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Old 8th May 2012, 16:35   #11
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Things may never get worse or worse could be the sensor actually fails and leaves you unable to start.

One of the bad parts about having a code reader - ignorance is bliss
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Old 8th May 2012, 16:57   #12
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You can use a standard vernier caliper and use it to check for depth.

Google Image Result for http://vernier-caliper.com/images/products/800px-vernier_caliper.png

Rest the base of the caliper on the housing and open the calipers which in turn extends part 3. when part 3 touches the flywheel tooth, the reading on the gauge is your depth. Simply as whatever distance 3 protrudes from the body of the caliper, is exactly the same amount as the caliper jaws are open

If you are really worried i'm sure if you turned up at an indy with sensor in hand they wouldn't (and shouldn't) charge you more than an hour of ramp time for this
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Old 8th May 2012, 19:33   #13
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Are you reading your codes with a Peake reader? There are several Crank sensor codes that can show up as shadow codes. They don't mean that the crank sensor is bad. I have just started reading about them. They have to do with the shut down of the engine. Not sure of all the details yet, but I am getting there. It is a four stroke so when the engine starts spinning, the first pulse could be from either bank. The DME shuts the engine down and is supposed to know where it stopped the engine. Sometimes it does not stop correctly. So when the engine starts spinning it assumes it is correct but if it does not fire then it decides it is on the wrong bank and switches banks. It places a shadow code that is related to the crank sensor. In the shadow codes with the correct reading software there will be a second hex code in this format 10/00. I use that one because it is the only one I have seen.
The point that I am getting at is if you change the sensor and still get the code it has to do with the position of the engine during shut down, which would likely be compression or vanos.
You could try something simple to see if possibly it is shut down issue. Make sure you idle the car for a few seconds, make sure the A/C is off and make sure your idle is ~650. Then see if on the restart the car is code free before you shut it off then check again once you shut it off.
I suspect that you will have to change your sensor to be safe as we just don't know about these codes as of yet.

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Old 8th May 2012, 20:24   #14
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Quote:
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Are you reading your codes with a Peake reader?
Yes.

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There are several Crank sensor codes that can show up as shadow codes.
I get only this, no additional ones.

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You could try something simple to see if possibly it is shut down issue. Make sure you idle the car for a few seconds, make sure the A/C is off and make sure your idle is ~650. Then see if on the restart the car is code free before you shut it off then check again once you shut it off.
I will give it a try.
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Old 9th May 2012, 22:51   #15
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You could try something simple to see if possibly it is shut down issue. Make sure you idle the car for a few seconds, make sure the A/C is off and make sure your idle is ~650. Then see if on the restart the car is code free before you shut it off then check again once you shut it off.
I suspect that you will have to change your sensor to be safe as we just don't know about these codes as of yet.
So I tried that and the result is: when I clear the code, start the engine and test again (while the engine is running) there is no error. Once I stop the engine and recheck, the error has appeared. I have no idea what that means though.
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Old 10th May 2012, 00:38   #16
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I don't know what it means either but it is a data point to start I know two others that have reported this behavior. I will ask them too. Yours is a pending code never turned on the light?
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Old 10th May 2012, 00:40   #17
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I don't know what it means either but it is a data point to start I know two others that have reported this behavior. I will ask them too. Yours is a pending code never turned on the light?
I haven't gotten the light. I would not have noticed it at all unless I changed my oil and decided to just check for errors.

I would appreciate it if you could give me some input from your guys.
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Old 10th May 2012, 00:44   #18
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Will do.
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Old 10th May 2012, 01:07   #19
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I'm seeing the shadow code 10 for CKPS too with BMW Scanner 1.4. I cleared it and it came back. I was going to just keep ignoring it but now you've got me curious. So we are both interested in what you find out, sailor.

If I understand you correctly, since the DME identifies the firing TDC using the exhaust cam wheel (see great thread below) when the engine is running, it tries to get a head start during cranking by assuming a certain number of crank rotations after the last shutdown, or maybe a certain number of compression strokes so it can take an educated guess. Neat.

If it gets it wrong, I would expect a longer crank but I haven't noticed that. Maybe the OP has.

I can see a change in compression affecting the "run-on" period after shutdown but why VANOS? Because cam timing affects compression? It would be interesting if this code indicated a VANOS problem.

By the way, what is a "shadow" code? A pending one or something different?

Flywheel sensor wheel TDC...?
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Old 10th May 2012, 01:46   #20
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I will read that thread fully in a bit. I wish I could drag the info out of where I am reading it and post some of it so it could be discussed some of it I don't truly understand. It is a secured site for that manual I pay for. As tough as it is to copy info from that the site is more secure. Prtscrn does not work when you hit paste all you see is Stolen in big print and then a lecture on how this info is copyrighted and if they did not want your monthly fee they would be happy to put you in jail.
Back on topic you are one of the two that I know that has this code. Are you getting the same as Blk4 10/00? Does it appear after a start or does it not show until you shutdown?
As far as I know from my reading every time you turn off the engine it stops in the exact same spot and strangely it seems that is first choked off by adding max exhaust and then the valves readjusted for easy start up. What I think I have read(sometimes I don't really understand until the tenth read though) is the engine rotates a specific amount and then 5 is fired then 4 and if 4 does not see an aceleration it goes to 2 instead of 8. I don't think you would notice unless you were looking for that minor delay. Sort of like the Chevy engine you explained to me.
Then it starts reading the cam timing once an aceleration is noted. Seems like they have the valves positioned, this I can't get my head around because there is no oil pressure so how do the valves stay in any specific time
There is also some stuff on reading the last position of the crank on shut down and storing that location for the next start, but that seems to be contradictory to the first strategy. All that said I only browsed this once and need to sit down with my head clear to grasp it all.
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