I'll chime in with my opinion that this does lead to some minor droning around 2000-2200 RPM... which translates to 70mph in 6th gear on the freeway. It's not a bad drone, but definitely noticeable if you hang around that RPM range (which I now avoid). I'll probably put the stock cans back on soon.
Thanks to everyone for posting their stories, videos, pictures, etc. I am def. doing this in the next week or two.
I am having an issue with the following though:
I see many people paid $200 or less for the labor. Those who paid more seems to have had the jobs done at performance shops vs muffler/welding shops.
I found two performance shops that quoted me $300 and $350. But I am sure I can probably go to a local muffler shop and have it done for half the price.
Any suggestions on if its worth the extra $ to have a performance shop do it vs a muffler shop for a cheaper price? I would of course take reputability into account when picking a place, but if I can get it done for half the price with same/similar results, I would probably do it.
Thanks to everyone for posting their stories, videos, pictures, etc. I am def. doing this in the next week or two.
I am having an issue with the following though:
I see many people paid $200 or less for the labor. Those who paid more seems to have had the jobs done at performance shops vs muffler/welding shops.
I found two performance shops that quoted me $300 and $350. But I am sure I can probably go to a local muffler shop and have it done for half the price.
Any suggestions on if its worth the extra $ to have a performance shop do it vs a muffler shop for a cheaper price? I would of course take reputability into account when picking a place, but if I can get it done for half the price with same/similar results, I would probably do it.
Just depends on the bends one shop can make vs. the other. I believe mandrel is the way to go, make sure its not crush bent. correct me if I'm wrong boys..
I've seen worse horrors than simple crush bends. Pipes with smaller OD welded inside a larger pipe, hangers welded to seat belt bolts, etc. Try to look at some examples of their work. You could also be specific, "I want mandrel bends butt welded and hangers connecting to stock OEM brackets". You'll find that they suddenly raise their prices when you ask for good work.
I'll chime in with my opinion that this does lead to some minor droning around 2000-2200 RPM... which translates to 70mph in 6th gear on the freeway. It's not a bad drone, but definitely noticeable if you hang around that RPM range (which I now avoid). I'll probably put the stock cans back on soon.
Definitely drone around 2000-2200 RPMs. Does anybody know why this is? Does the exhaust tone 'resonate' inside the resonators at this frequency?
This RPM range is generally avoided when driving around in the city for me anyway, but I really didn't consider it on the highway. Hope this doesn't bother me too much...cuz I will admit the drone is fairly annoying when present.
If I didn't love the sound when shifting so darn much I might put stock cans back on.
Definitely drone around 2000-2200 RPMs. Does anybody know why this is? Does the exhaust tone 'resonate' inside the resonators at this frequency?
This RPM range is generally avoided when driving around in the city for me anyway, but I really didn't consider it on the highway. Hope this doesn't bother me too much...cuz I will admit the drone is fairly annoying when present.
If I didn't love the sound when shifting so darn much I might put stock cans back on.
I posted videos of my car on the highway. No drone! Not sure why some people are having the issue......
Mandel bending is pointless for a muffler delete imo.
It's pointless for most street exhausts, but there are two different kinds of crush bends. One will make a convoluted mess out of the inside radius which can reduce cross-section to as little as half the original diameter and does change the exhaust tone a bit. A muffler delete on our cars shouldn't require bends so tight that it crushes the insides anyway.
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