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Old 11th August 2012, 04:30   #1
CarbonHan
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New chain tensionor won't thread in..

After reading vantaam5's DIY post: Chain tensioner change DIY with pics ..

...I thought the job looked fairly easy and straight forward so I ordered the chain tensionor and crush washers to do this after work. I got the old one off pretty easily. But when it came to putting in the old one.. i can't get it to start threading in! I'm pushing with all i have while turning the ratchet clockwise but its won't grab. I've been at this for the past 1 and a half hour with no success. I've officially given up for the night because i honestly feel like im going to break my left hand from pushing the ratchet in.

PLEASE somebody enlighten me on how to get this damn thing on.
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Old 11th August 2012, 06:26   #2
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It may be easier just to use your hand to get it threaded and turn it initially, I feel like that's what I ended up doing when I changed mine.
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Old 11th August 2012, 09:46   #3
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i tried to thread it in by hand but i don't have enough strenght to push with my finger..
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Old 11th August 2012, 12:31   #4
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Silly question.

Can you thread the old one in easy enough?

If so, likely the issue is with a small burr or such on the new tensioner. Inspect the tensioner at the very tip of the thread and see if its formed ok or not. Could be you just need to dress the start point with a fine file etc.
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Old 11th August 2012, 13:59   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamiepeers View Post
Silly question.

Can you thread the old one in easy enough?
Very sensible question!! So easy to overlook the blindingly obvious when you're at the "I'm never going to do another **&!!@@£ job on this !**$£@!! car again!" stage.
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Old 11th August 2012, 19:58   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamiepeers View Post
Silly question.

Can you thread the old one in easy enough?

If so, likely the issue is with a small burr or such on the new tensioner. Inspect the tensioner at the very tip of the thread and see if its formed ok or not. Could be you just need to dress the start point with a fine file etc.
I tried using the old head of the screw to see if i could thread that in. No luck whatsoever.


Do you think i need a thinner 19mm socket? I'm thinking maybe im not getting enough clearance..
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Old 11th August 2012, 20:22   #7
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Try just take the bolt (without the spring, etc.) and screw it in by hand, if it goes on, then it simply implies you're not putting enough pressure to overcome the spring. If it doesn't (and this is where you want to test fit the old one to make sure you haven't cross threaded the hole), it will indicate the new bolt thread needs to be burred. I think that's what Jamie is referring to above.
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Old 12th August 2012, 12:36   #8
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Difficult or not, it can be done using your hand, and you should. You have no feeling of what you are doing using your rachet to push and turn, there's a big risk of stripping the threads and if you do, you really got a problem.

Eat some spinach and push/turn it in by hand.
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Old 12th August 2012, 12:45   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerule View Post
Try just take the bolt (without the spring, etc.) and screw it in by hand, if it goes on, then it simply implies you're not putting enough pressure to overcome the spring. If it doesn't (and this is where you want to test fit the old one to make sure you haven't cross threaded the hole), it will indicate the new bolt thread needs to be burred. I think that's what Jamie is referring to above.
It's best if he uses the bolt of the old tensioner to test fit and clean up any burss if present. Like Vantaam5 later wrote in his DIY, the new tensioner should not be disassembled because of the small lock inside (keeping the parts together for easy installation). If you take it apart it becomes decompressed making it much harder to install.
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Old 12th August 2012, 14:01   #10
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That's what I'm thinking, that it's extended a bit making it very hard to install.
Compare its length to the old one, it should be shorter.
Iirc it uses oil pressure to extend outward to a certain tension (hence the clatter when you first stat the engine), then the spring takes up the little variances as the engine runs.
I can't remember how easy it is to compress it all again, not that difficult I don't think.
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