Vanos solenoid tension screws stuck

Nabio · 24th July 2012, 17:45

Greetings,

So I have an 11/99 build M5. I have decided at long last to do the VANOS solenoid maintenance (replacing orings and checking solenoid function). I have noticed before that even though I have a MY2000 and 11/99 build date M5, my solenoid covers have the 4 solenoid tension set screws. So I figured the previous owner must have upgraded on work he had done at some point (although no mention of this in the limited service records I got at the dealer after purchasing the car).

Anyway, I will be following the great DIY instructions here: VANOS Solenoid Maintenance_Full DIY and I just started. While trying to loosen the four tension screws on each side, I realize that someone must've used loctite red on them because they are STUCK. I managed to get a few of them loose, but some I am unable to turn at all. One of them I even started to strip it's so stuck! I have sprayed the screws with some WD40 and am letting that set in now. I'd really rather not have to put a torch to it because of the solenoids that live just behind the cover.

I would like get some input on this issue:

1) How many others who have done this maintenance have had extremely difficult to loosen/remove tension screws?

2) Am I right in thinking it's not normal for an 11/99 build to have the solenoid tension screws / covers with holes?

3) Also, the VANOS cover bolts are 6mm but my solenoid tension screws are 7mm. Is that normal?

Thanks for the input!

bdsmitty88 · 24th July 2012, 17:59

I had one of my tension screws REALLY jammed in there. THey bind up with dirt, and go in a tad crooked and it is downhill from there.

I got mine out with a LOT of WD-40, and make sure you drive the bolt all the way through, not out.

This is what I did with mine. Then, be sure to clean all the dirt off the bolts and threads before inserting back in. Afterwards, they went in no problem.

GL!

EDIT: I do not believe it is normal to have 7mm tension bolts. Maybe someone modded yours? Could you post pictures?

Nabio · 24th July 2012, 18:24

Here is a photo. Nothing looks unusual. The cover appears like it's factory and not just a pre-tensioner cover that has been tapped.

jamiepeers · 24th July 2012, 19:31

You don't need to remove the tension screws to remove the covers and perform vanos maintenance. The 4 outer screws and centre screw will allow you to remove the covers with the tension screws intact and untouched.

If you're really that bothered simply make a note of what orientation the cover is when you take it off so you can put it on the same way, but in reality, all they do is stop the solenoids from moving about when assembled.

I have a 02/00 and have the tension screws. I rebuilt my vanos and had these covers off, no issues, as i know many many other members have on here also when performing o ring swaps, solenoid diagnostics and repairs etc etc

gzig5 · 24th July 2012, 19:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamiepeers

You don't need to remove the tension screws to remove the covers and perform vanos maintenance. The 4 outer screws and centre screw will allow you to remove the covers with the tension screws intact and untouched.

If you're really that bothered simply make a note of what orientation the cover is when you take it off so you can put it on the same way, but in reality, all they do is stop the solenoids from moving about when assembled.

I have a 02/00 and have the tension screws. I rebuilt my vanos and had these covers off, no issues, as i know many many other members have on here also when performing o ring swaps, solenoid diagnostics and repairs etc etc

This ^^^

Keep the orientation correct.
If you absolutely want to get that screw loose, remove the cover and hit the screw with a big soldering iron or propane torch. That will break down any adhesive that may have been applied. If I remember correctly these grub screws come with a retaining compound applied, but it shouldn't lock it up. Heat is your friend.

Or, you can drill the screw out.

chowdah · 24th July 2012, 19:56

I have zero experience with any of the above except to say that PB Blaster > WD 40 for penetrating lubrication.

Nabio · 24th July 2012, 19:57

Ok sounds good, thanks. I'll remove the covers with the tension screws where they are, and then with the cover off maybe try to loosen/remove them to clean them up for the reinstallation. Does anyone else have the different sized tension (7mm) and cover (6mm) screws?

bdsmitty88 · 24th July 2012, 19:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamiepeers

You don't need to remove the tension screws to remove the covers and perform vanos maintenance. The 4 outer screws and centre screw will allow you to remove the covers with the tension screws intact and untouched.

If you're really that bothered simply make a note of what orientation the cover is when you take it off so you can put it on the same way, but in reality, all they do is stop the solenoids from moving about when assembled.

I have a 02/00 and have the tension screws. I rebuilt my vanos and had these covers off, no issues, as i know many many other members have on here also when performing o ring swaps, solenoid diagnostics and repairs etc etc

If I am understanding this correct, I have to disagree. Obviously they don't need to come all the way out...nowhere near that. But, They should be back out a few turns to release tension, and if you can't even do this, they should be pulled all the way out and cleaned. If you leave the tension screws untouched and just undo the cover bolts, then reapply in the same orientation, you are eliminating the effectiveness of the tension screws as they help to orientate the solenoids and ensure proper installation after the cover is properly in place.

ps4570 · 24th July 2012, 20:18

I just did this last week to my driver's side so the memory is fresh. (I had a repair to do and not maintenance though - Peake code 72). I was able to loosen two of the screws, but two barely moved, loosening only slightly. I was scared to get them really jammed in so I removed the cover and then saturated the tension screws with Break-Free; letting them soak overnight. I don't think WD 40 would be a good choice of lubricant. You want to use a penetrating oil. I think of WD 40 as more of a protectant then anything else. My second choice would have been to use either PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.

I then stuck the cover (wrapped in a leather belt to protect the edges) in a vise and carefully worked the screws in and out until the threads ran clean (liberally spraying everything with Break-Free as I worked). I did not remove the screws from the cover. Just got them freed up so I could apply the appropriate torque (16 Nm) when buttoning everything up. I of course degreased everything before installing the cover.

BTW, my screws were 6mm like the cover bolts.

Sailor24 · 24th July 2012, 20:42

If you are going to put the same boards in the same spot don't worry about it too much the tension will be the same. Take it off the car get it in a vise then loosen the grub screws. Take the covers off with out loosening the grub screws. That is the factory setup you have, there seems to be a bit of confusion as to when this change was made. I suspect it will boil down to engine build date not car build date.