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Old 12th January 2010, 00:53   #1
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Chain tensioner change DIY with pics

Remove upper air filter box with MAFs and intake tube on Bank1.
Remove lower airfilter box,one screw(10mm socket) and the clamp for the tube of the intake funnel under the headlight.Push airbox towards engine to get it out.

Under the Vanos unit above the A/C compressor the screw for the tensioner is located(don't remember if it was 19mm or 21 mm socket,but you will see on the screw of the new tensioner which size it is).
A mirror is quite handy to get the socket on the screw head,otherwise feeling it with the hands works also well.
Put a towel or something like that on the A/C unit,a bit oil comes out when the tensioner is removed.
Bolt in the new tensioner and tighten it down with 50NM.
Assemble the air filter box again.
There will be a bit rattle from the chain for about 30 seconds until the tensioner is filled with oil.
Check for leaks and get yourself a beer







This is how the tensioner looks in all its glory,the aluminium crusher has to be ordered seperately.

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Old 12th January 2010, 18:34   #2
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The last pic shows how the tensioner has to assembled for installation.
The spring inside sometimes breaks and causes chain slap or even worse destruction as a few board members seem to have unfortunately experienced.

Costs about 150$...
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Old 12th January 2010, 19:07   #3
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Thanks for posting this. So all you need to change this is the chain tensioner itself, part No. 11311406261 + 1 crush washer Part No. 07119963355? Together they're like $103 from Tischer, that's not bad....
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Old 12th January 2010, 19:12   #4
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Yep,all that is needed.
Can save higher milage engines from expensive costs.Worth to consider,IMHO....
The spring aging also looses tension and rather changing it than having a broken chain guide or two....
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Old 12th January 2010, 19:35   #5
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Originally Posted by vantaam5 View Post
Yep,all that is needed.
Can save higher milage engines from expensive costs.Worth to consider,IMHO....
The spring aging also looses tension and rather changing it than having a broken chain guide or two....
Define "higher mileage", if you would please Is this something that should be changed at 75K? 250K? something else?

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Old 12th January 2010, 19:37   #6
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Nice write up.
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Old 12th January 2010, 19:46   #7
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Quote:
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Define "higher mileage", if you would please Is this something that should be changed at 75K? 250K? something else?

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...I knew it!
Personally I would start to consider change at about 100k or so.....
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Old 12th January 2010, 20:02   #8
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Quote:
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...I knew it!
Personally I would start to consider change at about 100k or so.....
Thanks!

Every part has a useful life - just trying to figure out what they are for some of the lesser known ones

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Old 12th January 2010, 22:46   #9
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Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement (M62TU) - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum

Looks like it's the same as the M62, but twice the price

My only tip is to get TWO crush washers. They are a one shot deal. If it doesn't make a good seal the first time you put it in, it will drip until you get another crush washer. Ask me how I know |[

Last edited by jburnham; 12th January 2010 at 22:46.
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Old 12th January 2010, 22:57   #10
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Looks like the same,but different part number than M62.
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