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Fern Green 99 M3, Stamped LTWs, Conforti Software and CAI, Dinan Exhaust, OE Hellas and a few other nice touches. MRegistry listing here.
Le Mans 2002 M5, Black/Titanium, Rogue SSK, Dinan exhaust, PSS9 coilovers, a few other nice items. MRegistry listing here.
Extremely easy to get to if you've done it before, easy if you haven't.
Interestingly, My brand new sensor on the Left just gave me a bunch of false readings yesterday? Odd, but I saw my range counting up (seen that before) and so I popped to Secret menu 6, and watched it bouncing all over the place! I was overjoyed as it is only about a month old. I will put some techron Just because, surely won't hurt anything. At any rate. If I notice it happening again, I will pull the seat and check the connection, then I will measure the resistance while said problem is occurring.
Excellent steps and pics ECB, thank you. So not that easy to get to, but not hard once you have access. Is that an accurate read of this DIY?
This is what you get with that part # above.
Once you remove the electrical and fuel connections(have a paper towel handy), and the metal retaining ring, the yellow part can be popped out with a screwdriver placed under the lip. Then it's just swapping parts. For me, I would say the key to the whole process is that black rubber gasket you see in the first pic above. If that is not properly seated, you will have a fuel leak and I speak from experience. There is a corresponding gasket attached to the car which makes a seal with this gasket. I found it easier to remove the gasket from the new part, seat it properly in its desired location and then carefully seat the yellow plastic piece down into it. I even used a thin film of lube on the plastic so it would slide into place without dislocating the gaskets. With my hands, if I just tried to cram the whole thing into place, I wasn't getting a perfect seal with the gaskets. YMMV.
Even I changed the left fuel level sensor about 3 years (or 15000 km) ago it seems I have the same problem again:
Under normal driving my range is about 500 km (about 310 mls) per tank, but now if the gauge shows a bit more than 1/4, I park the car and fire it up again some hours later the yellow dot appear.
secret menue tells (sorry, I forgot to reset day trip km after last refill):
and
and after shut off the engine and switching on ignition immediatly it shows:
What could be the reason that those left level sensors start to fail so often?
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Apologies if this sounds noobish, but how easy is rear seat removal? Bentley describes as "remove rear seat lower cushion by lifting off catches at front." It's that easy?
Found this in another thread -- guy says a D7 reading means siphon pump is bad, not sensor?
Quote:
error "D7" listed (Test # 14, I think). D7 means the siphon pump is NOT working as it should.
Bentley also references a special spanner tool, 16 1 020 for removing the threaded fuel tank collar. Anyone in this thread use that? I did say you mention ECB that a screwdriver and hammer will do the trick, but then is it harder to tighten?
WeekEnd -- yes, I'll try a couple of containers just in case that helps.
Yes just reach under the front part of back seat and yank upwards, once on each side. D7 not related to siphon pump. Your R tank would be empty if your siphon pump wasn't working. Screwdriver and hammer is all you need to remove the collar.
I know the thread you're talking about. I see two different results for D7. My PA Soft BMW scanner shows D7 as Right side, where info I have found on the boards show C7 as right side (these are both for the fuel level sensors that sit in each side of the tank). The thing that you have to look for according to that thread is to see if there is a # > 0 in the three digit slot of the D7 error code. e.g. D7 88 xxx. If xxx = 000 it is not actually a current code. it could have happened last month, or last decade. If the number is > 0 then the number represents the number of times you have started the car (but counting down from 87 or something around there, not certain) and is reduced by one every time you start it, until finally reaching 000.
+1 on the seat, pop it up on each side then pull it toward the front of the car. One thing to note, is when putting it back in, you will thread the seat belt buckles through the holes by rotating them forward to get in the hole. Also, I noticed that on the sides of the seat when putting it back in it is good to compress the foam a bit, as I noticed a tear on my leather there on the rear side corner, which compressing the foam will help to avoid.
Rear seat bottom removal is like most cars, US and non US from what I have seen.
Grasp under the front corner of the seat bottom and pull up sharply about 2-3 inches and the seat should release. Then do the same on the opposite side.
Then slide the seat bottom forward about 4-5 inches and let the seat belt latches drop out, then your seat bottom is loose and you can just slide it out one of the side doors.
Did the left sensor a six months ago, and the fuel pump about 3 months ago. Used to be the car would run/computer would show "miles 'til you are not driving anymore" past "---"; now, the gauge/computer show good to around 1/2 tank indicated. Then, everything shows good for a while. Then it all falls down, gauge shows low, and computer loses about 50/60 miles 'til it stops running. Any ideas? My quess is right tank sensor is askew after the pump change. Will secret #6 help me troubleshoot this; or has somebody else had the same thing happen?
Also seeing some similar issues on the E46 in other forums after fuel pump changes as well where readings are off or other strange issues. Not sure if the float arms are getting bent or if there is a different issue?
We may need to start a thread or add to this one where before and after figures are pulled from the Secret OBC menu as well as full and empty values on known good cars as this may help everyone understand how far off the mark they may be?
I have 2 new sensors to go in my car, however, at the moment I am almost all the way empty so I can have an easy time changing the sensors. Not sure I will fill up again before pulling the sensors, but I will see what my schedule looks like over the next few weeks.
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. There is a corresponding gasket attached to the car which makes a seal with this gasket. I found it easier to remove the gasket from the new part, seat it properly in its desired location and then carefully seat the yellow plastic piece down into it. I even used a thin film of lube on the plastic so it would slide into place without dislocating the gaskets. With my hands, if I just tried to cram the whole thing into place, I wasn't getting a perfect seal with the gaskets. YMMV.
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