Since we don't have our own motor mount DIY, I figured I should add one. My car has 105k miles and the difference in new mounts was noticeable. I had some vibration issues prior to this work, and now those are almost completely gone. I would highly recommend replacing motor mounts at the 100k mark. It took a couple hours, but I'm slow and I was taking pictures.
As always, DIY at your own risk.
Primary tools:
-13mm socket (3/8")
-16mm socket (3/8")
-13mm socket (1/4")
-18" or so of 3/8" extensions
-3/8" torque wrench
-Philips screwdriver
-Jack
-Two jack stands
-loctite
Parts:
LEFT RUBBER MOUNTING WITH FLANGE 22111092895 $92.13
RIGHT RUBBER MOUNTING WITH FLANGE 22111092896 $92.13
Part #15 below:
-Jack up front of car and place on jack stands
-Remove front undertray with philips screwdriver
Right side mount:
Left side mount:
-Loosen and remove two 13 mm nuts from the bottom of each mount (I used 1/2" drive with breaker bar).
-Loosen and remove 16mm nut from the top of each mount. I used a bunch of extension on my 3/8" drive wrench to reach:
Right side:
After loosening the nut, I rolled under the car and grabbed it from below. I found it easier than using a magnetic pick-up tool to reach it from the top.
The space on the left side is really tight. I put the socket, u-joint, and short extension on from under the car. Then from above I inserted the rest of the wrench. I thought this was easier than shoving it in from above, but it may be tight either way.
-Next, I undid my air intakes to give clearance when lifting the engine. I have Dinan aftermarket ones so I don't know the necessity of that step for standard air intakes.
-Using a piece or two of wood to distribute the weight, jack up the engine from the oil pan. Do this slowly. I did not have to spin off my fan but some may find that easier.
-You can now remove and replace the mounts. The right side should come out first, then jack the engine a little higher to get at the left.
-On the left side, I found it helpful to back out this screw to give me a little more room to work. Make sure to tighten it back up when finished.
-I found it easiest to tip the mount towards the back of the car when removing and inserting. Pictures below show installation but removal would be opposite.
The upper mounting stud goes through the forward mounting hole on the engine support:
-After both mounts are in (but before engine is lowered) put loctite on the upper threads.
-Slowly lower the engine, taking care to line up the studs with the correct mounting holes.
-Once it is lowered, add loctite to the lower studs and install all of the nuts. On the upper studs I placed the nut on from below and then tightened from above (like removal pictures above).
-Tighten lower 13mm nuts to 22nm and the upper 16mm nuts to 47nm.
-Install the lower undertray, lower the car, re-attach intakes and you are done. Go for a drive to feel a nice smooth engine!
The old mounts were not visibly cracked, but the difference in driving feel was still noticeable. Here is an original mount compared to the new one:
As always, DIY at your own risk.
Primary tools:
-13mm socket (3/8")
-16mm socket (3/8")
-13mm socket (1/4")
-18" or so of 3/8" extensions
-3/8" torque wrench
-Philips screwdriver
-Jack
-Two jack stands
-loctite
Parts:
LEFT RUBBER MOUNTING WITH FLANGE 22111092895 $92.13
RIGHT RUBBER MOUNTING WITH FLANGE 22111092896 $92.13
Part #15 below:
-Jack up front of car and place on jack stands
-Remove front undertray with philips screwdriver
Right side mount:
Left side mount:
-Loosen and remove two 13 mm nuts from the bottom of each mount (I used 1/2" drive with breaker bar).
-Loosen and remove 16mm nut from the top of each mount. I used a bunch of extension on my 3/8" drive wrench to reach:
Right side:
After loosening the nut, I rolled under the car and grabbed it from below. I found it easier than using a magnetic pick-up tool to reach it from the top.
The space on the left side is really tight. I put the socket, u-joint, and short extension on from under the car. Then from above I inserted the rest of the wrench. I thought this was easier than shoving it in from above, but it may be tight either way.
-Next, I undid my air intakes to give clearance when lifting the engine. I have Dinan aftermarket ones so I don't know the necessity of that step for standard air intakes.
-Using a piece or two of wood to distribute the weight, jack up the engine from the oil pan. Do this slowly. I did not have to spin off my fan but some may find that easier.
-You can now remove and replace the mounts. The right side should come out first, then jack the engine a little higher to get at the left.
-On the left side, I found it helpful to back out this screw to give me a little more room to work. Make sure to tighten it back up when finished.
-I found it easiest to tip the mount towards the back of the car when removing and inserting. Pictures below show installation but removal would be opposite.
The upper mounting stud goes through the forward mounting hole on the engine support:
-After both mounts are in (but before engine is lowered) put loctite on the upper threads.
-Slowly lower the engine, taking care to line up the studs with the correct mounting holes.
-Once it is lowered, add loctite to the lower studs and install all of the nuts. On the upper studs I placed the nut on from below and then tightened from above (like removal pictures above).
-Tighten lower 13mm nuts to 22nm and the upper 16mm nuts to 47nm.
-Install the lower undertray, lower the car, re-attach intakes and you are done. Go for a drive to feel a nice smooth engine!
The old mounts were not visibly cracked, but the difference in driving feel was still noticeable. Here is an original mount compared to the new one: