (permalink)
          PhilSeastrand
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          Quote:
          Originally posted by IloveM5s
          I'm sure dealer policies vary widely on whether or not they will cover it, but as a general rule of thumb, wear items (brakes, clutch, etc) are not covered under warranty.
          This is not true -- the BMW warranty will cover all wear items except tires.
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          Old 10th October 2002, 02:42   #11 (permalink)
          XrayMD
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          Humm...I've called two places in Columbus and both SA's told me they've never had BMWNA pay for a clutch. I certainly don't want to eat the cost if I don't have to. Maybe I need to clear this up myself with BMWNA beforehand
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          '02 M5 LeMans Blue:

          Active Autowerke CAI/brake ducts
          Supersprint Headers and cats
          SuperSprint exhaust with X-pipe
          Evosport custom 3.45 diff. with 30% lockup and 2x dynamic lockup
          UFMotorsport intake air temp sensor relocation
          Powerchip Gold (SS header/cats version)
          Ignition Solutions plasma coils
          Dinan Stage III suspension
          BeastPower sway bar brackets
          Dinan front strut tower brace
          Stoptech Custom Silver Big Brake kit (fronts)
          RMS short shifter
          Rogue Performance transmission mounts, Royal Purple Synchromax fluid
          Llumar window tint (35%)