If the OP can't physically get heat from the vents than his problem is NOT related to any sensors.
The "gasket" is more accurately described as an "inner seal". It seals the open loop from closed loop operation. If the seal is "leaking" it just means that more coolant is passing through the area than it should, which might keep the operating temps too low. 70C seems to be too low for just a leaky seal, that was just replaced too...
Not a quick fix on this one!
Maybe check fan operation? - staying on too much causing excessive air movement?
Does the car seem like it is running rich? Lots of tailpipe carbon?
I'm really beginning to wonder if the Behr thermostats aren't having issues. I know Behr is the OEM supplier, but might not necessarily mean they are identical or have identical QA (hard to believe though even as I type it).
Mine always warms up to around 82-84*, but it takes a good solid 10 minutes of driving to get there. Is this the same issue, or normal? I'm talking about OIL temp, not WATER temp (which works as most other cars do, and is warm in 2-4 minutes).
Going through this too again. Replaced in November 2010. Failed again in October 2011 and just failed again yesterday. All Behr units from Pelican. Think Im gonna try a BMW oem one this time.
hi i have had the same problem changed the t/stat gave the garage inner seal etc,but i dont think they changed seal and my obc reading does not get above 68, i have changed both sensors i also get the temp gauge shoot up to red as soon as switch of the ignition off and back on it goes back to normal do yo thinks it's a t/stat problem?
Im assuming you bled the system properly, running the heater at full blast to make sure there arent air pockets in the system. This can manifest as the symptoms you describe when it's cold out.
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