Thrust Rod Bushings DIY help

MINIz guy · 1st July 2012, 04:17

I need to put in my Powerflex bushings soon but am hesitant on tackling the DIY myself. It seems very straight forward and I've looked at the front end enough times to know everything that needs to be apart. I do need to buy some tools, such as bigger wrenches and a ball joint separator and I'll be fine.

However, I'm a little worried about tackling my ball joints. What are the chances that when I try to my ball joints, they just spin in the holder? What would be my solution to this and would I need a special tool?

What are other surprises I might run into? Would buying an impact wrench (cheap one from Harbor Freight) help out the DIY?

TMcNasty · 1st July 2012, 05:47

There's more than one way to skin this cat. Many people press the bushings out without removing the arms from the car. Another way is to drill them out which is what I did. That was not a pleasant DIY, but I couldn't press them out with the tools I had and the one I rented so I just brute forced it myself. Somewhere in my history I think I posted my pics and tips. Search there or the main forum for the word Powerflex and read all the threads that's probably where I posted.
It was a PITA, but it worked. No shop or special tools needed other than the right drill bits. Just time, persistence, rage, and hate.

If you decide to remove the arms you better read up on that. Iirc most people say this isn't easy to do w/o ripping the rubber boots on the ball joints.

Lancefitzgiben · 1st July 2012, 09:42

are you going to replace the arms or re-use the ones that are currently in the car?

If you're putting in fresh arms then the DIY is going to be easier (faster) because you won't need to worry about the old bushings.

I had to use the harbor freight ball joint separator, as well as heat from a torch, to get the ball joint spindle free. This can be done without damaging the ball joint boot, but you've got to be careful with the torch. Heat was absolutely necessary on my car, no other way it was popping.

The bushing end of the control arms is easy enough to get to once you unbolt the sway bar. Getting the powerflex bushings in is super easy - just get everything but one washer in, then tap the remaining washer in with a small dead-blow.

An impact will not help necessarily. If need be, to get the nut off the ball joint - put some pressure on the underside of the ball joint with a jack. It should stop it from rotating. The only way to get an impact socket on that nut is to have the shock removed anyway.

Good luck buddy. If you're re-using your arms then pushing out those old bushings will likely be the worst part of it all.

MINIz guy · 1st July 2012, 18:04

I plan on reusing my arms just to save on cost so I would have to be very careful with the ball joint. I asked Tim already about using the Harbor Freight ball joint tool and he said he didn't have any issues tearing the boot. Pressure on the ball joint with a jack is noted - should reduce a lot of frustration if I get to that problem.

I was hoping to just take out my arms and bring it to a mechanic and have them press the bushings out. I don't expect it to be that expensive as long as they have a press but I need to find a shop with a press first.

Lancefitzgiben · 1st July 2012, 18:38

Taking the arms out is the best bet, and yes that harbor freight ball joint separator will be immensely helpful. Any machine shop should be able to press out the old bushings for you.

jamiepeers · 1st July 2012, 21:24

You can follow this if you like.

So first off is checking the ball joint end of the arm. You don't want to go through all of this then realise you've spent time and effort putting powerflex bushes in a knackered arm. I opted to have the car in the air, then using a trolley jack, get the jack so its a little clear of the ball joint, then you can use a pry bar in the space to pry against the ball joint and check for free play.

Once you're satisfied that your arm is ok to use you need to remove the arm to get at the bushes here

this rear through bolt has to be removed

along with the front ball joint

This end is a little easier than usual with the coilovers being on. OEM shocks protrude down through the sleeve much more and mean its a bit trickier getting the balljoint off

You also have to undo the front ARB brackets and pull it down out of the way , then faff about with the steering in cetain posiitons to get access to the bolt, but its not too difficult

Once the arms are off we can inspect them

You can see some evidence of cracking, so i knew they were at least on their way. Interstingly, the arms were stamped 99 as you would kind of expect on a 2000 car, but the bushes were dated 2003, so it looks as if its had some previously

For anyone who's replaced RTAB's on their E36, this will be familiar, to extract the old bush sans press, its easier to hole saw the old bush out

Smokin!!

Then you can get a hacksaw in and cut down until you saw through the outer steel sleeve. I had a reciprocating saw which took a little more work out of it for me

With this done, the bush snaps together that tiny distance and it means you can then drift it out easy

Give the arms a good clean then install your new powerflex items using plenty of copper grease so they stay lubed and quiet

Then its a case of reinstalling them along with the supplied washers

The beauty of the powerflex items is you can install them by hand, and you don't have to have the car in its rest posiiton on the ground before tightening the rear bolt

I found a little play in my other front arm on the drivers side, so a pair of these will be ordered next

MINIz guy · 1st July 2012, 22:14

So many helpful posts! This is why I love this forum.

That is a good idea to check for ball joint play before doing the DIY. I've got 128k on the M5 and I might have 128k mile ball joints. Heck, if I need to replace the ball joints, removal would be even easier as I could go at the old arm and not worry. What vendor sells thrust arms without bushings though?

I also feel that I could remove the bushings in a DIY way. I just need the hole saw (what size?) and I should be good to go. I already have a reciprocating saw so that metal sleeve can be cut easily.

TMcNasty · 1st July 2012, 22:15

A hole saw. Brilliant. I should have tried that back in the day. I applied the supplied copper grease. Didn't seem to be enough so I upgraded to wheel bearing grease. Not a peep in 22k.

A hole saw. Sheesh I wasted so much time!

Lancefitzgiben · 2nd July 2012, 02:55

I believe Bav Auto has the thrust arms without bushings. I got mine from there anyway..

bmwMcrzy · 2nd July 2012, 22:55

I ordered my powerflex bushings from bavauto, the total was $155 and they have free shipping after $150