Did you let anybody start your car and rev it to say 4000-5000 rpm in idle when it wasn't fully warmed up as certified by a German engineer wearing a lab coat??? I sure hope not
Only other thing to double confirm would be check the valve at the filter for pressure. Confirm there is power at the jump location. If the fuse is blown pump still won't run no matter how many wires you jump with. Last look for codes.
I'm actually going to change the filter tonight before I start on the pump. By check there for pressure do you literally mean make sure it's pressurized when I release the fitting?
(this might be an odd question, but any chance a clogged filter can cause not just fuel pump strain but actually greater build-up/heat in the relay itself....which would explain why both the relay and pump went around the same time, rather than just coincidentally?)
Hmmm, I'll check for power at the jump location. I didn't think about it earlier, but I didn't get a visible spark when I jammed the copper wire in and jumped the power switch at the relay terminal. I seem to remember either seeing or hearing the spark before, though last time it was night and I was slowly moving the wire in rather than jamming it right in there as I was now.
You mention "if fuse is blown you won't get pump to the pump relay" - can you point me towards said fuse? I didn't realize there was a seperate fuse providing power to the relay, as well as the relay itself. I thought the relay was getting power straight from the ECU.
I'll pull codes via the Evolve-R cable and laptop tonight before starting on the rest of the job.
^^^ What he said. You try to start it when jumped, just curious.
No, I didn't have my wife try to start it when jumped. There was zero sound of fuel pump activity when jumped (it should've been humming non-stop) and otherwise nothing changed from a moment before, so I didn't see a need. I don't think Rao was asking for that anyway - he was making fun of my other post about how I let a friend get in the car who then proceeded to cold rev it to 4500 rpms
(which, by the way, if said friend hadn't started it it might have gotten me to a client today and then stranded me and said client in a 94 degree humid day)
I'm actually going to change the filter tonight before I start on the pump. By check there for pressure do you literally mean make sure it's pressurized when I release the fitting?
(this might be an odd question, but any chance a clogged filter can cause not just fuel pump strain but actually greater build-up/heat in the relay itself....which would explain why both the relay and pump went around the same time, rather than just coincidentally?)
Hmmm, I'll check for power at the jump location. I didn't think about it earlier, but I didn't get a visible spark when I jammed the copper wire in and jumped the power switch at the relay terminal. I seem to remember either seeing or hearing the spark before, though last time it was night and I was slowly moving the wire in rather than jamming it right in there as I was now.
You mention "if fuse is blown you won't get pump to the pump relay" - can you point me towards said fuse? I didn't realize there was a seperate fuse providing power to the relay, as well as the relay itself. I thought the relay was getting power straight from the ECU.
I'll pull codes via the Evolve-R cable and laptop tonight before starting on the rest of the job.
As you know, I have just gone through an ordeal. I do think that causing a backup can increase the "workload" of the pump, and therefore heat and perhaps even amperage through the relay circuit. We already know these relays are weak, but yours is new. My relay was taking a LOT of draw, and didn't fail. The pump I had was drawing too much. I don't think you could fry a new relay that quickly without other things coming up, but could have put the last one over the edge. Just my thoughts.
There is a fuse in the glove box named fuel pump, #22 is the one. Also, #31 is connected along with other electronics.
No, I didn't have my wife try to start it when jumped. There was zero sound of fuel pump activity when jumped (it should've been humming non-stop) and otherwise nothing changed from a moment before, so I didn't see a need. I don't think Rao was asking for that anyway - he was making fun of my other post about how I let a friend get in the car who then proceeded to cold rev it to 4500 rpms
(which, by the way, if said friend hadn't started it it might have gotten me to a client today and then stranded me and said client in a 94 degree humid day)
Yeah, caught the joke, laughed! Just asked because some people have mentioned not hearing the pump, ever. I always hear it cycle, though. Was just curious.
I'm sitting in my office right now - do you know if I can swap another similarly rated fuse into #22 and try to start? I don't have any spare fuses lying around, so unless the box comes with a variety of spare fuses in it I'm guessing I'd have to swap one from another system.
Yeah, I don't think my current relay is shot - if it was, then the fuel pump should've begun pumping when I jumped the relay terminals. But I was wondering if perhaps I had something going on causing a bit of extra draw/heat in the electrical system on the fuel relay/pump. I KNOW that this car has been run down to absolutely empty a number of times - when I picked it up from the PO, the range calculator said it had 6 miles to empty. 6! And, of course, since then I've drained it to 20-30 a number of times. So I imagine both the fuel pump and fuel filter have taken a modest beating.
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laughed! Just asked because some people have mentioned not hearing the pump, ever. I always hear it cycle, though. Was just curious.
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