Review and Comments on M Audio enhanced bass subwoofer install - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

mofo_knows · 15th June 2002, 21:55

This is a brief report on my favorite M5 upgrade thus far. Today, I installed the M Audio enhanced bass subwoofers in my 2000 M5. You may know, the 2000 M5 did not have the enhanced bass option. However, the subwoofers that are available as an option on 2001+ are available now as OEM parts, and are a plug and play retrofit.

I have to say, the results are phenomal.

Here is my disclaimer. While I am a trained musician, who arguably has an educated ear for sound, my concept of what sounds good and yours could be quite different. I know for a fact, my high end has been impaired so I tend to prefer what some would say are exaggerated, extra-sparkling highs. And, as a drummer, I need to hear a real kick drum sound, not the sound of a thwack on a cardboard box. This was my primary complaint with the stock bass sound on the 2000 M5.

As an aside - some recordings that have incredible, accurate bass drum sounds are Rush - Moving Pictures (tracks 1, 2, and 4), Pete Townshend "Give Blood", Deftones "My Own Summer, Filter "Welcome to the Fold", Van Halen "Finish What You Started", and Motley Crue "Power to the Music". But I digress.....

I will also point out that this is NOT the best car stereo I have ever heard, by any means. But, with the DSP system in the M5 you have precious little choice on upgrades. You have to pretty much tear out the whole system and start over again, if you want a substantial difference.

In this case, for $380 and ~5 hours of time, I have dramatically changed the low end response in my car. On a bass heavy track, with 30-80 Hz vibration, my back and hindquarters vibrate. And you get a tighter, punchier sound in the 100-150Hz range as well. I also found, I had to re-equalize and turn down the bass on the DSP EQ. This means (I think) more power to the mids and highs from the amplifier. Or, more headroom, at the same output volume. Anyway, I can’t say enough good things about it.

A few details. I got the subs from www.pacificbmw.com. I worked with Lui. I recommend him and them. The cost was $189 per sub, and the BMW OEM P/N is 65-13-7-894-047 (you need 2). This is a 10” subwoofer and comes with wire harness and connector. You need to get screws at the hardware store. God bless German engineering. The speakers are tapped for 5mm metric screws, and everything fits together perfectly. Should I be surprised?

There are great FAQ’s at www.bmwtips.com on how to remove the rear deck and how to install the subwoofer. Thanks to Chris Totten for the step by step instructions - they are perfect – I followed them to the letter and they were exactly correct. Now, I must say, after removing the stock subwoofer, I admit I was tempted to try to screw the new subs in from the trunk side, as opposed to removing the back seat and rear deck. Take my advice – the latter is the only way to do it right. It is intimidating thinking of tearing up your $72,000 car but if you follow the directions, it is pretty easy and it came back together perfectly. I am pretty sure that screwing in the subs from the top of the rear deck - right to the sheet metal, is the only way to get a good air seal.

Take your time – allocate about 3.5 hours for the removal of the stock sub, the rear seats, and the rear deck and 1.5 hours for the the installation of the speakers and the wiring.

Note, I DID NOT cut larger holes in the sheet metal under the rear deck. My car was already pre-drilled to accept the new subs, and there was a template for cutting out the 10” hole. If you choose not to enlarge the hole, you end up having a 4” diameter hole (from the stock sub) over the new sub. I believe this might make a difference in the volume of air the speakers would move, but as I said, I am thrilled with the result, and I did not take a hack saw to my car. The thought of that was... well, let's just say, there are limits to my confidence...

There are no vibrations or rattles after the install, that I can detect thus far.

Now, I can give one piece of information that to my knowledge was heretofore undisclosed. The wiring pin-outs for the subs. Your connector that plugs into the standard 2000 M5 subwoofer is NOT compatible with the connectors that come on the new subs. So, I took everything apart and figured it out. In the end, I cut off the connectors and spliced the eight wires. My learning in this process, I pass on to any of you. Here it is:

The 12 pin female connector that plugs into the stock sub has pin-outs (the numbers are on the connector) as follows:

Pin 1 – not used
Pin 2 – blue with white stripe – (S1 +) – connects to positive blue/black wire on new L sub
Pin 3 – blue with brown stripe – (S1 -) – connects to negative blue/brown wire on new L sub
Pin 4 – yellow with black stripe – (S2 +) – connects to positive blue/black wire on new R sub
Pin 5 – yellow with grey stripe – (S2 -) – connects to negative blue/brown wire on new R sub
Pin 6 – not used
Pin 7 – not used
Pin 8 – yellow with red stripe – (S3 +) – connects to positive yellow/black wire on new L sub
Pin 9 – grey with brown stripe – (S3 -) – connects to negative yellow/brown wire on new L sub
Pin 10 – yellow with white stripe – (S4 +) – connects to positive yellow/black wire on new R sub
Pin 11 – yellow with brown stripe – (S4 -) –– connects to negative yellow/brown wire on new R sub
Pin 12 – not used

This set-up tests out to be in-phase and works well. I can’t speak for other E39’s but I read on the board once, that you can do the same thing with any E39 that has the DSP sound system. Not sure if those would be all pre-drilled like my August 2000 M5 was (which really made the job easier) but subject to confirming the parts will fit, you might want to give it a try.

Again, in summary, I highly recommend this modification. The value per dollar spent is in my opinion quite high, and the install, while taking a bit of time, is really simple if you follow directions.

Good Luck and PM me if you have other questions.

Mofo

Noka · 15th June 2002, 22:35

This is great info - thanks. Before purchasing the subs, did you investigate any plug-n-play speakers that would be an exact fit replacement for the stock subs allowing to keep the Nokia box? I think the carpeted box looks neater and offers more room in the trunk for taller items, etc. Just wondering, but I may go the route you did.

Rgds,
Norm

mofo_knows · 15th June 2002, 22:49

I did some limited research on alternatives. You might find your options are limited, because many speakers are not compatible with the DSP radio. At least, that's what some manufacturers told me. I think, they would rather be safe than sorry, so I am not sure how much of that was conservatism vs. reality.

I doubt that just putting different 5" drivers in the Nokia box would make the sort of dramatic difference that moving to 10" free air subs did. But you could try that as well. Keep in mind, the speakers have dual voice coils, so make sure you take that into account.

In regards to space, the cubic feet available may actually increase with the M Audio upgrade, because the Nokia carpeted box "squares off" a large amount of space, whereas the 10" subs only protrude in 2 relatively small cylinders.

But, space (like sound) is a personal preference thing. Luggage space is not why I bought an M5. I have a Suburban with a Thule roof box if I have to haul stuff!

If you come up with a way to retrofit the Nokia box, let us know. That might be a nice (and probably easier) alternative

Mofo

Cerberus · 16th June 2002, 00:12

Mofo,

Thanks for posting your experience of adding the M-audio subs to your 2000 M5. I have been thinking about doing this retrofit for quite some time now and your post has pushed me off the fence. I just hope that my early production 2000 has the 3 predrilled holes for the 10" subwoofers.

Do you feel that the factory amp is sufficient to power the 10s to their potential? Do you know if the output is the same for the sub output between the standard and M-audio amp?

Thanks again for sharing.

Sandy

mofo_knows · 16th June 2002, 06:32

I am not sure if the "enhanced M Audio upgrade" is any thing more than different speakers. I do remember reading, that other speaker(s) are different if you select that option. Don't know about the amp. Maybe there is something in the archives?

Regarding whether the 2000 M5 stock amp can handle the subs, I actually think it works better. As I said in my review, after I installed the subs and EQ'd the system with the DSP Equalizer, I turned the bass down quite a bit.

Now, I am not an electrical engineer but I think that the lower frequency register takes more amplifier power than the upper. This is why when you biamp, you put more power to the bass.
In this (non-biamped) system, if you turn down the power output to the lower frequencies, at the same volume level, I would think this would leave you more headroom overall.

Take my scientific explanation with a big grain of salt. I are a Mechanical Engineer, I am sure some I am sure some zipperhead will set us both straight on the facts on this issue. My subjective experience was, before the upgrade, at a certain (still bearable) volume level, I could hear audible distortion and the bass got muddy. After the upgrade, I can get to "ears bleeding" before I detect clipping or distortion. The bass is just much clearer.

Hope that helps. I am still pretty high on it. I actually volunteered to go to Blockbuster just to hear Metallica Black album (great drum sound) with the new set up.

Mofo

Bluewater M5 · 16th June 2002, 20:56

Norm, I am with you. I would love to have big bass but do not want to compromise the space that the free air subs take. I bought some Focal 5.25 subs. Unfortunately the magnets were too big. So I will have to get a box made for them. Also when I connected them the factory amp was really able to push them. I will keep you updated when I get everything done.

Noka · 16th June 2002, 21:20

Wongster12: Yes please keep us updated. I also thought it would be far easier to just drop the Nokia box and replace speakers, then taking the entire interior apart to screw the M-audio subs in from the top. But I probably will not find some plug-n-play solution. That would just be too easy.

Rgds,
Norm

Bluewater M5 · 17th June 2002, 07:54

Norm. The concensus I got after speaking to several car shops is that the factory amp doesnt put out enough juice, so you have to get a separate amp.

Noka · 18th June 2002, 03:01

Quote:

"... concensus ... is that the factory amp doesnt put out enough juice ..."

Not surprising they would say that so they can sell more. My understanding is that several people have successfully installed the M-audio subs with existing DSP amp with good results. If I'm not mistaken, the DSP amp is the same regardless of whether one has the M-audio option or not. The only difference is the subs and some midrange speakers up front I believe. If true, then the standard amp should be able to supply enough power.

Rgds,
Norm

mofo_knows · 18th June 2002, 21:09

I didn't have a sound meter handy but I can tell you, from playing the drums for 24 years, that my definition of "Loud" is when it hurts, and that correlates to sound pressure levels in the 110 to 120db range.

And, I can confirm, I got the system up to that point, after the mod, and I couldn't hear any audible distortion or clipping on songs with dynamic range - "limelight" by rush and others that are just plain slamming like "bulls on parade" by RATM and "46 and 2" by Tool. I guess can't imagine needing more power than the stock stereo. I may be (am) a lunkhead but if there is enough headroom that you don't clip or distort at a volume level that hurts your ears, what more do you need? I know, I am about to get flamed, but I have never been able to figure out that whole 10,000 watts in my car and my thumping will create a readout on the seismic charts in the next time zone, anyhow.

Mofo