Some info prior to the question... My car has been running rich for awhile now and has not been cured by many of the typical solutions, O2’s, CPS, MAF, etc… I decided to take the diagnosis to the next level and check the valve timing. I also figured while I had that apart I’d keep going and replace the VANOS springs with the updated parts (already performed solenoid maint). Also convinced Scott (fmcfad01) who is dealing with the same problem to do this at the same time. Before I proceed, a big shout out to JamiePeers and all that helped him for the detailed DIY… great job
So far we removed the 150ish bolts to get to the point where we could check the timing. Now as an interesting note, I remembered a service function in my GT1 to set VANOS into assembly position. Well of course I remembered it too late for my car as I had it half disassembled (car has to run for it to work) so used the modified 27mm wrench to set the VANOS to the initial position. But then tried it out with Scott’s car and was very surprised that it actually worked. Don’t know why BMW has a special tool that uses compressed air to move the VANOS when the GT1 did the same function.
Anyhow… The results were that all of Scott’s cams were still timed correctly but my bank 1 was off a bit which very well could explain my rich codes.
Now to the Question...
Will continue on with the R&R as the week progresses, but in the meantime I have a question about the cam oil pipes…
I took the warning in step 4 of Jamie’s DIY “Now remove the 4 oil lines that cover the cams, 5 bolts on each. DO NOT MIX THESE UP” and as luck would have it I put them on a box on the floor in the order I took them off and before I could mark them I decided it would be fun to knock the box over and have them get all mixed up on the ground
It was easy enough to distinguish between the pipes in banks 1 and 2 as they are different sizes. Front to back was also easy due to the spacing of the bolt holes and dimple. My question is… Is there any importance to the location of the holes that are drilled into each bolt location? Now luckily I learn from my mistakes and when we removed Scott’s pipes I labeled the exact position of each pipe. Then compared that to my pipes and was able to match up the orientation of the small holes on 3 of the pipes. The holes in one of my bank 1 pipes did not look like any of the other pipes. See the pics below. Typically most of the holes were drilled in the corners of the pipe openings (top pipe) but one of my pipes had most of the holes drilled in the 12,3,6 and 9 o’clock positions. (bottom pipe)
My initial thought is there is not much importance to this difference since my engine has run for over 100k miles with that pipe, and according to REALOEM the part # for bank 1 is exactly the same for intake and exhaust, but nevertheless wanted to check with the experts as this would not be a fun area to get something wrong.