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Retro-Fit Auxiliary Audio Input Harness

DIY: 
61K views 70 replies 15 participants last post by  AGM5 
#1 · (Edited)
As my “Beast” came with the C43 radio it did not have the vehicle harness for the Aux Input which is supported by the BM53 radio. As the next tribute to be paid to the Beast is the BM53 radio, I took the opportunity to build and fit a harness to the vehicle to support the Aux Input facility after the new radio is fitted.

Material:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
18-20’ - Mil-W-16878 STJ Type E 20AWG (0.5mm<SUP>2</SUP>) 4 conductor 19/32 strand silver plated copper, PTFE insulated, Silver-copper braided shield, PTFE tape jacket.
<o:p></o:p>

6 – Tyco Connectivity Terminals – P/N: 962885-5<o:p></o:p>
1 - Male three pole connector – P/N: 61138377072<o:p></o:p>
10 – Black nylon wire ties<o:p></o:p>
2 – 2” (50.0mm) adhesive lined shrink tube<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW Aux Input cable P/N: 65120153503 for S609A<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW BM53 New Generation Radio P/N: 65126988275<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW ANT ADAPTER P/N: 61126913955<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW RADIO HARNESS P/N: 61126913957<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW CDC ADAPTER P/N: 61126924785<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW CONNECTION CABLE CD-CHANGER (550mm) P/N: 65128364756<o:p></o:p>
2 – Gallons of sweat<o:p></o:p>
1 – Giant PITA<o:p></o:p>
Tools:<o:p></o:p>
X-Acto Knife<o:p></o:p>
Ultra-fine wire cutters<o:p></o:p>
Heat gun<o:p></o:p>
Hot tweezers<o:p></o:p>
Crimp tool (GT-150 die for un-insulated terminals)<o:p></o:p>
Phillips head #2 screw driver – Stubby, and standard<o:p></o:p>
10mm short ¼ square drive socket<o:p></o:p>
8mm short ¼ square drive socket<o:p></o:p>
7mm short ¼ square drive socket<o:p></o:p>
4” ¼ drive extension<o:p></o:p>
¼ Ratchet<o:p></o:p>
¼ Nut driver handle<o:p></o:p>
Curved Kelly Clamp<o:p></o:p>
45° long forceps<o:p></o:p>
DIY<o:p></o:p>
Harness:<o:p></o:p>
1- Using the X-Acto knife remove the jacket and a ultra-fine pair of wire cutters trim the shield and the remnants of the jacket from each end of the Mil-W16878 cable, approximately 3” (75.0mm) at one end (head unit) and 6” (150.0mm) at the other end (radio).<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>

Bumper


Pipe Tool


Wire Electrical wiring Cable Technology Electronics accessory


2- Place one piece of the shrink tube on each end of the cable such that the termination of the jacket and shield is covered and approximately ½” (13.0mm) of the exposed conductors. Using the heat gun heat the shrink tube until the adhesive flows.

Wire Electrical wiring Cable Technology Floor


3- Using the hot tweezers remove 1/8 (3.5mm) of the insulation from each of the conductors

Wire






4- Crimp the Tyco terminals to the conductors

Wire stripper Wire Tool Cutting tool Pliers


5- Install the male connector to the head unit end of the harness

Product Technology Electrical connector Electronic device Plastic


Harness Retro-fit:

<o:p></o:p>
Remove:<o:p></o:p>
1- Set driver’s preferred memory settings<o:p></o:p>
a. Record Radio preset stations and DSP settings (if equipped)<o:p></o:p>
b. Open door windows<o:p></o:p>
2- Disconnect Battery Ground Cable<o:p></o:p>
3- Left side boot trim<o:p></o:p>
4- CD Changer (if equipped) (2 screws)<o:p></o:p>
5- Radio Module (4 screws)<o:p></o:p>
6- Rear seat bench<o:p></o:p>
7- Rear center headrest (lift straight up)<o:p></o:p>
8- Raise outboard rear headrests to upper most position<o:p></o:p>
9- Rear seat back lower fasteners (2 screws)<o:p></o:p>
10- Rear Seat back (lift up)<o:p></o:p>
11- Tray and rear HVAC vent<o:p></o:p>
12- Center console arm rest (2 screws)<o:p></o:p>
13- Park Brake boot<o:p></o:p>
14- Shifter bezel<o:p></o:p>
15- Hazard switch (push up from underneath; accessed from under shifter boot)<o:p></o:p>
16- Center console insert (5 screws)<o:p></o:p>
17- Navigation head unit (4 screws)<o:p></o:p>
18- Automatic Air Conditioning Control unit<o:p></o:p>
19- Seat heater control unit<o:p></o:p>
20- Cup holder (2 screws)<o:p></o:p>
21- Cigarette lighter and tray assembly (2 screws)<o:p></o:p>
22- Center stack control module frame (4 screws)<o:p></o:p>
23- Left and right center console trim panels (1 screw each side)<o:p></o:p>
24- Center console (12 screws)

Lock Door handle


Auto part Diagram Design Automotive window part Automotive exterior


<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p>Fitment:</o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p><o:p></o:p>
1- Lift the rear carpet to allow the radio end of the harness to be fed under the carpet towards the left rear seat from the left side of the airbag module.

Electrical wiring Wire Technology Auto part Electronic device


2- Pull the harness through to the rear; leaving approximately 4’ (1.3m) to be routed through to center stack behind the Navigation Head Unit .

3- Route the head unit end of the harness forward around the parking brake and up the left side of the center stack.

Vehicle Car Auto part Center console Bmw


a. Secure the harness along the route with wire ties.
4- Route the radio end of the harness along the existing harnesses and through the lower left side grommet into the boot.

Bicycle motocross


5- Continue routing the aux input harness in the boot along the existing harness to the radio/electronics bay
a. Secure the harness with wire ties as required (typically where the harness changes direction)

Leg Auto part


Electrical wiring Electronics Auto part Wire Electrical supply


6- Connect the Left audio input terminal to socket 3 of the X13649 connector (black connector of BMW CDC ADAPTER P/N: 61126924785)
7- Connect the Right audio input terminal to socket 4 of the X13649 connector (black connector of BMW CDC ADAPTER P/N: 61126924785)
8- Connect the audio input ground terminal to socket 10 of the X13649 connector(black connector of BMW CDC ADAPTER P/N: 61126924785)
a. Thanks… B Jack at the M5 Board http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/191687-car-stereo-experts-please-help.html

Text Font Line Design Parallel


9- Install the BMW Aux Input facility per direction (01290153504) or at a location of your preference.

<o:p> Vehicle
</o:p>

<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> Car Vehicle Luxury vehicle Technology Center console
</o:p>

<o:p></o:p>
<o:p><o:p>10- Reinstall all components removed during the removal portion of this DIY in reverse order.<o:p></o:p>
</o:p>

</o:p><o:p>11- Reconnect Battery Ground Cable</o:p>
<o:p>a. Set Driver’s Memory</o:p>
<o:p>12- Verify proper function.</o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>




<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
</o:p>



</SPAN>
 

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#3 ·
? for AGM5

AGM5, thanks for the write-up on making/installing an aux input cable. Question for you: your parts list shows 1 3-pole male connector, presumably for the front end of the cable, to connect to the factory aux cable. But your photo of the rear end of the cable also shows a connector. Is it the same part number, to go into the "C" section of the square radio connector?

Thanks,
Al
 
#5 ·
AGM5, thanks for the write-up on making/installing an aux input cable. Question for you: your parts list shows 1 3-pole male connector, presumably for the front end of the cable, to connect to the factory aux cable. But your photo of the rear end of the cable also shows a connector. Is it the same part number, to go into the "C" section of the square radio connector?

Thanks,
Al
The second connector (at the rear of vehicle) was installed to protect the terminals during routing under the carpet and through the trunk. The connector would have been removed but the cable was cut at 12ft. and thus too short. I made an extension at work the next day to complete the installation. Had the cable been the correct length (not complaining as the cable is $3.68/ft and I got it for free) the connector would have been removed and the terminals installed in the radio connector. The rear connector is only for installation of the harness. The terminals will plug into the "C" connector on the radio harness.
 
#6 ·
WELL DONE. Excellent DIY!

It may be my firewall at work, but the image for instruction 3- is not showing for me??

I think that it is the work firewall. It is showing at work for me at least. If you need I can send the images or the MS Word file when I get home.

Thank you for the compliment on the DIY. This means a lot coming from you. :imnotworthy:
 
#7 ·
Ah, makes perfect sense! I was thinking that cable looked a little short! Thanks. One more question and a comment:

- Which OEM aux kit did you use, the one for cars with or without Nav? B_Jack said this in his post: "Since my early widescreen monitor does not have the required 3-pin slot in the back, I had to get the output kit for vehicles without nav (part # 82-11-0-149-390; $32 USC at www.ecstuning.com or $37 USC at this guy's eBay store, eluka_com or eluka888). The kit you want will be for E39s from 09/02 -on without nav. I think that's when the BM53 modules (which are locted in trunk, LH side for the M5) were given the aux. mode capability. If your WS monitor does not have the 3-pin slot, then you need the kit for E39s without navigation." I'm confused on the statement, "if your WS monitor does not have the 3-pin slot." Does he mean the later model's wiring that's behind the monitor, or a 3-pin slot on the monitor itself? I know I don't have the wiring/connector for the aux, like yours. Looks like you used a different part number than Jack did for the aux input kit.

- Second, in researching this DIY I ran across a post on the e60 forum, where a guy removed the capacitors/resistor (filter) from the wiring in the aux kit to enhance bass and get a cleaner sound. If one were to go this route, you pretty much wouldn't need the kit at all, but could run your harness directly to a 1/8" phone jack. Here's the thread: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e6...-improved-aux-input-sound-quality-volume.html
Anyone try this?

Again, thanks much for the DIY. My intention is to add your harness and then use a bluetooth receiver on the other end to stream music from my iphone. I already have the ULF phone bluetooth that I want to keep using.
 
#8 ·
Ah, makes perfect sense! I was thinking that cable looked a little short! Thanks. One more question and a comment:

- Which OEM aux kit did you use, the one for cars with or without Nav? B_Jack said this in his post: "Since my early widescreen monitor does not have the required 3-pin slot in the back, I had to get the output kit for vehicles without nav (part # 82-11-0-149-390; $32 USC at www.ecstuning.com or $37 USC at this guy's eBay store, eluka_com or eluka888). The kit you want will be for E39s from 09/02 -on without nav. I think that's when the BM53 modules (which are locted in trunk, LH side for the M5) were given the aux. mode capability. If your WS monitor does not have the 3-pin slot, then you need the kit for E39s without navigation." I'm confused on the statement, "if your WS monitor does not have the 3-pin slot." Does he mean the later model's wiring that's behind the monitor, or a 3-pin slot on the monitor itself? I know I don't have the wiring/connector for the aux, like yours. Looks like you used a different part number than Jack did for the aux input kit.

- Second, in researching this DIY I ran across a post on the e60 forum, where a guy removed the capacitors/resistor (filter) from the wiring in the aux kit to enhance bass and get a cleaner sound. If one were to go this route, you pretty much wouldn't need the kit at all, but could run your harness directly to a 1/8" phone jack. Here's the thread: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e6...-improved-aux-input-sound-quality-volume.html
Anyone try this?

Again, thanks much for the DIY. My intention is to add your harness and then use a bluetooth receiver on the other end to stream music from my iphone. I already have the ULF phone bluetooth that I want to keep using.

You will want the Aux input for MY 09/02+ with S609A (Navigation) 1 – BMW Aux Input cable P/N: 65120153503 for S609A This Aux Adapter uses the 3pol. single row (3x1) connector. The others use an 8 pol. double row connector (4x2). The 8pol. connectors are for the BM53 / BM54 radios which are dash mounted. The connector is not part of the monitor but a separate harness which was added to the vehicles as standard prep from 09/02. The connector on mine is the new Tyco MQS 3pol. connector from BMW, the shape is different but the function and fitment are the same. If you get the wrong adapter you will need to either change the connector on the adapter or identify the correct mating connector and fit it in place of the 3pol. on the harness.

I have not reviewed or attempted the removal of the of the cap's or resistor. Removal of the cap's may open a opportunity for ground loop noise, or otherwise adversely affect function.
 
#10 · (Edited)
For a MY 2003 (build date 9/2002 and later) all you should need to add the AUX Input is

1 – BMW Aux Input cable P/N: 65120153503 for S609A

The black 3 pol connector is located behind the head unit. Just remove the head unit and follow the instructions supplied with the AUX cable. This retro-fit is plug and play, so no coding is required.
:cheers:
 
#11 ·
#13 ·
#12 ·
#15 ·
Just as curiousity, this plugs directly in the original 2002 unit ?
If it does, is there something to remove, or the jack was there waiting for
something to be connected in..
Interested, as I'm currently doing some various little repairs on my "new" M5..
Thanks !
 
#16 ·
The BMW AUX Input is a direct fit for e39s build date 9/2002 and later, so model year 2003. To fit the AUX Input to a e39 built prior to 9/2002 you will need to fabricate the facility, and possibly the BM53 radio module.
 
#23 ·
Getting the BMW Aux Input cable P/N: 65120153503 for S609A was the easiest thing ever. Hardest part was figuring out where I wanted the input!
Must be nice having a MY '03 that already has the facility. So where did you end up put it?
:cheers:
 
#26 ·
Yes, you can have both OE Sirius and the Aux. The Sirius' audio come via the CDC input with the CDC slaved to the Sirius tuner, whereas the Aux is a dedicated input on the BM53/54 radio module. As your car is a MY'03 the facility is already present with the connector behind the Board Monitor (head unit). All you need is the Aux Input cable and your good to go.
 
#27 ·
#30 ·
Material:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
18-20’ - Mil-W-16878 STJ Type E 20AWG (0.5mm<SUP>2</SUP>) 4 conductor 19/32 strand silver plated copper, PTFE insulated, Silver-copper braided shield, PTFE tape jacket.
<o:p></o:p>

6 – Tyco Connectivity Terminals – P/N: 962885-5<o:p></o:p>
1 - Male three pole connector – P/N: 61138377072<o:p></o:p>
10 – Black nylon wire ties<o:p></o:p>
2 – 2” (50.0mm) adhesive lined shrink tube<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW ANT ADAPTER P/N: 61126913955<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW RADIO HARNESS P/N: 61126913957<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW CDC ADAPTER P/N: 61126924785<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW CONNECTION CABLE CD-CHANGER (550mm) P/N: 65128364756<o:p></o:p>
AGM5, lol you're probably one of the calmest and most patient members on this board.

Now that we got that out of the way, let me bother you for a bit. I have a 06/2001 M5, I haven't check my radio module or my wiring yet in case the previous owner changed those things, but I highly doubt it. So I want to tackle this project, but I'm not entirely sure about your materials list. I already bought the BMW AUX input cable and I'm working on finding the BM53. But how many of those BMW parts should my car already have?
I'm know I need the Male three pole connector for the front end of the cable, and I think the CDC Adapter, since that picture said "New generation"

I'll take this list to an electronics shop and have make the cable for me, so they should understand this right? Cuz I'm kinda confused here:
18-20’ - Mil-W-16878 STJ Type E 20AWG (0.5mm<SUP>2</SUP>) 4 conductor 19/32 strand silver plated copper, PTFE insulated, Silver-copper braided shield, PTFE tape jacket.<o:p></o:p>
Please advise. :D
 
#31 ·
AGM5, lol you're probably one of the calmest and most patient members on this board.

Now that we got that out of the way, let me bother you for a bit. I have a 06/2001 M5, I haven't check my radio module or my wiring yet in case the previous owner changed those things, but I highly doubt it. So I want to tackle this project, but I'm not entirely sure about your materials list. I already bought the BMW AUX input cable and I'm working on finding the BM53. But how many of those BMW parts should my car already have?
I'm know I need the Male three pole connector for the front end of the cable, and I think the CDC Adapter, since that picture said "New generation"

I'll take this list to an electronics shop and have make the cable for me, so they should understand this right? Cuz I'm kinda confused here:

Please advise. :D
Thank you for the compliment.

As far as which of the components in the BOM are already in your car; if the system has not been modified from stock and you still have a c43 radio then none of the BOM is onboard. :sad1:. If you have a BM53 (any generation) it will have Aux support but only, IIRC, third gen. on will also support Sirius.

Below is the cable specification for the facility (this is the cable which runs from the front of the vehicle to the radio module in the rear.
18-20’ - Mil-W-16878 STJ Type E 20AWG (0.5mm<SUP>2</SUP>) 4 conductor 19/32 strand silver plated copper, PTFE insulated, Silver-copper braided shield, PTFE tape jacket

I had this cable at work so I used it as it was going to be scrapped (too short for instrument harness), however, at $4.00/ft it is very good but expensive. You only need a 0.5mm<SUP>2 </SUP>(IIRC 22 AWG) 3 conductor cable.

These are the Tyco MQS Terminals (I sourced them from Newark (Element) Electronics
6 – Tyco Connectivity Terminals – P/N: 962885-5
962885-5 - TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP - CONNECTOR CONTACT, SOCKET, CRIMP | Newark
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p></o:p>
And yes, if you are going to use the CDC (or Intravee, Dice, etc) you will need both
1 – BMW CDC ADAPTER P/N: 61126924785<o:p></o:p>
1 – BMW CONNECTION CABLE CD-CHANGER (550mm) P/N: 65128364756<o:p></o:p>
 
#33 ·
Ok, I have a stupid question, but if you have to buy a BM53 (which looks to be going on ebay for $300 or $400), why not just buy a Intravee, Dice, or Groom for less than going this route. Is the sound quality better?
Groom, Dice and Intravee require the deletion of the CDC, and are not OE. As I wanted all OE and actually use the CDC, these were not an option. The sound quality will be the same as they are all output through the same radio, amp and speakers. Of the options you listed the Intravee is by far the best but needing an assortment of other Alpine devices it gets very expensive pretty quick.
 
#37 ·
If your CDC is skipping, check the two rubber mounts and the two screws attaching it to the frame. If those are tight, remove the CDC and check the frame attachment to the vehicle. If all is still good the problem is likely the gel/rubber mounts supporting the CDC mechanism to the device's internal frame. To access this, first eject the magazine, and then disconnect the CDC. Next remove the CDC's cover and you can see the gel/rubber mounts. The mechanism can become separated from the frame. simply re-attach the mechanism to the mounts and the frame. Reinstall the CDC.

As to getting everything working on the e39. What year is the beast? What is everything you want in the e39. If you are looking for iPod only and still don't want the CDC I would definitely go with the Intravee as to get all of the other cool features and the integration seems cleaner.
 
#40 ·
Hey man, thanks for the advice. I will try that and see if it helps.

I have a 2002 with M audio. It actually surprised me how good it sounded, much better than the crap Harmon Kardon in my previous M3's. But since I already have the equipment, I will probably go ahead and replace it at some point. I do want to get iPod integration first, and I don't mind losing the CDC. Bluetooth would be nice, so I wouldn't have to run any wires, which Dice and Groom both offer. But I don't want it if it is quirky, or poor audio, it seems there a bunch of threads were people have issues with it so it might be best to stick with the Intravee, which I have not read any threads of complaints so far with Intravee. Will I have full functionality since I have the MKIII nav and CD43 radio?
 
#39 ·
There is no need to open the monitor. All of the wiring and the facility for the Aux Input are between the radio module (in the trunk) and the center stack. The monitor is only the user interface and cassette deck.

As far as the wiring for the BM53 radio module, it is explained in more detail in the E39 - BM53 & (BMW) Sirius Radio Retrofit<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...12981-e39-bm53-bmw-sirius-radio-retrofit.html
 
#44 ·
Okay, so I went under this afternoon to double check all my connections and see how many parts I really need and how many do I already have. Oh and you're right, I thought the C43/BM53 sat in the front, but on our nav cars, they're in the trunk.

Removed the CD changer, exposing the tuner

No previous owner presents, it's a C43 :sad3:


So what's going on here? What's that unplugged red (computer?) wire and the blue one?


Also, I didn't test this so I don't blow out any fuses or anything, but that's the plug that goes into the bottom of the CD changer. It fits right into the AUX input wire, what would happen if I plugged in an audio source?
 
#45 ·
Okay, so I went under this afternoon to double check all my connections and see how many parts I really need and how many do I already have. Oh and you're right, I thought the C43/BM53 sat in the front, but on our nav cars, they're in the trunk.

Removed the CD changer, exposing the tuner

No previous owner presents, it's a C43 :sad3:


So what's going on here? What's that unplugged red (computer?) wire and the blue one?
These are for the Telephone / ULF (Bluetooth)


Also, I didn't test this so I don't blow out any fuses or anything, but that's the plug that goes into the bottom of the CD changer. It fits right into the AUX input wire, what would happen if I plugged in an audio source?
This connection is not the audio for the CDC, it is the I-bus (Power, Ground and Communication).
See my comments above in red.
You will need everything listed in the Aux Input BOM including the BM53 New Generation Radio module.
The Aux Input, via the facility retro-fit, will plug directly into the BM53 radio module at X13649 cavities 3, 4 & 10.
 
#53 ·
I've been ninjaed.:M5thumbs:
 
#60 · (Edited)
A little thread revive but where can one acquire the tyco crimp connect things to crimp the raw ends to for attaching the cabling from the aux to the "C" part of the BM53 socket 3 4 and 10. Also any idea where I can find the 0.5^2mm cabling?
 
#61 ·
#67 ·
Okay so I got all the parts and am trying to connect the tyco terminals but im having a hard time getting them far enough down. Im assuming since they have a latch that once there are in you would have to somehow depress the clip to remove the cable however once installed i can pull them out leaving me to think they are not far enough in. Any special way to get the connecter to go further in?
 
#68 ·
Prior to inserting the terminals in the cavity did you remove the TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) the plastic out cover in the connector block. If you look at the edges you should see where a terminal pick can be inserted and when the edges of the cover are gently lifted the cover will slide away from the block. With cover removed, the terminals should slip into their cavities easily and latch with an audible click. Once the three terminals are seated re-install the TPA and you should be done.


Also, I had a thought about the jack being connected (permanently) to the harness. You may need to incorporate the load circuit from the OE Aux Input for it to function. (2200 µF, on both right and left audio channels and a 300KΩ resistor between the R & L Audio channels).
 
#69 ·
contacts are available at newark canada:
962885-5 TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP Rectangular Power Connector Contacts | 20H0278 | Newark element14 Canada
you could carefully use pliers to crimp, but I would solder them instead.

as for the wires, many can do.
I would suggest you to find an electronic shop around your place.
There you could ask for a 3 conductors, sheilded or not, 22AWG stranded about 15 feet.
That would be far less expensive than buying a 100' reel !
Cable - Multiconductor Unshielded | Cable, Wire & Assemblies | Newark element14 Canada
 
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