Hey guys, I've got a question about putting up the M5 on 4 points...
Now I've read all about the front jack point and rear diff method... Kind of makes me uneasy to jack from the rear diff. So much so that I went to a metal fabricator and had them build me a jack bar (idea from a member on this board) to sit between the rear jack points and allow jacking from the middle. Now I actually haven't gotten to use it yet...
Anyway, I talked to a fellow gear head about jacking up the M5 and he suggested a solution I have never heard of before... Has anyone tried jacking from the tow bar hitch? Apparently it's a strong point on the car and it's in the rear, so it might be a possible easy, structural sound way to get the car up on 4 points. Any thoughts?
My view is simple: If Doug Baker, with all of his knowledge of the E39 M5 and all of his auto industry experience, jacks his car up from the rear via the differential, then so should I. Just get the jack stands under the rear jack points quickly and don't leave the weight on the differential for longer than absolutely necessary.
--Peter
__________________ The Beast
2001 E39 M5 LeMans Blue with Black/Blue Sport Interior and Titanium Trim, ESS Supercharger, RMS In-Plenum Intercooler, RMS Plenum Plates and "Shorty" Velocity Stacks, Dinan TBs and Headers, CNS Catback Exhaust, Evosport High-Flow Cats, Dinan 3.45 Differential, GC Coilovers (550 Front/325 Rear), Dinan Front and Rear Swaybars, Dinan Monoballs, Dinan Wheels (18 x 9 Front/18 x 9.5 Rear), Bridgestone RE050 RFTs (275 Front/285 Rear), UUC EVO3 SSK with DSSR, Voltphreaks VPR-S40P Endurance Battery (14 lbs.), Setrab 16-Row Oil Cooler, Dinan Under-Plenum Heat Exchanger Removal Kit, Vorsteiner Double-Sided CF Hood with Open Vents, CA CSL-Style CF Trunk Lid, Zionsville Super Duty Cooling System, OKD Plasma Ignition Coils and Plug Boots, Smoked Hella Tailights, Clear-Corner Hella Euro Headlights, CA ACS-Style CF Front Splitters, Custom Stereo Using Stock HU, PLX Digital Gauge, V1/S1 Mounted in UGDO Location, Recaro Sportster CS Seats, Schroth 4-Pt Street Harnesses, and Various Other Bits and Pieces
Coming Soon!
Stoptech "Trophy" Brakes, TC Designs Roll Bar, TC Designs Rear Sway Bar Brackets, Aquamist HFS-6 Meth Injection with Custom CF/Aluminum Trunk-Mounted Fuel Cell Designed by Howerton Engineering, XRP HS-79 Hosing, Rogue Stage 3 280mm Clutch with JB Racing LTW Flywheel, Dinan Differential Subframe Reinforcement and Dinan Foglight Deletion Kit.
When the Motor Blows
Balanced and Blueprinted S62
Last edited by herrubermensch; 5th November 2009 at 02:10.
The Following User Says Thank You to herrubermensch For This Useful Post:
Yeah, I was about to bring up this subject as I plan to jack up all 4-points and have my wheels powder coated this winter.
I planned to use the differential to get the rear up but am not too sure how to get the front end up. I will be paying attention to this subject to see what people have to say.
__________________
Josiah
2001 Jet Black/Black Extended Leather w/ Brushed-Al trim ///M5 Engine: Supersprint Headers, Race Cats, X-pipe, and Magnum mufflers, Dinan CAI, Dinan high-flow MAF housings, Dinan Stage 4 Software, Zionsville Super Duty Radiator/Fan system, Mobil 1 15W-50, Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs, Odyssey PC925 lightweight battery Drivetrain: Dinan brake-duct kit, Ground Control suspension, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC short shift kit, RP Synchromax and 75W-140 gear oil, Rears in front (275s all 'round), PS2s Interior: ZHP shift knob w/ 540i leather shift boot, V1 w/ Stealth One, Blinder, hard-wired DC-to-AC inverter Exterior: custom sheet metal pork chops, Umnitza Predator Thinline demon eyes and HID foglights/low-beams, foglights and high-beams powered off battery, foglight retention with high-beams, matte-black kidney grille bezels/chrome slats
Soon: Illuminated ZHP shift knob mod, "Gulf" oil cooler, S.S. Nav/Radio knobs by member Diny, Black-faced cluster retrofit, powder-coat valve/timing chain covers, painted plenum cover, custom M stiching on shift and e-brake boots, custom M striping on seats (like the E36 M3 probably), Powder-coat OEM Style 65 wheels, rear anti-roll bar and BeastPower brackets
Also a 2001 Tahoe LT Supercharged 4x4 and 1978 Dodge Power Wagon W200.
raise the front from the side, slide a few pieces of wood under the tire, lower, then you will have enough space to slide your jacke(jack permiting) on the front brace. that way you can raise both sides of the car evenly at the same time.
as for the rear, i always put my jack on the fins portion of the diff and raise it up there. at the rate i work on my car if it was going to break, it would have by now. i dont have any issues, and dont really expect on it. (knocks on wood)
The Following User Says Thank You to razahyde For This Useful Post:
Yeah, I was about to bring up this subject as I plan to jack up all 4-points and have my wheels powder coated this winter.
I planned to use the differential to get the rear up but am not too sure how to get the front end up. I will be paying attention to this subject to see what people have to say.
Best method is to use two jacks: a small jack on one of the front side jacking points to lift the car up just enough to get the floor jack under the font center jacking point just behind the oil pan. Then use the floor jack to get the car up high enough to remove the small jack and put jack stands under each of the front side jacking points.
Of course, if your car sits high enough to get the floor jack under the front center jacking point without first using a small jack on the front side jacking points, great, just use the floor jack to elevate the car enough to fit jack stands under the side points. I use aluminum adapters between the side jacking points and the jackstand on each side. I bought the adapters from www.reverselogic.us. I also use the jack pads they sell as well when just using a jack and not putting the car up on jackstands.
--Peter
__________________ The Beast
2001 E39 M5 LeMans Blue with Black/Blue Sport Interior and Titanium Trim, ESS Supercharger, RMS In-Plenum Intercooler, RMS Plenum Plates and "Shorty" Velocity Stacks, Dinan TBs and Headers, CNS Catback Exhaust, Evosport High-Flow Cats, Dinan 3.45 Differential, GC Coilovers (550 Front/325 Rear), Dinan Front and Rear Swaybars, Dinan Monoballs, Dinan Wheels (18 x 9 Front/18 x 9.5 Rear), Bridgestone RE050 RFTs (275 Front/285 Rear), UUC EVO3 SSK with DSSR, Voltphreaks VPR-S40P Endurance Battery (14 lbs.), Setrab 16-Row Oil Cooler, Dinan Under-Plenum Heat Exchanger Removal Kit, Vorsteiner Double-Sided CF Hood with Open Vents, CA CSL-Style CF Trunk Lid, Zionsville Super Duty Cooling System, OKD Plasma Ignition Coils and Plug Boots, Smoked Hella Tailights, Clear-Corner Hella Euro Headlights, CA ACS-Style CF Front Splitters, Custom Stereo Using Stock HU, PLX Digital Gauge, V1/S1 Mounted in UGDO Location, Recaro Sportster CS Seats, Schroth 4-Pt Street Harnesses, and Various Other Bits and Pieces
Coming Soon!
Stoptech "Trophy" Brakes, TC Designs Roll Bar, TC Designs Rear Sway Bar Brackets, Aquamist HFS-6 Meth Injection with Custom CF/Aluminum Trunk-Mounted Fuel Cell Designed by Howerton Engineering, XRP HS-79 Hosing, Rogue Stage 3 280mm Clutch with JB Racing LTW Flywheel, Dinan Differential Subframe Reinforcement and Dinan Foglight Deletion Kit.
When the Motor Blows
Balanced and Blueprinted S62
The Following User Says Thank You to herrubermensch For This Useful Post:
Well, truth be told, lack of knowledge leads to fear... That's probably why I am uneasy about jacking from the diff. Folks with significantly more knowledge than I say it's okay and have in practice used the diff as a jack point, so in the end it's just plain old ignorance and fear I suppose (answering why I am uneasy). This car means the world to me so I treat it with kid gloves as much as possible (too much probably). Anyway, thanks for the heads up on the class 2 tow hitch, I imagine I would have done some serious damage to the car if I tried jacking from there. For those that care, there's a post showing a home brew jack bar that basically gives you a center jack point for the rear. I had a machine shop put together one based on the design (cost me about $150 with parts and labor) and I think it would work well as a means to get the car up on four points, albiet with unecessary hardware (given that jacking from the diff is okay). In the end I just wanted to pose the question about the tow hitch as a possible jack point and get the opinions of board members, since I didn't see any previous posts about it. Thanks for the advice all, I'll have to either use my jack bar or jack from the rear diff (and stop being hard headed).
So would it be safe to drive the front end onto Rhino ramps and then jack the rear from the differential? I have visions of my car rolling backwards over me as I attempt this.
No seriously, at least throw a 2x4 or something behind the rear tires just in case. Worst case scenario is you don't need them and you just helped contribute to the ***** of a tree. Oh wait, don't we love trees? Who cares, CHOCK the tires!
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