In keeping with the philosophy "learn to crawl before try to walk", I have focused primarily on restoring stock performance and resisted jumping to go fast goodies. For the first time, I have quantitative data that confirms my Beast is putting down descent numbers (319lb/ft, 341whp).
The next step is to clock the almight ET. It will be the first time for both me and the Beast (PO was a doctor, doubt he ever dragged it). I plan to visit the Englishtown drag strip (only place within reasonable driving distance), and I'm hoping for a 13.5 around 105, leaving 0.1 sec slack for rookie driver If all goes well, will then enroll in a couple of road course school days and let her loose on Limerock Park, and eventually Watkins Glen.
Here's the dyno adjusted to DJ. It was 85F, a bit humid, near sea level. Before hitting the track, I will have Dinan rear roll bar installed, running E60 SSK now. Slowly, but surely paving the way for what will eventually be a reliable, intercooled FI setup with performance headers, and a tune. Appreciate any comments and suggestions on the journey.
__________________ Maint: Liqui Moly 10W60 Race Tech GT1 Engine Oil, Pentosin MTF2, Mobil1 Full Synthetic ATF Steering Fluid, ATE Super Gold Brake Fluid Wheels: Style 65 18x9.5" Squared 275/35/18 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Sport Star Spec, 3mm Front Spacers, Turner Motorsports Extended Bolts Braking: Genuine BMW Rotors, Pagid Yellow RS 19 Endurance Racing Compound, Titanium Backing Plates, Open Brake Ducts, FTE Lines Handling: Intrax Racing Springs, Bilstein B8 Monotube Dampers, Ground Control Camber Plates, Dinan Strut Tower Brace, Dinan Rear Sway Bar, X5 Thrust Arm Bushing Power: Is Nothing Without Control, Stock Motor Dyno'd @ 341WHP, 319LB-FT Dynojet. Aero: None Yet Race: firstname.lastname@example.org Englishtown, Lime Rock Park 1'09.9", New Jersey Motorsport Park Lightning Circuit 1'23.420", Thunderbolt Circuit 1'44.2", Watkins Glen International *tbd, Monticello Motor Club *tbd. Gear: Bell SA2010 Sport Helmet, Sparco Tornado Racing Gloves, Sparco Speed+ Racing Shoes, OMP Balaclava Winter: Style 66 17x8, 17x9 Staggered 235/45/17-245/45/17 Bridgestone Blizzak WS70 Studless Snows Interior: E60 SSK, ZHP Shift Knob, MK4 Navigation, Umnitza VXX Angle Eyes, Brushed Aluminum Trim Swap Favorite Quote: "Understeer is when you hit the wall with your front end. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with your back end. Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall. Torque is how far you move the wall when you hit it. "
Finally had a chance for the second installment of this series. I stopped by Northeast Motorsports in NJ to have a few things looked at, and swang by Englishtown Raceway on the way home (ok, it was a 100 mile detour). The car put down 13.75 @ a hair under 104. The clutch slips in the higher RPM, and the car weighted in at 4206 lbs with driver. I may have left a couple tenths on the table slipping through the clutch, but I'm happy with the power it is putting down.
The clutch/flywheel/rms/giubo will all be replaced before the track event in April, here're a couple shots leaving NEM in the morning and the timing slip. Got myself a new camera so no more grainy pictures!
Easier said than done, but a little better reaction time will help too.
Talk to some of our resident drag racers, (Clemster among others) about how to stage, shallow or deep, that will help a little bit also.
Reaction time really just helps when actually racing another car to get a jump on them as opposed to getting a really great ET where the time begins when your trigger the sensor that starts the time. Shallow staging is good for better ET's and better trap speed.
2002 Carbon Black BMW ///M5 (Black Extended Leather, Anthracite Alcantara, Titanium Trim, M-Audio with Enhanced Bass, PDC) Conforti Shark Injected with M5Board Tune, CMS Custom Muffler Delete with OE Tips, AFE Pro Dry S air Filters, ACS rep CF Front Splitters, Flat Black Kidneys, Open brake ducts with Flat Black Brake Duct Rings, StopTech Sport Cross Drilled Rotors with Pagid Pads, F10 Inspired Painted Calipers, StopTech Stainless Steel Braided Lines, Shorty Clutch Stop, Lighted ZHP Knob, Custom Pure White Angel Eyes (Predator Ice housing and Rebel Tri-Star LED's driven by PowerPucks), Umnitza V4 ION License Plate Lights, Fogs color matched to HID's, Oil Pan Pad Heater for winter, Stant 82F T-Stat, 3M Clear bra on hood, Flat Black Style 65's on Nitto NT555's, Style 66's on Conti Extreme WinterContact's for the other 6 months, Interstate MTP-H9 Battery, Boomerang Espion Alert LoJack, MKIV Nav with 2014 maps.
Actually shallow staging will result in a slightly higher trap speed because the car covers more distance. Whether to shallow or deep stage depends on lots of variables, but it is not going to make a huge difference in most case, especially with anything that can actually be driven to the track.
For a car like a M5 it won't make any material difference.
True lots of variables but they do add up. After all, we are talking tenths and hundreths here.
The launch is the most important. Modulating the throttle and clutch- not spinning the tires too much is key and not missing any shifts and definitely not hitting the rev limiter. Keeping the car straight.
I usually rev up to 1800-2000 rpm and drop clutch for a good hard launch and modulate the throttle until the tires grip.
Had the inaugural shake down at Lime Rock Park yesterday, weather was perfect. I learned a great deal about the racing line, roll on throttle and braking from my instructor, who placed 2nd in ST2 class TT. I had an unofficial time of just under 1'10", but there's leaps to learn about smooth turn in, transition and track out. It was an intense but rewarding day, here's a quick pic, video to follow.