OK, so using cluster test #7, position 11 on the temp gauge equates to 76-77 C, and totally vertical equates to 84-85 C. This was on a 50 F day with only a few traffic light stops.
So that's the range my car is fluctuating between. Any issues with that?
__________________ FULL SCALE HOBBIES:
Fern Green 99 M3, Stamped LTWs, Conforti Software and CAI, Dinan Exhaust, OE Hellas and a few other nice touches. MRegistry listing here.
Le Mans 2002 M5, Black/Titanium, Rogue SSK, Dinan exhaust, PSS9 coilovers, a few other nice items. MRegistry listing here.
If your stat is working, once the reading has gone past 79 degrees on the secret menu it shouldn't ever drop much below that (maybe 78, but only briefly). When the coolant drops below 79, the thermostat should be fully shut and the engine should warm it back up relatively quickly. If you're seeing mid-70s repeatedly, more than likely you have a bad (or going bad) thermostat.
I happened to be out today and watched my engine temps via OBC. 49-50F outside temps. My car toggled between 78-79C the entire time on the highway as 60+ MPH. Drove about 16 miles directly on the highway, engine never went over 79C. This is on a 1 year old stat and temp sender. Temp gauge is at about 11 o'clock position.
Once I pulled off highway into a few stops, temp made it to 82C. Might have gone up more if I was really in stop and go traffic, but I only went a few miles after the highway run.
Appreciate replies, but a confirmation. Lothar, you are saying that if my temp drops, then stat may be going bad. jfoj, you seem to be saying I'm running too hot.
Anything from 79 to upwards of 100 degrees C is fine (I haven't seen a confirmed upward limit on the board anywhere). My car runs up to 96 degrees C when the outside temp is 105 degrees F and I'm climbing into the hills with the A/C on. The needle stays dead center.
Anything below 79 consistently and the thermostat is likely not closing all the way and the engine can't maintain the temp of the coolant. This can lead to the car running rich (the computer thinks the engine isn't fully warm) and will eventually damage your cats. It should probably be changed sooner than later.
Edgy, Not sure if your car is running "hot", but it appears to be running a bit higher in temp than mine today and we are in the same area. Could be you were in "real" stop and go traffic, I only had a few traffic lights after I pulled of the highway.
BUT, this being said, there are some common issues on these cars were they can get leaves and debris between the AC condensing coil and radiator causing them to run a bit warmer than most.
As for your lower temps, they should pull just up to 77-78C and then peak to 79C, at least may car does not stay pegged at 79C, it toggles between 78-79C. Note the difference between 78 and 79 C is only 1.8 F, so its a very minor change, factor in rounding, it would be in the 2.5 F area? Temps will rise on 50F days in traffic, but I would probably need to drive over 1 hour at highway temps for the coolant to stay at 79 or 80C?? This would be more to the oil temps creeping up more than anything.
Not sure how much you drive in to and from work, but on a day like today, around 50F, you probably need to drive at least 5-7+ miles before the oil is even close to getting near 79C. I find the engine temp cannot really stabilize until the oil temp is up close to 80C.
Usually the oil takes 2-3 times longer to getup to temp as compared to the coolant.
As for my top temps, this summer @ 106 F outside temps at 80 MPH (with AC on of course!), my oil temp was not even a needle beyond center (210 F) maybe 212 F?? and I believe the tops my coolant temp hit was 96C.
My simple test was wet/oily tail pipes and a really dirty rear bumper and license plate, tiny black suet on the rear of the car, if you have that, probably time for a stat change. Once the temps drop to 40 F or below, a questionable stat should no longer be questionable from my experience. At 30-40F you will have no question in your mind about a bad stat, it becomes far more obvious in these temps. Oil temps will also take a LONG time to get even to the first dot as I recall?
My new(ish) thermostat is getting around 76-77 degrees C in highway cruising.
Stop and Go city traffic will be mid 80's and mid to high 90's with A/C on and ambient temps >20C.
I think mine is a bit on the low side - but it hasn't affected fuel economy.
What I noticed - 94 - 96 C is dead centre on the analogue gauge
Just to the right of the first dot is around 76C.
Not sure about the right dot - I think somewhere above 106C.
Not sure where the RED begins - but I think greater than 109-110C
Is teflon tape required on the male threads for the sensor that goes on top of the thermostat housing or the metal washer that comes with it does the job?
Is teflon tape required on the male threads for the sensor that goes on top of the thermostat housing or the metal washer that comes with it does the job?
No, the sensor should come with an aluminum washer, which crushes to seal the opening when torqued.
__________________
e60 ssk, zhp knob, brake ducts, ate super gold, ate brake shoes, pagid yellow rs19, pagid blue, titanium backing plates, dinan rsb, mk4 gps, vxx ae, brushed aluminum trim swap, gp2, bell sa2010, sparco tornado, sparco speed+ racing, 3mm front spacers, turner 32mm bolts, x5 thrust arm bushings, OE 9.5" squared 275/35/18 dunlop direzza zii, OE staggered 245/40-275/35/18 direzza z1 star spec, staggered style 66 on 235-245/45/17 blizzak ws70, pentosin mtf2, liqui moly 10w60, mobil1 0w40, ground control camber plates, bilstein b8 monotube dampers, intrax of holland racing springs*tbi
**********************
dynojet 319ft-lb, 341whp, 13.51@104.3 englishtown, lime rock 1'09.9", lightning 1'23.420", thunderbolt 1'44.2", watkins glen *tbd, secret menu maf test, 138+ 2nd gear
**********************
Favorite Quote: "Understeer is when you hit the wall with your front end. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with your back end. Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall. Torque is how far you move the wall when you hit it. "