The PLX gauges are a PITA to set up, but provide fantastic information.
Let's see some more data!
The front cooler is the A2W heat exchanger right? Not an intercooler in the normal sense.
Can you provide technical details on this portion?
Pump info, how much pressure it runs, thermal capacity, etc?
It will be interesting to see how the engine water and oil temps hold up in the summer heat city driving with A/C on.
100+C water temp easy is my guess.
You are adding a whole other core blocking the radiator and A/C condenser core.
But - Car looks great - chrome kidneys have to go though - aluminum would look cool if you don't want black.
Really looking forward to the PRO shots and the video of your freshly detailed S/C beast.
Unless you have had the paint just about perfect before - it's really hard to understand the difference it makes when you are out under a cloudless blue sky. This lasts all of 2 weeks though when you are forced to wash it and inevitably introduce marring and swirls into the clear.
Now for some real road numbers -
Since you are going to be replacing your tires soon - Would you be kind enough to video their demise and share with the group?
Closed course of course.
Then with the fresh rubber and a seated clutch.
80-120kph 3rd gear passing time - steady state 80kph - then time from application of WOT to 120Kph - good idea of throttle response.
60-130mph roll-on time - same deal.
1/4mile time.
Dynos are fun and all - but it's about making use of that new power that is important
Thanks Tim for sharing the experience with us - it's been great to follow the build.
The heat exchanger and aftercooler have their own pump in a closed circuit. No reservoir.
I have a few videos I may post up of me having some fun, one of which is 60 mph-135'ish mph. I just don't want to listen to the people complain about it not being on a closed course. Yes, it was on the highway. I'm sorry. I was having fun.....
I will report more data as I drive the car and get everything buttoned up the way I want it.
The front cooler is the A2W heat exchanger right? Not an intercooler in the normal sense.
Can you provide technical details on this portion?
Pump info, how much pressure it runs, thermal capacity, etc?
It will be interesting to see how the engine water and oil temps hold up in the summer heat city driving with A/C on.
100+C water temp easy is my guess.
You are adding a whole other core blocking the radiator and A/C condenser core.
But - Car looks great - chrome kidneys have to go though - aluminum would look cool if you don't want black.
Really looking forward to the PRO shots and the video of your freshly detailed S/C beast.
Unless you have had the paint just about perfect before - it's really hard to understand the difference it makes when you are out under a cloudless blue sky. This lasts all of 2 weeks though when you are forced to wash it and inevitably introduce marring and swirls into the clear.
Now for some real road numbers -
Since you are going to be replacing your tires soon - Would you be kind enough to video their demise and share with the group?
Closed course of course.
Then with the fresh rubber and a seated clutch.
80-120kph 3rd gear passing time - steady state 80kph - then time from application of WOT to 120Kph - good idea of throttle response.
60-130mph roll-on time - same deal.
1/4mile time.
Dynos are fun and all - but it's about making use of that new power that is important
Thanks Tim for sharing the experience with us - it's been great to follow the build.
Is that all? I think you left of some specs, for example, what kind of aluminum should he use for the new kidneys?
Everybody is overlooking the bearing temp of the supercharger head unit
My intercooler water temps are well below 212F during the summer with the AC on, if that system is that hot something is very wrong.
Tim's set up uses the Bosch/Ford water pump that the Lightnings, Mustangs and most supercharger kits use.
How is 60 to 130 measured? Is it steady state 60, then punch to 130 or 0 to 130 then subtract the 0 to 60 time?
1/4 mile is the American way to measure power whereas 60 to 130 is more European for faster cars, interested to see both.
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e60 ssk, zhp knob, brake ducts, ate super gold, ate brake shoes, pagid yellow rs19, pagid blue, titanium backing plates, dinan rsb, mk4 gps, vxx ae, brushed aluminum trim swap, gp2, bell sa2010, sparco tornado, sparco speed+ racing, 3mm front spacers, turner 32mm bolts, x5 thrust arm bushings, OE 9.5" squared 275/35/18 dunlop direzza zii, OE staggered 245/40-275/35/18 direzza z1 star spec, staggered style 66 on 235-245/45/17 blizzak ws70, pentosin mtf2, liqui moly 10w60, mobil1 0w40, ground control camber plates, bilstein b8 monotube dampers, intrax of holland racing springs*tbi
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dynojet 319ft-lb, 341whp, 13.51@104.3 englishtown, lime rock 1'09.9", lightning 1'23.420", thunderbolt 1'44.2", watkins glen *tbd, secret menu maf test, 138+ 2nd gear
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Favorite Quote: "Understeer is when you hit the wall with your front end. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with your back end. Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall. Torque is how far you move the wall when you hit it. "
How is 60 to 130 measured? Is it steady state 60, then punch to 130 or 0 to 130 then subtract the 0 to 60 time?
1/4 mile is the American way to measure power whereas 60 to 130 is more European for faster cars, interested to see both.
Actually, I don't know how they do it. Whether the time is measured accelerating through 60 on the way to 130, or steady state 60 then start accelerating.
Unless you had a datalogger like the VBOX overlaying throttle opening - it would be tough to measure time with the throttle lag.
I'd prefer the steady 60mph then "punch it" approach.
The e60 M5 is something like in the 10 second range.
I really like the 80kph-120kph as this is a representative of what kind of passing speed you would find on any 2 lane rural road.
Ideally it would be great to see some numbers comparing a healthy stock car to this new s/c car (before the bottom end blows out of it )