I've got two codes that I read from my CodeKey scanner. P1526 and P0021 both point to "A Camshaft Position Actuator Bank 2". However, my car idles fine, runs fine, and isn't down on power. Could it still be the intake CPS? I assume it is intake as it is telling me the "A" CPS.
This all came up after I added .7L of oil since it was running on the low side. I drove it for a few miles after this and the SES came up. I cleared it last night and went for another drive today, the codes popped up again. I put in a request to borrow my BMWCCA chapter's Peake scanner for a more "BMW friendly" code but I have to wait for them to respond.
P1526 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Control Open Circuit Bank 2
This one says you have a bad intake solenoid on bank 2.
P0021...."A" Camshaft Position - Timing over-advanced (Bank 2)
This one is telling you the result. the oil flow is driving the vanos to the advanced position.
Two solenoids control the intake position one is not working so the vanos is pinned in one position.
Requires doing some re soldering. Lots of threads on this commonly called vanos maintenance. Do some searching and reading then ask some questions.
Thanks for the reply. I've talked to a few shops and they are telling me it usually is just a CPS, however, I'm hesitant without bringing it to them.
I've been reading this thread as it seems the most complete with the most pictures. VANOS Solenoid Maintenance_Full DIY All I'm short is a allen socket set and then I'd have all the tools to do this job. I can solder fine as I used to play around with R/C Cars and those 1/28th scale electronics boards were much smaller than these car items. However, I haven't done much more than fluids and brakes; is this job too much for me to tackle?
I'm also thinking about bringing this to NEMotorsportsLLC for them to diagnose it. I do fear that they will tell me its just a CPS when it could be VANOS. Also, do most independent shops take the time out to resolder VANOS boards or would they just replace it? Replacing sounds like money that I do not want to spend.
I'm also getting a bigger list of codes now and it idles rough. I'm looking them up as I post.
P1526 - "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Open Circuit (Bank 2)
P0022 - "A" Camshaft Position Over-r3tarded (Bank 2)
P1350 - Misfire during start cyl 5
P1352 - Misfire during start cyl 6
P1354 - Misfire during start cyl 7
P1356 - Misfire during start cyl 8
P0316 - Engine Misfire during startup
P0172 - system too rich (bank 1)
smitty's diy works well,pretty accurate if you read the whole thing Do the orings to. There are some other things that could be wrong but if you get the solenoids clicking following smitty's step don't worry.If they don't click then you need this info. Time to get up Close and Personal with the VANOS Board and Solenoids
I'm also thinking about bringing this to NEMotorsportsLLC for them to diagnose it. I do fear that they will tell me its just a CPS when it could be VANOS. Also, do most independent shops take the time out to resolder VANOS boards or would they just replace it? Replacing sounds like money that I do not want to spend.
Mike at NEM will most likely suggest getting a solenoid rebuild from Dr. Vanos, specialty shops like that is simply too busy to be pulling and resoldering circuit boards, though it doesn't hurt to drop by and chat w/ them.
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Yea, I will stop by NEM on Monday. Already talked to Mike on the phone when I started getting the rough idle yesterday.
I took out my bank 2 VANOS solenoids today. It is sitting in my basement and I'm going to apply 9V to them and see if they all work. I really don't know how I got to this point and don't know what I'm doing next. Wish me luck...
Edit: I just tested all 4 solenoids. They all actuated as I hear the pop sound of them working. What do I do now? Did I reason out that one of my solenoids are stuck? Should I still solder the traces to make a "stronger" link?
So they all clicked but did you just try at the noid ? Standard would be start at the inside near the noid and work your way out to the plug one joint at a time.
You just added solder? Does not look like it took well to the old. A better way is to suck all the solder off and apply new.
Don't worry about the seals so much it usually take a couple of trys to get the solder worked out drop the seals in when you know you have the noids working.
I would start the car and test it. If the noids are dead the car will not hurt itself.
I put flux on the old solder and then added new solder. Some joints are much better than others but I think the picture makes it look worse than it actually is. I was able to melt the old solder and have it flow with the new solder.
I'll go out now to test it then. It scares me a little how rough the car was running yesterday, but since it shouldn't break the car, I'll try it again.
Edit: Drove for about 10 miles today after I cleared all the codes again. Nothing at all, but it was a cooler day than yesterday. The car was up to operating temperatures and I had it up to 5k RPM and nothing came up. Waiting for another hot day to see what's up. I still don't believe I did anything.
Ok, this car is driving me crazy. I got these codes again back in January right before I left for school. I bought replacement CPS sensors, intake and exhaust, from Bimmerzone and replaced them today. I cleared the codes and drove around for 20 miles, the car was happy and was running perfectly. I go out again tonight and well, SES and the same codes pop up!
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