Not sure how this is going to go down with you guys but i am going for performance and not looks.
Took a little shot of the front view now my coilovers are on so i could see if the tyres extend past the arches at the top.
Looking from above the tread starts about where the top of the arch is so cant really go out any wider.
I suppose this gives everyone an indication of the maximum width you can fit to the front of an M5 without modifying the arches.
These are 285 dunlop slicks which are the equivalant of 305 tyres someone mentioned on here.
Ive only fitted my coilovers today so ill need to lower it another 15mm from what they are now minus what they will have settled at.
Im running 10mm spacers on the front, once it was on the deck managed to almost stick my finger between the coilover and the tyre so i think theres about 6mm of clearance between them, i could go smaller on the spacer but id imagine on track there will be some tyre deflection and i wouldnt want them rubbing on the coilover body.
Took it for a quick spin and didnt seem to rub anywhere, but i will be having my arches rolled at the end of the month just to make sure when im hooning on track.
I would imagine ill easily be over 1g lateral cornering, just need to organise a track day now and im set
stock OEM 9.5" all around, which are et22 i believe.
Dunlop wet compound slicks cut to inter patten(imagine shaved toyo 888 pattern)
285/680/18s i will have to change the rear diff ratio, im thinking of pinching the ring from a e46 m3, i think that is 4.1 which should give it a bit more go and compensate for the larger circumference, though ill get it up to speed and see how much its changed my overall ratio
BC racing coilovers RM spec with 10K front and 8k Rear........i think its best to go with RM version as the spring diameter is smaller allowing more room, i went to 10k fronts as im expecting alot more load on track with these tyres but i was surprised how nice they were to drive on the road including a few small pot holes, if i need to ill order some 12-14k if they cant keep up on track, though id probably fit a set of anti-roll bars on the toughest settings before id just keep increasing the spring rate.
10mm spacers on front, 5mm on rear
Will get some more photos when i pull it out for a wash as its pretty filthy at the moment.
Pretty cool being able to go hard full WOT in first gear on crappy roads when they arnt even warm and not getting a hint of wheelspin!
Might ask they guy with the brecus car, what sort of setup he runs
__________________
2002 Carbon Black BMW ///M5 (Black Extended Leather, Anthracite Alcantara, Titanium Trim, M-Audio with Enhanced Bass, PDC) Conforti Shark Injected with M5Board Tune, CMS Custom Muffler Delete with OE Tips, AFE Pro Dry S air Filters, ACS rep CF Front Splitters, Flat Black Kidneys, Open brake ducts with Flat Black Brake Duct Rings, StopTech Stainless Steel Braided Lines, Shorty Clutch Stop, Lighted ZHP Knob, Custom Pure White Angel Eyes (Predator Ice housing and Rebel Tri-Star LED's driven by PowerPucks), Umnitza V4 ION License Plate Lights, Fogs color matched to HID's, Oil Pan Pad Heater for winter, 3M Clear bra on hood, Flat Black Style 65's on Nitto NT555's, Style 66's on Conti Extreme WinterContact's for the other 6 months, Interstate MTP-H9 Battery, Sybesmas remaned rearview mirror, Boomerang Espion Alert LoJack, MKIV Nav with 2010 maps.
I hope you can do 1g. I can do that on 285 street tires. but, those are heat-cycled slicks that could be rock hard, or they'll be overheated before you make it to the turn. Super-soft tires with sipes, designed for a car that's 500Kg lighter, are going to overheat in a straight line, especially if you run a street alignment with toe settings designed to allow general driving stability.
the plan was to run zero toe all around, take the camber out of the rear and maybe run 0.7degree on the front, but turn it up to 1.5 on track.
The thing at the moment is i can buy a pair brand new for less than $100, when im expected to pay over $450 each for a road legal version i can see how they make sense.
I would expect a 888 to last maybe 6000-7000miles with some hard use, if these only last 1500miles before they get thrown away im laughing.
Plus anytime i have a long journey say on the motorway(highway) ill be using my spare set of road wheels and tyres.
What are your thoughts on camber, toe, caster etc?
the plan was to run zero toe all around, take the camber out of the rear and maybe run 0.7degree on the front, but turn it up to 1.5 on track.
The thing at the moment is i can buy a pair brand new for less than $100, when im expected to pay over $450 each for a road legal version i can see how they make sense.
With rain slicks, you'll need to replace them every other lap on track. Sipes + super-soft compounds + 4000lbs = tread squirm = heat = dead tire. With a car that weighs 4000lbs + no rain, the tires will have close to zero life on track. Seriously. Watch races when a wet track starts to dry out - folks are on intermediate rain tires are SEARCHING for water to cool the tires down, and those cars have a way higher tire-width-to-car-weight ratio.
I'm saying this from experience. I tried big, fat rain slicks (Hoosier Grand Am Cup rain slicks) on my old 240sx race car for a time-trial event. Before I finished my "warm-up" lap the tires were overheated and starting to get greasy, by lap two they were starting to come apart. I tossed on my drift/streetish tires and turned out 4-second faster laps.
I also value my time more than having to replace tires ALLL the time. There's mounting and balancing costs + the hours to do it + the transportation to and from a shop - i'd rather spend time at home reading a good book, or learning something new.
Quote:
I would expect a 888 to last maybe 6000-7000miles with some hard use, if these only last 1500miles before they get thrown away im laughing.
Plus anytime i have a long journey say on the motorway(highway) ill be using my spare set of road wheels and tyres.
What are your thoughts on camber, toe, caster etc?
Im thinking if they last
Caster on my car isn't adjustable. Camber should be set based on static ride height spring rates, weight, track, etc. You'll need to determine your suspension's travel, and make sure that you have the most contact patch when loaded. Toe, you'll have to play with. I generally start with the car zero'd out and play around until I think it feels good (disclaimer: what "feels" good could very likely be not as fast, but, i'm doing HPDEs, not wheel-to-wheel racing).
'Turbo', as mentioned you'll probably be better off with AD08's or similar, I run these on the road and track. I use slicks/ cut slicks (wets) on the track car (M3), and as mentioned once the wets are heat cycled they'll be useless, where the AD08's/ R888 will still be in there.
Unless I've missed something somewhere in your post, using 'wets' is pointless unless there's standing water.
With rain slicks, you'll need to replace them every other lap on track. Sipes + super-soft compounds + 4000lbs = tread squirm = heat = dead tire. With a car that weighs 4000lbs + no rain, the tires will have close to zero life on track. Seriously. Watch races when a wet track starts to dry out - folks are on intermediate rain tires are SEARCHING for water to cool the tires down, and those cars have a way higher tire-width-to-car-weight ratio.
I'm saying this from experience. I tried big, fat rain slicks (Hoosier Grand Am Cup rain slicks) on my old 240sx race car for a time-trial event. Before I finished my "warm-up" lap the tires were overheated and starting to get greasy, by lap two they were starting to come apart. I tossed on my drift/streetish tires and turned out 4-second faster laps.
I also value my time more than having to replace tires ALLL the time. There's mounting and balancing costs + the hours to do it + the transportation to and from a shop - i'd rather spend time at home reading a good book, or learning something new.
Caster on my car isn't adjustable. Camber should be set based on static ride height spring rates, weight, track, etc. You'll need to determine your suspension's travel, and make sure that you have the most contact patch when loaded. Toe, you'll have to play with. I generally start with the car zero'd out and play around until I think it feels good (disclaimer: what "feels" good could very likely be not as fast, but, i'm doing HPDEs, not wheel-to-wheel racing).
I can get dry slicks for similar money, if i had them cut to inter would that be a better option?
Cant run full slicks really as i think that would be a bit to obvious on the road.
What are sipes?
I would imagine they will become slicks pretty quickly if they wear as you say which i would think would cover the tread squirm issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by leem5
'Turbo', as mentioned you'll probably be better off with AD08's or similar, I run these on the road and track. I use slicks/ cut slicks (wets) on the track car (M3), and as mentioned once the wets are heat cycled they'll be useless, where the AD08's/ R888 will still be in there.
Unless I've missed something somewhere in your post, using 'wets' is pointless unless there's standing water.
I would love to have a set of 888s or ad08s but they are to expensive, it will end up costing me £1200 for a set of tyres and thats a bit to rich for me.
Ill see how I get on with these first before moving to something else as ive bought them now.
10Likes
Linear Mode
