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9th April 2002, 17:17
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#1 (permalink)
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Front Brake inner Cooling Ducts & TRACK CAM. Installed
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Sports/Navi/PDC/E-Shades/Premium Sound/BMW MKIII NAV-TV Kit +Reverse Camera System, Head rest M power patches,rear wing, Motorola GSM v8088 with BMW software
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Last edited by M5@ksa; 10th April 2002 at 01:12.
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9th April 2002, 17:23
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#2 (permalink)
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I can't really see the track cam that clearly.. where is it mounted?
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9th April 2002, 17:39
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#3 (permalink)
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M5 Extraordinare!
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It looks like he mounted it at the base of his front windshield. Am I right?
P.S. It looks like this is my 3000th post!
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9th April 2002, 18:17
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#4 (permalink)
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M5 Expert (>4000)
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M5@ksa -
Track cam install is very cool. I'd like to hook up some auxiliary tiny cams to my digital-8 camera, but i don't think it has a video-in. What are you using as a recorder?
Also - the brake duct install is "cute" - I assume you actually hooked up the ducts and opened the front up?
Unfortunately, that sink drain outlet is WAY too restrictive and will dramatically reduce the airflow - more or less negatinhg any benefit. Don't forget that well is open to the air and the flow in there is turbulent already - so you'll need a strong stream of air. My advice is - open it up, all the way:
for any newbies who aren't familiar with the mod, here's one site that documents it (and there are others):
M5 Brake Duct Install
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9th April 2002, 18:17
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#5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by atomic80
It looks like he mounted it at the base of his front windshield. Am I right? 
P.S. It looks like this is my 3000th post!
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 thats true atomic80
i used the remote door opener place at the top part where the sun roof parts are to install the wireless sender . i wierd it with the 2 small orange culor lights , so when i switch the head lights on the camera is powerd . and i used the DVD (nav tv) extra vedio IN and 12 V to run the reciever located in the reare armset toghther with the DVD player.
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Sports/Navi/PDC/E-Shades/Premium Sound/BMW MKIII NAV-TV Kit +Reverse Camera System, Head rest M power patches,rear wing, Motorola GSM v8088 with BMW software
Dinan Free Flow Exhaust , Dinan Final Drive Gearing, Dinan Cold Air Intake, Dinan Tower Braces, Kelleners ECU-tuning, KW Variant 2 Coilovers, G-POWER clutch,G-POWER antiroll bar kit, look alike Nowak Air Ducts, UCC short shifter, Clutch Stoper
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10th April 2002, 03:45
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#6 (permalink)
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m5board.comoholic (>1000 posts)
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Great ideas on the track cam!
A few questions about the track camera ...
What camera did you use? What resolution?
You say it is wireless. What kind of video quality are you getting? Can you post some sample video?
Since the windsheild is tinted directly in front of the camera, isn't that making the video have a blue tint?
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10th April 2002, 05:05
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#7 (permalink)
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Tell me about the clutch stop
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10th April 2002, 05:34
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#8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by CM5GO
Tell me about the clutch stop
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If you look under your clutch you'll see a little black plastic circular piece. This prevents you from pushing the clutch in too far. Apparently this is also past the engagment point. This is where the aftermarket clutch stoppers come into play. Some have used parts from the local Home Depot to make a clutch stop themselves. Others have bought theirs from places like UUC Motorwerks.
This explains things better:
What's a Clutch Stop?
In a car with a manual transmission, the clutch pedal usually has a lot of travel. One reason for the large pedal travel range is to allow novice manual transmission drivers learn the foot-foot coordination between the clutch pedal and gas pedal. Learning the engagement point takes time, experience, and a little skill.
When a clutch pedal is depressed, it releases (or disengages) the pressure plate from the clutch assembly, allowing for gear changes. Timing is critical since not enough throttle when the clutch engages can cause the car to "bog" (or stall) and too much throttle can actually start to damage the clutch if not fully engaged. The illustration shows the start and ending point of a clutch pedal as it is being depressed.
There is a point when the clutch pedal is being released where the clutch will engage. This is the point where applying the throttle is ideal. After many, many gear shifts, it becomes easier and easier with experience to "catch" this engagement point. However, when people drive cars with different clutch engagement points, it's very easy to stall the car initially. Keen drivers will quickly adapt to the new engagement point and remember it.
As a driving style becomes more "spirited", the hand-foot-foot coordination must become more intense as gear lever change frequency increases as does the rate at which the clutch pedal and gas pedal are depressed. If one were to get overly excited, a gear could be missed because of a miss-timed clutch engagement (also known as "blowing a shift").
The advent of an adjustable clutch stop lets the driver specifically set the ideal point of reference where the clutch pedal stops just after the clutch mechanism disengages. Therefore, once set properly, the gas pedal may be applied immediately after the clutch pedal is released.
This lets the driver shift with one less item to worry about, actually forcing them to become smoother. The clutch stop works on all BMWs (except the new E46 models). Additional benefit is gained when pairing the clutch stop with a
UUC Motorwerks Ultimate Short Shifter!
Thanks to UUC Motorwerks for the detailed explanation + graphics.
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Jason
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'05 Range Rover w/mods
'05 K1200S w/mods
'07 997TT w/mods
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