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M5 rear deck removal for stereo upgrade (pics!)

4K views 1 reply 2 participants last post by  Teutonaddict 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

I just spent the last couple hours of my life removing the subwoofers and rear deck from my new m5. Gonna upgrade the audio on it, cuz well, that's what you do to a bad car like this :)

I found the basic e39 deck removal instructions on bmwtips.com, but I thought I'd elaborate on some of them. Please note, this is really pretty easy, but you want to take your time and do it right (duh!). Here's what I did:

1) Remove subwoofer enclosure

open trunk, crawl in, and remove the three screws on the bottom of the subwoofer cover (it's carpeted). I believe they're 8mm. Then the cover should fold down to reveal the sub enclosure itself. DO NOT remove the carpeted cover all the way yet, just let it hang.

Now pull the two black plastic pins in the center bottom of the cover, and finally remove the screw (maybe two) holding the sub enclosure to the bottom of the deck. I know that one is right next to the plug coming from the amp, there may be one on the opposite side too.

Now lift the subenclosure slightly to unhook it from the ledge it's hung on towards the front of the car. Should remove easily now.

2) Rear deck removal

- Fold down rear seat backs.

(self-explanatory)

- pull off side seat bolsters (pull out at top and fold forward.

These can be a little tricky. You've got to pull pretty hard to get them off. You can see the little plug that inserts into the back of them in a couple of my pics. Essentially you just wiggle your hands in behind the top of the seat bolster and then pull evenly and steadily until it comes from. You PROBABLY won't break anything since the plug is metal and the recepticle in the back of the seat appears to be a polymer. But you could conceivably break the support in the back of the bolster itself if you pull just from the top. Be careful.

- remove rear head restraints

This can be a bear too. I found the best way was to lay down under them and push straight up on them from underneath in a quick jerk. One of my head rest bars actually came out of the head rest, but I was able to remove it (w/o scratches!) with duct tape, vice pliers, and a hammer. In fact, nearly everything in life can be fixed with those tools :)

- remove plastic trim panel above opening to trunk.

Best way is to lay down under it and stick your hand up through the hole for the subs. You can feel around and push up at least one side of it and then pull it out from the top.

- remove 3 seat belt tether caps (if you have these - plastic triangles on the upper surface of the package shelf)

Easy. Just ratchet them out.

- remove lights in C pillar panels.

This can be tricky, as you don't want to break the light, the plastic trim, or mar your interior. Get an installer's pick or a very small screwdriver and work it into the side an inch or two so you're touching the light and interior with only the tube shaft of the tool. Slowly and carefully run the tool around the light and it'll pull out. Then just use pliers or your finger to pull out the light connector.

- remove C pillar panels

This is easy one you get the lights out. There are two 8mm screws behind the lights. Once you unscrew those, just reach your hand into the hole for the light and pull firmly until it unsnaps. Then just pull it out.

- undo seat belts under rear seat (or be prepared to have them in your way while removing the packag shelf.

Pretty easy. Just get a ratchet with 12" extension and (i think) a 5/16" socket. Should come right out.

- lift package shelf at front and slide forward (keep lifting as you pull - need to get clearance between components.

Note that I don't think you need to remove the speaker grills to get the deck out. Anyway, here are a few pics. I'll take more as I put it back together (since that's much easier!! :)

http://www.zanson.com/yzf/bmwm5/

It looks to me like there are ten inch diameter holes just begging to be cut in the deck for some new subs. I know Andy Menard did this without any cutting though...Andy, can you tell us where the sound comes through from your install? It doesn't look like the 5" hole already there is enough to port the sound...

Hope this helps someone!

Jeff
 
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#2 ·
Thanks for the info, Jeff!

Actually, I just went thru the process of removing the DSP/Nokia 'subwoofer' from my '00 Beast. That's a whole lot of plastic for relatively output! I crafted a new 'deck' out of 3/4" MDF to house two a/d/s/ 10" subs and an MTX 500-watt D-class monoblock subwoofer amp.

A beach vacation has intervened to stop my project mid-stream, but I will have it all powered up within a week.

For the time being, I am going to rely on the two 4" bandpass ports for entry into the cabin from the trunk. Since mine is a 'free-air' install, I've sealed off all other apertures into the cabin with Dynamat and thinner MDF.

I have yet to take the rear 5-1/4" drivers out of the back deck (that's next), but I will take your instrux with me! I've had two boxes of MBQuart RSB-215s in the basement for over a year to perform the speaker-driver replacement described on www.bmwtips.com (and eerily similar to Andy Menard's set-up!)

I can't wait to have improved sound--after 42K miles! I'll let you know what I think of the existing 4" ports, and whether they're sufficient.

-Dave
 
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