This DIY may be helpful to at least evaluate or troubleshoot those situations when replacing suspension components, after heavy track use, or the incidental pot hole or parking curb insult. If motivated you can not only measure but adjust alignment settings all without lasers, lifts, etc... that is, if you're brave. As a disclaimer, don't adjust anything if you're not comfortable with this sort of thing. I've actually gotten my toe exactly perfect before being brought in for a 4 wheel alignment, but I digress. The scope if this DIY is to ensure your car is tracking true and toe is where it should be. I do not intend to cover caster or camber and those should be checked with professional equipment. Also, alignment specs are posted on this forum and elsewhere and everyone has their own opinion as to the best within spec settings so I won't cover those particulars. If you're getting involved in this then you probably already know what numbers you're after.
Tools:
- tape measure
- ratchet
- 5/8 inch socket
- 17 mm socket
- 15 mm open crescent wrench
- flashlight (torch for our UK members)
- WD-40 and heat (depending on circumstances)
(please see pictures at end)
First, start at the rear. If the rear is not aligned, the front won't be. I measure across the back and then front of the tires with a tape measure. The original spec PS2s are great due to the linear tread pattern. Obviously some tires will not lend kindly to this exercise. Use a part of the tire which is consistent. The rear PS2s have a narrow valley in the middle just made for the lip end of the tape measure to grab on to (see pic 1). It isn't possible to measure 3 and 9:00 (more like 4 and 7:30) but close enough. Compare readings (pic 2). Again I won't focus on specs but 1/16" to 3/32" difference is reasonable. If not the case this needs an adjustment. But wait there's more...
Next check the track of the car. It should be going down the road straight and there should be no yaw angle. Back the beast out onto the driveway. Spray some water ahead of the car. Get in, and briskly drive straight into the garage without turning the steering wheel. Apply the brake and don't let it back up. Get out and with a flashlight look at the tread of the front wheel where it tracks back the the front of the rear wheel (see pic 3 looking back at the front of the left rear tire). Each side of the car should show a symmetric relationship. In my case with PS2s the center valley of the rear tire is seen exactly in the middle of the front tire's third tread, counting from the middle outward. If there is asymmetry, the rear toe-in needs to be adjusted to shift the car's rear end left or right. To do this, there is an eccentric bolt on the upper control arm, forward of the rear shock tower on each side (Pic 4 shows this on the right rear side). The bolt may be snug and to turn the bolt the nut at the front side of the bracket may need to be loosened a bit. Then, a 5/8 socket can turn this in the appropriate manner. The eccentric cam may be up or down or left or right so I can't specifically say which way it will need to be turned. However if the large lobe of the cam is pointed out, the toe in on that side is maximally toed in, as example.
Next check toe in of the front wheels with the tape measure as done with the rear wheels. If a change is needed (especially if the rear was adjusted) get out the 17 mm socket and loosen the bolt on the tie rod (pic 5 - rusty colored bolt pointed downward). Then the 15 mm crescent can grab and turn the inner half of the tie rod. Some free movement occurs until the ball joint ends its motion. When suspended downward the push of the wrench backwards to the rear of the car will turn the wheels to the left. Said differently, it will increase toe in on the right wheel and decrease toe in on the left. If toe is set but the steering wheel is still tilted then turn both tie rods the same way. Again, as example if the steering wheel is cocked to the left on a straight then both wheels should be oriented towards the left. Put the crescent wrench on the tie rods and push down and to the rear on both sides equally to preserve the toe. Lastly, remember to tighten all bolts before packing it in.
N.B. I make all front adjustments with the car on the ground. If lifted, the ratio of measurement across front and rear of the wheels is not always preserved. However, the car should be moved 5-10 feet in reverse and then forward between adjustments. For the rear, the rear tires may need to be removed to get to the eccentric bolt. I always lower the car, move it, and re-measure before re-adjusting. There's too much friction with the wheels on the ground to accurately measure the changes made. This takes time, lots of time, but is worth it to get an absolutely straight wheel.:thumbsup:
Tools:
- tape measure
- ratchet
- 5/8 inch socket
- 17 mm socket
- 15 mm open crescent wrench
- flashlight (torch for our UK members)
- WD-40 and heat (depending on circumstances)
(please see pictures at end)
First, start at the rear. If the rear is not aligned, the front won't be. I measure across the back and then front of the tires with a tape measure. The original spec PS2s are great due to the linear tread pattern. Obviously some tires will not lend kindly to this exercise. Use a part of the tire which is consistent. The rear PS2s have a narrow valley in the middle just made for the lip end of the tape measure to grab on to (see pic 1). It isn't possible to measure 3 and 9:00 (more like 4 and 7:30) but close enough. Compare readings (pic 2). Again I won't focus on specs but 1/16" to 3/32" difference is reasonable. If not the case this needs an adjustment. But wait there's more...
Next check the track of the car. It should be going down the road straight and there should be no yaw angle. Back the beast out onto the driveway. Spray some water ahead of the car. Get in, and briskly drive straight into the garage without turning the steering wheel. Apply the brake and don't let it back up. Get out and with a flashlight look at the tread of the front wheel where it tracks back the the front of the rear wheel (see pic 3 looking back at the front of the left rear tire). Each side of the car should show a symmetric relationship. In my case with PS2s the center valley of the rear tire is seen exactly in the middle of the front tire's third tread, counting from the middle outward. If there is asymmetry, the rear toe-in needs to be adjusted to shift the car's rear end left or right. To do this, there is an eccentric bolt on the upper control arm, forward of the rear shock tower on each side (Pic 4 shows this on the right rear side). The bolt may be snug and to turn the bolt the nut at the front side of the bracket may need to be loosened a bit. Then, a 5/8 socket can turn this in the appropriate manner. The eccentric cam may be up or down or left or right so I can't specifically say which way it will need to be turned. However if the large lobe of the cam is pointed out, the toe in on that side is maximally toed in, as example.
Next check toe in of the front wheels with the tape measure as done with the rear wheels. If a change is needed (especially if the rear was adjusted) get out the 17 mm socket and loosen the bolt on the tie rod (pic 5 - rusty colored bolt pointed downward). Then the 15 mm crescent can grab and turn the inner half of the tie rod. Some free movement occurs until the ball joint ends its motion. When suspended downward the push of the wrench backwards to the rear of the car will turn the wheels to the left. Said differently, it will increase toe in on the right wheel and decrease toe in on the left. If toe is set but the steering wheel is still tilted then turn both tie rods the same way. Again, as example if the steering wheel is cocked to the left on a straight then both wheels should be oriented towards the left. Put the crescent wrench on the tie rods and push down and to the rear on both sides equally to preserve the toe. Lastly, remember to tighten all bolts before packing it in.
N.B. I make all front adjustments with the car on the ground. If lifted, the ratio of measurement across front and rear of the wheels is not always preserved. However, the car should be moved 5-10 feet in reverse and then forward between adjustments. For the rear, the rear tires may need to be removed to get to the eccentric bolt. I always lower the car, move it, and re-measure before re-adjusting. There's too much friction with the wheels on the ground to accurately measure the changes made. This takes time, lots of time, but is worth it to get an absolutely straight wheel.:thumbsup: