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Old 2nd July 2010, 11:09   #21
StreetDragster
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You need item 9 aswell as item 7. Item 9 is the sound deadening strip that was installed/retrofitted to prevent cars making a whine noise at high speed, i think due to resonance of the centre bearing. Theres a BMW tech sheet about it online somewhere.

Hope That Helps

Thanks

Matt

Last edited by StreetDragster; 2nd July 2010 at 11:11.
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Old 2nd July 2010, 11:15   #22
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Good writeup!




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Old 19th October 2010, 23:24   #23
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Vantaam5, is there a gasket or a seal that goes between the driveshaft and the diff flange? I looked on realoem and wasn't able to find one.

I'm going to replace my driveshaft soon and this post has helped me a lot in planning for the replacement. I just want to make sure I have all the replacement parts I need before I start the process.

New nuts/bolts
Butyl cord Terostat 2460
Gasket/seal for driveshaft to diff?

Thanks for the great DIY!

Dom
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Old 20th October 2010, 02:59   #24
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I'll chime in. Part number (I think) is: 26-11-1-229-504.

It might not be required if the old one isn't trashed, but mine was in bits. I also changed the guibo and centering bushing (at the guibo end of the driveshaft) while I was at it, because I NEVER want to do this again. The old guibo looked fine, but the car transmits power smoother now, as in "no lurching between 1-2 shifts, idling along in 1st gear while the car is cold," etc. I was only going to do the CSB, but a few hundred in extra parts was not a big deal in comparison to the labour and not wanting to put anything back on the car that might be remotely marginal.

Cheers,
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Old 21st October 2010, 01:52   #25
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Thanks bro, I'm gonna make sure I have all the parts before I do the install so I don't have to do it all over again.
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Old 21st October 2010, 02:19   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Resinears View Post
I'll chime in. Part number (I think) is: 26-11-1-229-504.

It might not be required if the old one isn't trashed, but mine was in bits. I also changed the guibo and centering bushing (at the guibo end of the driveshaft) while I was at it, because I NEVER want to do this again. The old guibo looked fine, but the car transmits power smoother now, as in "no lurching between 1-2 shifts, idling along in 1st gear while the car is cold," etc. I was only going to do the CSB, but a few hundred in extra parts was not a big deal in comparison to the labour and not wanting to put anything back on the car that might be remotely marginal.

Cheers,
Jeff
Can you give some info on changing the centering bushing. I bought it to change it also when I do the center bearing, and flex disk. Is it pressed in? how did you remove it. thanks
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Old 21st October 2010, 05:41   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bad540 View Post
Can you give some info on changing the centering bushing. I bought it to change it also when I do the center bearing, and flex disk. Is it pressed in? how did you remove it. thanks
Look at the beginning of this thread for Vantaams DIY. Also, do a google search for more CSB DIY's for e39's, as I found that there was more information which wasn't covered here (unfortunately, I've lost those links). Another thread on this site which was related was started by me "intermittent wewewewewewe..." which turned out to be the CSB.

This is from that thread (I hope that it gives you some insight) This is NOT a 3 hour job the 1st time you do it:

1st off, many thanks to all who've taken the time to post DIY's and information with regards to changing out a CSB (Centre Support Bearing), or other driveshaft related (guibo!) issues. Special thanks to AMP, who took the time to explain the process and do some hand holding throughout the repair. Without Andrew's help and advice, I'm sure the results just wouldn't have been as good, and some of the old parts would have remained on the car.

My problem seems to have absolutely been caused by the CSB bearing, which rattles now that it is out of the car. As per AMPS advice, I replaced the CSB bearing with the terostat (sp?) goop, guibo (and the centering sleeve/bushing), and guibo nuts. Initially, I was just going to do the CSB, but given the extent of disassembly required to get to the CSB, I didn't want to EVER have to do it again, in my garage, on my back.

It seems that the Indy shop that did my clutch probably distorted the guibo while zipping on the nuts from the bolt head end, rather than tightening the nuts with the bolt head held stationary. This in turn twists or loads the guibo, and while the old guibo looked 100% fine, the drivetrain is somehow much smoother, particularly felt in the 1-2 and 2-3 shift. The car is much easier to drive smoothly now, and whatever small amounts of vibration felt during deceleration (which was not intrusive) are gone. My car used to jerk a bit when cold while slowly driving, and that has stopped. I believe the previous guibo installation was "loaded" and the cause, as the old CSB did not drag, but was noisy.

I have a large selection of tools considering that I'm a shade tree mechanic, but found it necessary to cut and modify wrenches to get access to the 18mm bolt that holds the driveshaft halves together, as well as cut the box end of a 21mm wrench off in order to put a snipe on it to facilitate tightening the guibo nuts. A REALLY shallow 16mm socket on a low profile breaker bar (I used a flat bar with 3/8 drive on it for typically doing serpentine belts) is valuable for getting the rear driveshaft CV joint off the diff flange as well. The CV joint to diff flange required a new gasket, as the old one was in pieces in the CV joint grease. Not a big deal, if you're prepared.

I know if (heaven forbid), I need to do this job again, I'll do it in 1/3 of the time, but if you haven't done it before, I'd suggest giving yourself a few days to be safe. You don't want to put it all back together with any suspect parts, and may decide to replace more than you were going to initially - if you're lucky, the parts won't be two days away...

The job is certainly a DIY, but in my opinion, don't do the job yourself to save money (unless your time is worth nothing) - do it yourself to make sure it's done right! Don't skimp on replacing old parts that look fine while you're down there, and realize that removing the driveshaft might expose other issues you'd be foolish to ignore once you get there.

Just a couple more tips:
-Get a buddy to help (I didn't)
-Start in a clean garage (I didn't)
-Next time I do this, I'll take my rear bumper off 1st - it makes the exhaust removal easier for one person without hurting your bumper, and isn't a big deal.
-Take the transmission support off 1st to get at the guibo nuts (I didn't at first)- support the tranny with a jack. I tried to custom bend a wrench to work around the support, and ended up taking it off anyways in order to get the guibo to tranny nuts torqued back on properly.

Try to do this when your better half/kids are going to be away for a few days, (I did!) so you can take your time. Be patient!

Cheers
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Old 21st October 2010, 08:03   #28
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Raikku, they sell the bushing/support pre-assembled. I think you're just showing off now.
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Old 10th December 2010, 12:00   #29
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My center bearing has some form of tar applied to the top of it, between the center bearing and the body of car itself.
I don't see that on yours. Is that normal, if so any ideas what type of tar it is?

Also I have an issue with center bearing bolt (No. 12 / Part no. 07119911694) on the illustration.
What is the best way to remove it?
I could not get it to move as one of the last things I tried today.

What is the failure rate of part #16 (Constant-velocity joint wth knurled bush / Part no. 26111229099). This one looks like it has the rubber boot torn and in general there seems to be limited information on this part. Any advice on service or service issues on this part is appreciated


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Old 10th December 2010, 12:15   #30
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The tar is the Terostat seal,number 9.Mine has it as well,but removed it by pulling it off.

I use a pry bar and block with it the universal joint to open the bolt.
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