I just did that secret menu test, the Ktemp stays between 88 and 89 celcius at idle after driving the car for about 20 minutes. I'll grab the other readings once I get a chance, popping into a meeting now.
The car is driving ok right now, I'll try to get the readings when it's idling rough.
I also filled up with new gas (I had 1/4 tank left prior) just to make sure it wasn't sucking up dirty gas near the bottom of the tank.
Not sure what your outside temps are, but 88-89C seems a bit high to me for idling after a normal drive. My highway temps generally are in the mid 80's.
Peake code 69 is often a bad tstat. They tend to fail in the open position, so the car runs cold. See how the car runs on the highway, anything below 78-79C generally means tstat needs replacing.
Since the problem goes away with restart, it sounds electrical. That always leads me to check the MAF's (and when you unlock the OBC, you can do the dynamic MAF test, #4, option #2) and the 4 CPS.
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit w/ 1 range colder NGK's, 92mm pulley, 440 Big Greens, TTFS alpha N tune for meth, RK plenum plates, Sachs high performance PP and CCC proprietary clutch disc, stock DMFW, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit, Speedhut boost gauge, Dinan TB's and VS, KB BAP, Howerton/HFS-3 Aquamist WI trunk setup.......