I'm attempting to do this today. So far, I had to also bend a bracket to get to the bolt and I had the luck to have the height adjustment on the seatbelt side fail, so I can't remove the seatbelt bolt.
My question is what are the torque settings for the seat bolts? When I took them out, they were definitely on super tight. I don't think it was the loctite that I was up against.
I'm probably going to try two other styles of fix.
1. use a torch to pull the cable while leaving the metal tip installer.
2. cut the middle of the sheathe, remove piece, then tape it together.
Barring that, I'm probably just going to leave the height adjustment unfixed, since getting to that one looks like it will be too painful.
It was the seat recline that was painful to live with.
Thanks for all the pioneers that provide me with all the DIY information. Saves me a lot of time.
I'm attempting to do this today. So far, I had to also bend a bracket to get to the bolt and I had the luck to have the height adjustment on the seatbelt side fail, so I can't remove the seatbelt bolt.
TIS has the seat to floor plate bolt torque as 42nm.
Can you access the failed cable with the seat in the car? If so, pull the cable and use a power drill to spin it until you have enough clearance to take out the seatbelt bolt.
TIS has the seat to floor plate bolt torque as 42nm.
Can you access the failed cable with the seat in the car? If so, pull the cable and use a power drill to spin it until you have enough clearance to take out the seatbelt bolt.
Thanks for the spec.
As for the height cable, I might be able to access it.
I'm just a bit leary about using the butane torch that close to the seat to soften the cable enough to pull it out.
As it stands, the recline has been restored, so that's good enough for Thanksgiving traveling.
When I initially tried to fix my seat twist I attempted to do the whole job with the seat in the car. This went poorly due to the lack of clearance, light, and leverage. However, I did manage to get the cable out of its socket quite easily by using a butane stick lighter to heat up the cable socket. The flame on the lighter was very short, and I stuck a few layers of aluminum foil behind it to act as a heat shield. It worked fine. Just tossing it out as an option for the next time you take a look at it. I know how annoying the seat twist thing is, it happened on both of my seats within the last year.
Wow, what a life saver! Great DIY. I did the "Slice in the middle" technique. My first impression was the cable was like a speedo, rotating core, steel casing, rubber insulator. It was a little confusing on how to cut trough the casing. No worries tho, the casing is solid rubber!
My bad cable was the left side recline, unreachable with the seat in the car. Shoot, as i write this, i realize that to access the cable, I had to unhook some of the leather, and forgot to re-hook it, oh well, back to the seats.
Thank you so much for this great DIY article. I have stumbled upon & read past this thread tons of times. I never really knew what it was about/referring to until tonight while I was vacuuming my car. I think my drivers seat has this same issue & now I need to fix it... !
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