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Old 31st August 2011, 15:54   #21
ger
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When one of my cam sensors started to go bad I had some strange behaviour at the lower revs. Put in a new one (exh, bank 1 iirc) and it went away, behaving nicely at low revs again.

Get the car scanned, it will probably have a stored code but the engine light will not come on, unless it happens more than a certain number of times.

Hth.
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Old 31st August 2011, 15:58   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feeblebob View Post
Mentioned in post 13 above. Do TPS's generally throw a light or a code?
I was exaggerating. I actually mentioned them already on page one. lol. No they don't always. I was having the identical symptoms for awhile with no codes being set at all and I would dodge the problem by staying in a different rpm range. Then it started to occur more frequently at other rpms and finally set a code for throttle potentiometer. Replaced them both. Perfect.
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Old 20th October 2011, 16:13   #23
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Update

Just an update to make the thread a little more useful for future searchers...

The car finally threw a code (I forget what actual Peake code it was), for the exhaust cam position sensor on bank 2. I replaced that last night, and all is well. No more chugging at low rpm/load. It also seems that the exhaust has less over-run burble when coming off the throttle and listening to the rpms come down. I think it pulls better throughout the rev range as well.
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Old 20th October 2011, 18:07   #24
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How long in miles did this go on before it finally thru a code? Just food for thought, even though the other three are not throwing codes don't you think they could be downhill too. There is a reason some of us replace the originals at some point with the updated ones.
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Old 20th October 2011, 18:45   #25
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How long in miles did this go on before it finally thru a code? Just food for thought, even though the other three are not throwing codes don't you think they could be downhill too. There is a reason some of us replace the originals at some point with the updated ones.
My car has less than 100,000 km. I paid $180 for the sensor from the dealer so I could install it riight away, so I was reluctant to order up 4 as a "just in case". Had the sensor been on the intake side of bank 2, I probably would suggest doing both, but I was thankful that I didn't have to. Access to the exhaust sensor was bad enough for me. As far as your "there is a reason some of us replace the originals at some point with updated ones" statement, I've read differing opinions, and it seems the bank 2 exhaust sensor is more prone to failure than the others. It's not like I replaced one of two MAFs.
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