These are pics from my beast when I changed the flywheel and rms 2 weeks ago.Also some pics from last weekend's clutch,rms and propshaft refurb of a boardmember's beast...
A car lift is very handy for this one,but it also works on jack stands(as seen in the pics)
First disconnect the battery.Remove both plastic undertrays.
Disconnect the O2 sensors(mark the connectors to plug them right together again).
Remove the exhaust(if you still have the original one piece from the manifolds back,congratulations,you need an extra pair of hands then!).
Also a thing to consider is to cut the exhaust after the resonators and connect it later with suitable clamps again(so at least the mufflers stay in the car).
Remove the heat shields that cover the propshaft.
Mark propshaft position to the diff flange and to the guibo and remove the nuts and bolts(new ones for attachment recommended).Bolts on the guibo 140NM tightening torque.
Remove the nuts from the center bearing of the propshaft and pull the propshaft out.
Disconnect the neutral switch and reverse switch.
Remove the wiring harness from the gear box and remove the rpm sensor.
Remove the clutch slave cylinder(now a good time to install a new one).
Disconnect the shifter rod(the support arm comes later when engine and gearbox are already lowered,is easier to get the pin of the support arm on the gearbox out then).
Support the gearbox(with a jack or a lifter if you use a car lift) and remove the gearbox support bolts from the chassis.
Use a flat pice of wood under the oilpan(important,otherwise the engine rests on the center steering linkage when it is lowered).
Lower slowly engine and gearbox(pay attention to the slave cylinder and the wiring loom that it won't be damaged.
Remove the pin of the shifter support arm.
loosene all bolts that connect gearbox and engine,including bolts for starter!All of them are Torx E12 exept the small ones on top of the gearbox,they are E11.A set of a few long and short extensions and joints for the ratchet is quite handy here!
After removing the bolts,pull the gearbox out(sometimes you need a large screwdriver to seperate engine and gearbox from each other and pay again attention that you don't destroy andy other parts or wires or lines while pulling it out.
Remove the pressure plate(tightening torque:25NM) and disc.
Change the throw out bearing(use the clutch grease on the sleeve),clean with brake cleaner new pressure plate and flywheel,if the flywheel has some heat spots,sand it a bit.Center the clutch disc and bolt down the new pressure plate(over cross,step by step),remove the locking plate from the pressure plate.
Put in gearbox and bolt down all removed parts.
See the steps for changing the clutch.
There is a special tool needed(BMW part no:114180 ) or grind down a long Torx T60 by yourself for it.
I do not use the flywheel lock tool for it to block the flywheel,but one of the bolts that hold the tranny in place and a screwdriver on the teeth for starter.
Tightening torque of the bolts:105NM
Rear main sealing change:
Remove engine oil.
Remove the bolts that hold the cover in place and pull out cover with Sealing.
The sealing is quite easy to push out with hammer and screw driver.
To get the new sealing in,use a piece of wood and hammer it careful in.
Use a new gasket for the housing.
Tighten the M6 bolts with 10NM,the M8 bolts with 22NM.
MKIV, Sirius Retrofit, BlueTooth Retro-Fit, E60 SSK, ACS Aluminum Pedals, 30% Window Tint, TEC CupHolder, 2X's Ultimate Cup Holders, Full LED upgrade (Thanks Timmay77), "M" Stitched Alcantara Shiftboot and E-Brake boot, CF Steering wheel trim (Thanks CGRM5), Euro-Dash (Thanks Raz and Timmay77), Hella TC-400 TPMS, Scosche BlueTooth 2.0 A2DP Adapter (Thanks btmlinedan) Euro "Safety kit" Fire Extinguisher and First Aid box (Thanks Slimmbones)
Dinan Exhaust cans (Thanks Timmay77 and btmlinedan), Brake duct mod with "Black Chrome" custom rings (Thanks Timmay77 and Diny), Dinan RSB with BeastPower brackets (Thanks Firehire, MFreakin5 and btmlinedan), Stoptech slotted rotors with StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads (Thanks Zeckhausen Racing Timmay77 and Lunker325)
Even if the rms is not leaking I always change it with a clutch change.Is way cheaper to do it when you are there than pulling the whole stuff againwhen it fails.An half an hour more work and 40$ material do not matter then anymore,anyway!