advice on draining coolant for stat change. - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
jamiepeers
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advice on draining coolant for stat change.

Guys i 'll be taking on a stat change in the next couple of days and have looked through a few threads with nothing really conclusive.

As i understand it i only need to drain the rad.

Is it just a case of taking the rad bottom hose out and catching in a bucket, or is there a certain method??

Also when refilling whats the correct procedure for getting any air out of the system?

I know on my e36 its generally a PITA to bleed them properly. Is there a certain procdure on the M5??


Thanks

Jamie
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post #2 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 01:36 PM
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Hiya,

I think this came up recently.

There was talk of 2 drain plugs on the block too !

I think its pretty straightforward in terms of refilling and bleeding, iirc.

Good Luck

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post #3 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 02:18 PM
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Hi Jamie,

Ive done this recently - not hard you just need 2 buckets (or more) and a flexible head to your ratchet.

Get yourself 2x crush washers (number 16 here) http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3.../engine_block/

Make sure the water is cold before you do this.

1) Put the car on ramps



2) Open the cap to the coolant reservoir and put it in a safe place.

3) Remove the central and front belly pans

4) With a pair of pliers turn the blue radiator pulg 90 degrees and wiggle it out - about 2L will come out so have your bucket ready.



5) The coolant drain plugs are near the back of the engine and with your car at a slight angle it will help it all flow out

Mine had a dab of yellow/blue paint on them to identify them



Get your ratchet - sorry dont remember the nut size and attach your flexible extension and take it out - about 2L will come out each - fast - it goes EVERYWHERE as it splashes over the suspension.



On the UK drivers side there is a little heat shield to remove. Its very easy - its only held on with 3x bolts. Just watch your eyes as a lot of clag drops down from it when you remove it.



IfI poured fresh coolant into the resouvior it came straight out the drain bolts to confirm all was out.

6) Clean all the threads, replace the crush washers + plugs and refil with coolant. Run the engine with the coolant cap on and rev to 2.5k RPM 5 times (these are BMW's instructions). Turn off and check the level and top up.

I found that my level only dropped with a decent drive and needed 1/2 inch of distilled water.


Check you have no leaks (ahhhh my nightmares return!) and put the belly pans back on. You are then good for 3 years.

Neil

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Last edited by Neil.D; 20th January 2010 at 02:19 PM.
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post #4 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 03:55 PM
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Yo Raikku ! ^^^^ You have some competition my friend !!

Well done Neil !!

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post #5 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5 London View Post
Yo Raikku ! ^^^^ You have some competition my friend !!

Well done Neil !!
Neil has done it 6 times or so though from what I've read!
Believe you've finally solved leak?
Put me off doing mine, but guess some go smoother than others, luck of the draw maybe
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post #6 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 04:26 PM
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Yo mates,no competition
To be really sure it bleeds completely turn the heater full hot,blower full power and let her run with noww and then reving up to 2500-3500rpm fully warm.BMW procedure sucks,might be still air in the system after that(ask me how I know)

This way it works fast and guaranteed on every S62

Agreed on the E36,bloody M3 took me an hour to bleed it until the air was out!
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post #7 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 04:55 PM
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Unless you need to drain and replace the coolant anyway, there is no need to drain the system for a thermostat change. Get a hand pump and siphon coolant out of the expansion tank. Get the coolant level just below where the thermostat is. Hardly any coolant will then leak out when you disconnect the hoses and take the thermostat housing out. I did a coolant flush a month before my t-stat went bad so I did not want to replace it again. Again, if your coolant is fairly new, THERE IS NO NEED TO DRAIN THE ENTIRE SYSTEM.

If you do need to drain it, you need to unscrew the two block drains and the bottom of the radiator. The bleed procedure is to fill the system, tighten the cap, start car, turn heater to the lowest speed and let the engine warm up. Check level and add if needed, once car cools down.

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Last edited by NogginM5Beast; 20th January 2010 at 04:58 PM.
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post #8 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5 London View Post
Yo Raikku ! ^^^^ You have some competition my friend !!

Well done Neil !!

Competition? I dont think so but nice of you to say! What is it they say? No competition - not even the same sport!

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post #9 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vantaam5 View Post
Yo mates,no competition
To be really sure it bleeds completely turn the heater full hot,blower full power and let her run with noww and then reving up to 2500-3500rpm fully warm.BMW procedure sucks,might be still air in the system after that(ask me how I know)

This way it works fast and guaranteed on every S62

Agreed on the E36,bloody M3 took me an hour to bleed it until the air was out!

You see I knew I'd forget something!

Yep get that fan going as you rev her up!

2000 M5 Titanium silver

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post #10 of 26 Old 20th January 2010, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil.D View Post
Competition? I dont think so but nice of you to say! What is it they say? No competition - not even the same sport!
There should be no competition under brothers!

The only competition going on is between Kumaran and me who replaces more useless items on the cars....

Am off to change now all fuses and relays...
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