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Propshaft center bearing DIY with pics

127K views 92 replies 41 participants last post by  Sailor24 
#1 ·
Remove plastic undertray for gearbox.
Disconnect O2-sensors(mark them before removal) and disconnect EGT(exhaust gas temperature sensor) if fitted.
If the car has a one piece stock system,the whole exhaust system has to be removed.
Remove the heat shield for the propshaft.



Remove the nuts(16mm socket) on the Diff flange (replace with new ones tightening torque 70NM),mark the joint to the flange and pull the joint loose on the flange...




Mark the guibo and remove the three bolts(21mm socket) of the propshaft flange(new bolts and nuts,tightening torque 140NM)






Remove the nuts(13mm,tightening torque 21NM) of the center bearing while holding it in place.


Lower the propshaft on the center bearing,pull it out from the guibo,then from the diff.Do not let the velocity joint go in a too extreme angle to the propshaft,it could be damaged.



Mark the positions of both propshaft parts to each other.



Remove the bolt in the cross joint that holds both parts together(tighening torque 97 NM,use Loctite high strengh for assembly)
Pull the halves apart.Remove the shim infront of the center bearing.
Use claw puller or similar tool to remove center bearing.



Clean surfaces,new bearing slips in by itself.Don't forget shim when assembling.
For the new center bearing the Terostat sealant against vibrations on the chassis should be ordered( see parts catalouge).



Assemble everything,time for a beer....:)
 
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#18 · (Edited)
I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to bring it back to light to ask something similiar.
Marking the lines ensures that you match the splines, and this is simply so you do not have to re-balance the shaft, correct?

I'm planing on replacing the universal joint (guibo) should I have a go with the center bearing as well?
 
#16 ·
any update on the velocity joint or front bearing DIY. thanks
 
#22 ·
Good writeup!
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#23 ·
Vantaam5, is there a gasket or a seal that goes between the driveshaft and the diff flange? I looked on realoem and wasn't able to find one.

I'm going to replace my driveshaft soon and this post has helped me a lot in planning for the replacement. I just want to make sure I have all the replacement parts I need before I start the process.

New nuts/bolts
Butyl cord Terostat 2460
Gasket/seal for driveshaft to diff?

Thanks for the great DIY!

Dom
 
#24 ·
I'll chime in. Part number (I think) is: 26-11-1-229-504.

It might not be required if the old one isn't trashed, but mine was in bits. I also changed the guibo and centering bushing (at the guibo end of the driveshaft) while I was at it, because I NEVER want to do this again. The old guibo looked fine, but the car transmits power smoother now, as in "no lurching between 1-2 shifts, idling along in 1st gear while the car is cold," etc. I was only going to do the CSB, but a few hundred in extra parts was not a big deal in comparison to the labour and not wanting to put anything back on the car that might be remotely marginal.

Cheers,
Jeff
 
#26 ·
I'll chime in. Part number (I think) is: 26-11-1-229-504.

It might not be required if the old one isn't trashed, but mine was in bits. I also changed the guibo and centering bushing (at the guibo end of the driveshaft) while I was at it, because I NEVER want to do this again. The old guibo looked fine, but the car transmits power smoother now, as in "no lurching between 1-2 shifts, idling along in 1st gear while the car is cold," etc. I was only going to do the CSB, but a few hundred in extra parts was not a big deal in comparison to the labour and not wanting to put anything back on the car that might be remotely marginal.

Cheers,
Jeff
Can you give some info on changing the centering bushing. I bought it to change it also when I do the center bearing, and flex disk. Is it pressed in? how did you remove it. thanks
 
#29 · (Edited)
My center bearing has some form of tar applied to the top of it, between the center bearing and the body of car itself.
I don't see that on yours. Is that normal, if so any ideas what type of tar it is?

Also I have an issue with center bearing bolt (No. 12 / Part no. 07119911694) on the illustration.
What is the best way to remove it?
I could not get it to move as one of the last things I tried today.

What is the failure rate of part #16 (Constant-velocity joint wth knurled bush / Part no. 26111229099). This one looks like it has the rubber boot torn and in general there seems to be limited information on this part. Any advice on service or service issues on this part is appreciated :) :)

 
#33 ·
pinion nut torque

No, I am refering to the pinion shaft to nut position.I lost my head did not mark nut to shaft before removal of pinion nut to replace rearend input seal.The shaft has a "+" and "2" ,the nut has an "m" scribed into it.Should I USE these marks or a torque value? Thanks for replying!
 
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